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Old Mar 23rd 2014, 05:35 PM   #11
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the clutch bleed and it's seemingly never ending quest to suck in more air has been a known issue for many owners, from as far back as early 916 days (1994/5) - unbelievable how it has never been resolved.....

-- theories abound as to the cause....nobody has ever produced a definitive answer - i carry an 11mm open end wrench and a small shop rag...i've left the house many times with a limp lever and was always glad i had the wrench with me, so i didn't have to run back home to take care of it - motion-pro just started selling a mini bleed wrench that looks small enough to be carried easily and it has a nifty 1 way valve that prevents fluid from going all over the place while bleeding

-- while bleeding the clutch sucks(it is routine for me now, essentially prior to each ride), i guess i have "written it off" as part and parcel for the brand - there have been all kinds of attempts at a fix for it:

-replace slave (sc)
-replace master
-wrap the clutch line
-pin hole in rubber boot on lever at mc to stop supposed air being pushed or sucked into system
-different fluids
-stop the spinning rod in sc to prevent fluid boil
-spacer plate for sc to allow more air to cool things off (prevent fluid boil)
-new o-ring on sc to stop its deterioration there-by contaminating fluid (it was thought by someone that the blackness was the breakdown of the o-ring)

-- seriously, i have "heard it all".....i hoped all along there would be a simple solution, or Ducati would have done something......evidently not - hopefully something will eventually come of it, but in the mean time an 11mm seems to answer it

-- until something truly definitive comes along, the new mini bleeder from motion-pro is something to have fun with, so.....i've given up
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Old Mar 23rd 2014, 10:20 PM   #12
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RD16RR is dead on. I bled mine at least 15 times in the first six months. Then the slave finally got all 'crunchy' around 22k miles, meaning the piston was proper fucked and ready to strand me. Rather than deal with a wonky new (free) replacement, I went with an Oberon and haven't had to bleed since.

I did a write up of it, but can't find it. It took about an hour and cost about $150. Definitely worth the time and $$.
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Old Mar 24th 2014, 02:05 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by AntiHero View Post
RD16RR is dead on. I bled mine at least 15 times in the first six months. Then the slave finally got all 'crunchy' around 22k miles, meaning the piston was proper fucked and ready to strand me. Rather than deal with a wonky new (free) replacement, I went with an Oberon and haven't had to bleed since.

I did a write up of it, but can't find it. It took about an hour and cost about $150. Definitely worth the time and $$.
+1 - I'm still bleeding before every longish ride, but I had an Oberon on my SF and will eventually get tired of bleeding and get another one and hopefully retire my Gatorade bottle, plastic tube and tiny wrench. At least until I need to change the fluid and do my brakes.
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Old Mar 24th 2014, 09:16 AM   #14
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I would agree; it appears to be the slave cylinder. I have had mine replaced twice, which helps for a while; but the design ultimately fails again within a couple of thousand miles. I suppose the next step is to replace it with an aftermarket part as noted above.
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Old Mar 24th 2014, 10:02 AM   #15
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I replaced the OEM slave with an Oberon and I still have to bleed it frequently.
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Old Mar 24th 2014, 10:09 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by xpercad View Post
I replaced the OEM slave with an Oberon and I still have to bleed it frequently.
Oh well, there goes that idea. Maybe it makes sense to get data from multiple people and we can compare notes. I never have to bleed mine at the slave. When mine gets spongy all it takes is one "press and crack " at the master and it's good to go for a few more weeks.
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Old Mar 24th 2014, 12:30 PM   #17
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I haven't too many issues. I have an CNC SC and I replaced the MC once for other reasons. I also switched to a different brake fluid. The RBF600 MOTUL stuff works great at higher temps.
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Old Mar 24th 2014, 12:48 PM   #18
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I have not bled mine yet, when I had to start pumping it up to get some lever, I loosened up the cap on the resivior and that took care of it. I think the problem is with the bellows in the cap. It is too still, the resivior is too small, and it's cavitateing. That's what it looks like to me anyway.
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Old Mar 24th 2014, 01:22 PM   #19
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Without using the "h" word, it seems that air bubbles are caused by boiling oil.

Mine was worlds better after changing the stock fluid to Motul.

Ziptying the lever to the handlebars overnight really works, been doing it before every trackday.

Also, my tech told me to tap the line with a small wrench to get the bubbles to move up, he noticed that conventional bleeding would not get rid of all the air.
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Old Mar 24th 2014, 02:15 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by fireman1251 View Post
Without using the "h" word, it seems that air bubbles are caused by boiling oil.

Mine was worlds better after changing the stock fluid to Motul.

Ziptying the lever to the handlebars overnight really works, been doing it before every trackday.

Also, my tech told me to tap the line with a small wrench to get the bubbles to move up, he noticed that conventional bleeding would not get rid of all the air.
So you just pull the clutch all the way in against the bar and ziptie it overnight? I'll try that. I have a new bottle of Motul too, but haven't had time to put it in yet. Will try that as well.
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