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Old Aug 3rd 2015, 07:12 PM   #1
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Changing Ohlins fork springs

I am seeing if there is a write up on this, the search failed... What is the difference on the electronic suspenion VS the FGRT forks?

Wanting to swap springs, and I have new springs and the cap removal tool.. Any help would be appreciated.

bike is a 2012 1199S.
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Old Aug 4th 2015, 06:31 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by jdgun View Post
I am seeing if there is a write up on this, the search failed... What is the difference on the electronic suspenion VS the FGRT forks?

Wanting to swap springs, and I have new springs and the cap removal tool.. Any help would be appreciated.

bike is a 2012 1199S.
As a note, I think most Ohlins reps will do spring swaps for free trackside, it's only a couple minutes of work if you have the right tools. If that's an option, I'd recommend that.

But if it's not an option....

I did a spring swap on my base model with 30mm cartridges, which should be the same as the FGRT forks. I'd imagine the electronics are the same as well, may just be a matter of removing the servo's first (but check, because I'm only speculating).

One thing that you should have is a spring compressor. They aren't under a whole lot of compression with the preload backed out, so you *can* do a spring swap without one, but it's not pretty, especially when you're dealing with $2300 forks. Looks like Race-tech has one that will get the job done for $20
. I would go with that. You probably don't need the more expensive foot operated ones. if you're only using it once in a blue moon or here's one that a guy made himself, although it's probably more than $20 in parts if you don't have it handy.



Important points:
1. Loosen the upper triple clamp from the fork tube before trying to remove the cap. Otherwise it is squeezed in there and you'll never get it out.

2. Once you get the cap off, the cartridge is there for you to access. There is a nut internally you have to hold (I think 17 or 19mm?) while you turn the preload nut. It is a very tight fit, you may have to grind down the sides of the wrench you use to get it to fit. With the internal nut held , you will release the spring instead of backing off preload. Try to put a bit of pressure on the end cap as you reach the end of the thread to avoid damaging the thread - the spring will release with a few pounds of pressure (boing!)

Last edited by Ductard; Aug 4th 2015 at 08:32 AM.
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Old Aug 4th 2015, 08:30 AM   #3
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Thats the issue, as i did my own swaps on the FGRT fork, very easy without tools..
But with the electronics, there is more than just loosening the fork cap, pushing the spring & spacer down to get to the 17mm wrench in there and taking the cap off.
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Old Aug 4th 2015, 08:39 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by jdgun View Post
Thats the issue, as i did my own swaps on the FGRT fork, very easy without tools..
But with the electronics, there is more than just loosening the fork cap, pushing the spring & spacer down to get to the 17mm wrench in there and taking the cap off.
Hmmm...I always thought the servo's just screwed into the top where they could turn the rebound/compression adjusters, so once you screwed those out it would be the same operation....

But according to this thread on the 899 forum, it seems to be more complicated than that.

Sorry I can't be of more help. Interested to hear how it's done though.
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Old Aug 4th 2015, 08:50 AM   #5
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I wonder if Jarel can help via PM or try calling Ducati of Omaha. I think they're the Ohlins specialists.
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Old Aug 4th 2015, 04:20 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by EnigmaRR View Post
I wonder if Jarel can help via PM or try calling Ducati of Omaha. I think they're the Ohlins specialists.
Yeah missed their shop hours to call, but quoted 2 hours flat rate from one dealer $210), 2 hours plus a set-up charge from another ($276), and $76.47 if I pull the forks and mail them to another shop..
You would think there would be an online how to somewhere, or someone on the forum who has done this that could chime in...
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Old Aug 4th 2015, 05:32 PM   #7
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Changing Ohlins fork springs

Originally Posted by jdgun View Post
Yeah missed their shop hours to call, but quoted 2 hours flat rate from one dealer $210), 2 hours plus a set-up charge from another ($276), and $76.47 if I pull the forks and mail them to another shop..

You would think there would be an online how to somewhere, or someone on the forum who has done this that could chime in...

For a spring swap? Ridiculous. You can get a full fork service done for $200.

I have no idea what it takes to remove those servos, but I've had spring swaps done for me in 10 minutes trackside for free (which according to the Ohlins dealer that did it, Ohlins requires them to do for free). I doubt Ohlins would put forks on a production bike that would be exempt from that, or be so onerous on the dealer if they had to do a swap.
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Old Aug 4th 2015, 06:16 PM   #8
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Looking like I am going to pull the forks and ship them 4 hours up the road to have this done.. Will still be under $140 in the end, but still does not get me the info i want..
The other option is wait till the next weekend and hope to get the track side rep to swap them at the track (no guarantee).
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Old Aug 4th 2015, 06:55 PM   #9
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It's really not that hard, but it's also one of those things that I would never recommend you tackle yourself until you've watched someone else competent do it. You don't want to F up your forks, and there are lots of things that go wrong in this process to F them up, especially if you don't have the right tools and environment. That's why you won't generally find "how-to" resources on this, no one wants to publish it and then have you try to blame them when you F it up! Ha ha! For example, one little fiber off of a shop rag that get on your spring can then migrate into the oil and find its way right into your shim stack. That's not even to mention how many times the fork cap gets installed incorrectly on the cartridge and the adjuster no longer functions.
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Old Aug 5th 2015, 06:37 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by jarelj View Post
It's really not that hard, but it's also one of those things that I would never recommend you tackle yourself until you've watched someone else competent do it. You don't want to F up your forks, and there are lots of things that go wrong in this process to F them up, especially if you don't have the right tools and environment. That's why you won't generally find "how-to" resources on this, no one wants to publish it and then have you try to blame them when you F it up! Ha ha! For example, one little fiber off of a shop rag that get on your spring can then migrate into the oil and find its way right into your shim stack. That's not even to mention how many times the fork cap gets installed incorrectly on the cartridge and the adjuster no longer functions.
Understandable... Will just pay someone for now. Maybe i can "borrow" the service manual on the forks so i can do this myself in the future as needed.
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