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Old Jul 29th 2013, 03:59 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by wilkson View Post
Dunno . Your motor might last forever or might shit it's pants next time you go out .
I have a mate doing a conrod swap at the moment 4000 race k's and the internally the motor looks perfect .
I would not worry about warranty personally . It's cheaper to do this mod than replace the motor or your health .
I would say a track day here and there is going to be OK but if you intend your bike to spend most of it's life on he track I would do it .
True if the bike causes me to crash at high speed it could be horrible.
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Old Jul 29th 2013, 04:50 PM   #32
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I Ride: Hyosung that is like my 1199
Suspension and conrods for sure
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Old Jul 29th 2013, 05:18 PM   #33
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for sure Ramrod craigslistbuyermn


Originally Posted by craigslistbuyermn View Post
Suspension and conrods for sure
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Old Jul 30th 2013, 12:42 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by Stw View Post
No doubt...But you didn't stipulate cost was an issue..you asked a general question.... This is why people buy the base bike if they gonna make it a track whore... you have instantly saved $5k for improvements... and $3.5k will get you sorted...
Has anyone tried just upgrading the springs in the suspension? Or is the valving that comes with the stock suspension just not that good?
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Old Jul 30th 2013, 01:23 PM   #35
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I Ride: 2013 Ducati Panigale R (Track), 2016 Yamaha R1 Anniversary Edition, 2013.5 KTM 450SX Factory
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Old Jul 30th 2013, 01:55 PM   #36
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I Ride: 2019 V4R on order, '13 1199R (sold), '07 Yamaha R1 (sold), '04 Yamaha R1 (first bike I owned, sold)
It's looking like I'm going to miss my first schuduled track day this Friday... Quick question, where can I find good tire warmers at?
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Old Jul 30th 2013, 03:14 PM   #37
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Capit is best for the 1199's tight front fender. Got mine from motomummy
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Old Jul 31st 2013, 05:13 AM   #38
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want another bike : put a 42 sprocket on the rear... cheapest speed to be found.. just did it in Le Mans and its the most dramatic result on anything i changed to the engine/power yet... allows you to shortshift so goes easy on the engine as well, whould you want that..

i would get the 'tracking/warranty' agreements form you dealer on paper. if he doesn't , swap conrods immediatly. If he does so, hard decision to make.
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Old Jul 31st 2013, 11:15 AM   #39
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I Ride: 2012 1199 Tricolore, 2007 Porsche GT3RS
I for one, have changed the springs both front and rear. One step softer on one side only forks, and 2 steps softer on the shock. My 2012 Tri was violently stiff over bumps. Along with softening the shock compression to fully open (softest setting, #31), and slightly reducing fork compression to #25, it finally seems to be tracking reasonably well over bumps. I am tempted to have the compression damping modified to allow further testing at even softer settings, and possibly one step softer still on the rear spring. This is all surprising to me in that I weigh 190 pounds, and would have thought the shock would be closer from the factory. I run the link on flat, as that is what is proper for a one-up bike used for canyons. The reference earlier to the "junk Ohlins" shock - could you be expand on that regarding why you rate it as such? Thanks in advance.
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Old Jul 31st 2013, 03:07 PM   #40
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This is good feedback. Which springs did the bike come with stock? That may help people to get a good starting point on suspension for the bike.

Originally Posted by HarmonyJim View Post
I for one, have changed the springs both front and rear. One step softer on one side only forks, and 2 steps softer on the shock. My 2012 Tri was violently stiff over bumps. Along with softening the shock compression to fully open (softest setting, #31), and slightly reducing fork compression to #25, it finally seems to be tracking reasonably well over bumps. I am tempted to have the compression damping modified to allow further testing at even softer settings, and possibly one step softer still on the rear spring. This is all surprising to me in that I weigh 190 pounds, and would have thought the shock would be closer from the factory. I run the link on flat, as that is what is proper for a one-up bike used for canyons. The reference earlier to the "junk Ohlins" shock - could you be expand on that regarding why you rate it as such? Thanks in advance.
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