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Old Feb 24th 2016, 10:21 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by Styler View Post
Where exactly is that sensor? Pics please
Start tracing the wire from the rear brake caliper on the right side of the bike. Its right there. I'll get a pic this weekend if the ECU is back and I take it to the dealer.
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Old Feb 24th 2016, 11:54 AM   #82
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Sorry I misread your question. You should be all set whith that you removed.
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Old Feb 24th 2016, 03:41 PM   #83
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Question Race rear-sets; disconnecting rear brake wiring

By removing the entire cable from the brake switch to the plug on the right side panel one eliminates the issue of the error and engine light on the dash as a result of the rear brake because there is no signal coming from a brake switch when one depresses the rear brake. That said, the error and engine light come on as soon as one applies the front brake.
Is there something else I have to do to eliminate the signal coming from the front brake switch? That would be logical.
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Old Feb 24th 2016, 03:56 PM   #84
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Question Woodcraft Rear-set Foot Controls, GP-Shift

I installed these today. It took some time and plenty of thread-lock; however, the job is straight-forward and mostly done (I think).
I do have to fine-tune the toe piece on the shift lever once I get the tail-section body work and foam seat pad on, and I appear to have one major issue that I need some help with.

It appears that I can shift from neutral to 6th and back to neutral; but, for the life of me, I cannot shift from neutral into first. The bike is on a rear paddock stand and I rotate the wheel to free up the transmission as I shift through the gears; however, this has no effect on my efforts to shift into first.

I checked with woodcraft without solution; however, Waylon was patient and helpful.
  1. I have the correct kit;
  2. It appears to be assembled correctly; and,
  3. The shift rod and the shift lever are at a 90 degree angle as per instructions.
Any ideas?

EDIT: All I had to do was lengthen the shift rod mechanism. I had it set up for the same length as OEM; however, it needed to be a little longer for the GP shift. Job done.
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Last edited by Styler; Feb 25th 2016 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Feb 24th 2016, 04:29 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by Styler View Post
By removing the entire cable from the brake switch to the plug on the right side panel one eliminates the issue of the error and engine light on the dash as a result of the rear brake because there is no signal coming from a brake switch when one depresses the rear brake. That said, the error and engine light come on as soon as one applies the front brake.
Is there something else I have to do to eliminate the signal coming from the front brake switch? That would be logical.
Just unplug one of the wires from the switch.
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Old Feb 26th 2016, 07:07 PM   #86
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Finishing the brake light wiring.

Before I started with the removal of the charcoal canister and radiator fan, I wanted to address the error and engine light I was getting when I used the front brake.
After pulling the tail lights, shrink wrapping their connector plug on the main wiring loom (post #72, previous page) and removing the OEM foot controls along with the rear brake switch (post #84, first pic) and all of the wiring to the side panel, the next step was to:
  1. Seal off the plug that connected it to the main wiring loom with some heat shrink wrap (first pic); and,
  2. Disconnect one of the wires running from the front brake sensor where it connect to the wiring loom(second pic, before applying heat shrink wrap), thereby eliminating any signal to the ecu from the front brake switch and thus the error code.
Thanks for the direction guys. Now, no error code or engine light when the front brake is applied! Perfect.
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Last edited by Styler; Feb 26th 2016 at 07:16 PM.
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Old Feb 26th 2016, 07:39 PM   #87
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Removal of Charcoal Canister

After determining that my shop/man-cave would not fill with fumes after removing the charcoal canister, I followed Antihero’s instructions for its removal: http://ducati1299.com/guides/12972-h...r-removal.html (Thanks Dennis).

Before starting the job, I picked up some vacuum caps (first pic), fuel line and plastic hose connectors (second pic) at the local auto parts store.

Pulling the charcoal canister off and its mounting frame was relatively easy, with the exception of rounding one the three monkey metal Allen head bolts of the OEM fasteners attaching the plastic canister tray to the engine. I sealed up the canister in a plastic bag for safe keeping, preventing any fumes being released into whatever place this will end up being stored (third pic).

Next up was to seal the vacuum hose with one of the caps. Not that it really is needed, I took the extra step of using safety wire to ensure the cap stayed in place. I then used the white plastic hose connector to lengthen the overflow hose from the tank, making sure that it is long enough to dump any fuel away from the header pipes (fourth and fifth pics). You will notice that the hose is zip-tied to the other breather hose that emptied into the black plastic shroud housing the radiator fan (which is pulled away from the shroud in the pic, prior to pulling the radiator fan).
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Last edited by Styler; Feb 27th 2016 at 06:38 AM.
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Old Feb 26th 2016, 08:14 PM   #88
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Removal of the Radiator Fan and Shroud

There are several CMRA sanctioned track-day events at my local track this summer and their regulations are a little stiffer then the regular track-day events; such that if one wants to run in the expert track-day session then a catch pan is required. So… since I would like to try the expert or “race” class after I get used to the GP-shift pattern and every other new part of the track bike, I have to install the optional belly pan with the track body work, which means pulling the radiator fan.

First step is to unbolt the plastic shroud that holds the radiator fan in place. There are three Allen head bolts holding the front of the plastic shroud to the lower radiator; one at the top of each side of the radiator and one at the bottom of the radiator. There is supposed to be another at the back of the plastic shroud, near the oil drain plug; but mine had vibrated loose somewhere along the way.
Anyway, removal of the lower and upper right bolts are straight forward; however, removal of the upper left bolt requires removal of the plastic battery tray, which then allows one to get an Allen key or socket in there. The plastic radiator fan shroud pops right out.

After pulling the radiator fan and its plastic shroud, be sure to reinstall the upper two bolts, which are required to keep the radiator secure. And, be sure to use the black metal washer and steel washer/spacer that come out of each of the top two mounting points on the plastic shroud. Otherwise, the bolts will be too long to secure the radiator properly.

Unplug the wire supplying power to the fan at the connector where it meets the bike and use the fan plug that comes in the “Racing Electrical Connector Kit,” part number 96580011A. (See the first pic in post #75, previous page; it’s the oval black plug with the yellow rubber seal in the middle.) Once the plug is installed, everything is tucked away on a plastic hook of sorts. (See first pic, below.)
With the radiator shroud pulled the bike is visually much lighter (see last two pics); but truth be told, I think that between the removal of the charcoal canister and the radiator fan and shroud, perhaps two pounds have been shed. It could be more; but I do not have an accurate enough scale to be sure.

If we go with 2lbs, then my estimate is that the bike will be coming in around 378 lbs with two US gallons of fuel.

Next up, I should have my Lithium battery delivered some time next week when I am away on business, so next weekend is the time to install that and drop another 3.5 lbs or so.
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Last edited by Styler; Feb 27th 2016 at 06:42 AM.
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Old Feb 27th 2016, 04:03 AM   #89
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Have you installed the smog block off plates? I was wondering as to how you plugged the hoses or inlets in the air box? My plates are on but I haven't got to the last step yet.
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Old Feb 27th 2016, 05:03 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by wfoduck View Post
Have you installed the smog block off plates? I was wondering as to how you plugged the hoses or inlets in the air box? My plates are on but I haven't got to the last step yet.

Not to hijack the thread. I installed block offs. I capped the solenoid with 1/2" rubber caps and left it plugged up and in its position to keep from having a CEL. Got caps off eBay for little of nothing. Hope this helps
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