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Old Aug 20th 2015, 04:02 PM   #1
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GMD Chassis Measurement #'s - 1199 Pani

Hi All,

I thought these geometry numbers might be useful to people...

I got a 4th place finish last weekend, which GMD computrack gives you a 50% off of a chassis measurement for an "almost on the podium" contingency.

I know what some of these measurements mean (rake, trail, etc.) some of them I have no clue what the measurement is, but I don't know what *good* numbers are for any of them.

I'm going to send them to my *regular* suspension guy and see what he thinks, but feel free to chime in if anybody has anything to say about these.

The good news is my frame is straight
Attached Thumbnails
GMD Chassis Measurement #'s - 1199 Pani-gmd-computrak-measurements-1199-panigale-redacted-p1.jpg   GMD Chassis Measurement #'s - 1199 Pani-gmd-computrak-measurements-1199-panigale-redacted-p2.jpg  
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Old Aug 20th 2015, 05:04 PM   #2
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Good info showing front wheel not set in the center of the forks - steering axis or rear wheel an easy a fix machining spacers, wheel set to the right side of the bike
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Old Aug 21st 2015, 02:46 AM   #3
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Some people think the GMD "sweet numbers" are crap, some people swear by them.

Personally, I love them. I have had every race bike initially setup by GMD using their Computrak computer system since 2008. I always love the way the bike feels afterwards.

From there, we make small changes based upon the track or conditions or tire changes, etc. But I always initially have GMD setup the overall geometry on my bike.
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Old Aug 21st 2015, 04:35 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Chaotic View Post
Some people think the GMD "sweet numbers" are crap, some people swear by them.

Personally, I love them. I have had every race bike initially setup by GMD using their Computrak computer system since 2008. I always love the way the bike feels afterwards.

From there, we make small changes based upon the track or conditions or tire changes, etc. But I always initially have GMD setup the overall geometry on my bike.
Which shop do you go to, Fort Lauderdale or ATL?
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Old Aug 21st 2015, 06:01 AM   #5
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Great info! I think I should get mine checked, I've had a couple of nasty crashes on the track this season. Still healing two separated shoulders from the most recent one.
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Old Aug 21st 2015, 07:46 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Ljuice26 View Post
Which shop do you go to, Fort Lauderdale or ATL?
I use Kent at GMD in ATL.
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Old Aug 24th 2015, 09:28 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by wfoduck View Post
Great info! I think I should get mine checked, I've had a couple of nasty crashes on the track this season. Still healing two separated shoulders from the most recent one.
Hope you heal up soon. I heard you had a nasty spill in T9.

I'll see if I come up with any more 4th place finishes. I gave my other cert to my garage mate but there are a couple more rounds this year to go.

The bad news for all of us is that GMD didn't seem to think there was anything they could do if the bike wasn't straight...

But that could lend some credence to the whole "we make the steering stops so they break off" thing.

Their "frame straightening" service is expensive (~$500), but the cheapest I've seen a monocoque for was ~$2,500...and I think that was a salvage "frame" -that might be bent to begin with...
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Old Aug 24th 2015, 09:33 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Chaotic View Post
Some people think the GMD "sweet numbers" are crap, some people swear by them.

Personally, I love them. I have had every race bike initially setup by GMD using their Computrak computer system since 2008. I always love the way the bike feels afterwards.

From there, we make small changes based upon the track or conditions or tire changes, etc. But I always initially have GMD setup the overall geometry on my bike.
Yeah, I've heard the "sweet numbers" are subject to personal preference, style, etc... A lot of people talk like GMD's method puts a little too much science in the art, but I agree that a chassis measurement is a good place to start (especially at half price )

It did point immediately to a swingarm angle issue for me.

I lengthened the shock by 2 turns, rode a session, and got my drive traction back

...but I felt like I lost a little feel in the front end, so I took it back one turn and felt like it was a good compromise. Good drive traction, not too wheelie prone, pretty good front end feel.
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Old Aug 25th 2015, 04:36 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Ductard View Post
Hope you heal up soon. I heard you had a nasty spill in T9.

I'll see if I come up with any more 4th place finishes. I gave my other cert to my garage mate but there are a couple more rounds this year to go.

The bad news for all of us is that GMD didn't seem to think there was anything they could do if the bike wasn't straight...

But that could lend some credence to the whole "we make the steering stops so they break off" thing.

Their "frame straightening" service is expensive (~$500), but the cheapest I've seen a monocoque for was ~$2,500...and I think that was a salvage "frame" -that might be bent to begin with...
Thanks ductard. Beware of the r&g steering stops, they bend both my forks on my first crash. What is the length of your shock now? Glad you're getting it sorted out
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Old Aug 25th 2015, 08:12 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by wfoduck View Post
Thanks ductard. Beware of the r&g steering stops, they bend both my forks on my first crash. What is the length of your shock now? Glad you're getting it sorted out
Yeah, I saw that the day of your crash. I'm not sure if that was inevitable or not though, you went down pretty hard.

After relocating my brake and clutch reservoirs, I was able to put my clip-ons where I wanted them vs. where they had to go to keep those from hitting. In the process, I got them where the damper didn't bind at the extremes (highly recommended mod for the cost of some tygon tubing, and some scrap aluminum or a purpose made bracket).

So long story short, I might just leave things as they stand. IMHO, no reason to get a new lower because the stops will be toast the first crash I'm in. Rather than getting a new lower for ~$600, I'd probably get some adjustable offset triples for ~$1000 if it comes to that. The ones I saw had replaceable steering stops that bolted in.
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