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Old Jul 16th 2017, 05:28 PM   #11
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Got any parts laying on the ground still ?



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Old Jul 16th 2017, 06:32 PM   #12
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Sorry Nola, Didn't mean to rain on your post. Im sitting in a fricken airport bored shitless. Anyhow, rrgermanlv, who did the QC conversion? Not you?. With the nut torqued to spec, and it assembled properly, you will not get sprocket carrier movement. Now if you did not notice this before then you may have a carrier/flange depth mismatch which i also have posted before. This is there the flange is shorter in the stack than the carrier and when torqued, the spacer will wear a nice groove in the back of the sprocket carrier (see pic) No you will for sure have play in the assembly but still not as much as what is in your video. Im guessing that the cush drives were never removed from the stock flange and went into the sprocket carrier as an assembly by whoever did it and no one bothered to look at compatibility between the carrier and the flange. That spacer keeps the whole assembly from walking itself into the swingarm. You can see the spacer without removing anything by looking behind the sprocket carrier.
Attached Thumbnails
Is this normal? Rear sprocket "wiggle"-img_0665.jpg   Is this normal? Rear sprocket "wiggle"-img_1433.jpg  
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Old Jul 16th 2017, 07:16 PM   #13
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What endo is talking about (#6):

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Old Jul 16th 2017, 10:45 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by endodoc View Post
Sorry Nola, Didn't mean to rain on your post. Im sitting in a fricken airport bored shitless. Anyhow, rrgermanlv, who did the QC conversion? Not you?. With the nut torqued to spec, and it assembled properly, you will not get sprocket carrier movement. Now if you did not notice this before then you may have a carrier/flange depth mismatch which i also have posted before. This is there the flange is shorter in the stack than the carrier and when torqued, the spacer will wear a nice groove in the back of the sprocket carrier (see pic) No you will for sure have play in the assembly but still not as much as what is in your video. Im guessing that the cush drives were never removed from the stock flange and went into the sprocket carrier as an assembly by whoever did it and no one bothered to look at compatibility between the carrier and the flange. That spacer keeps the whole assembly from walking itself into the swingarm. You can see the spacer without removing anything by looking behind the sprocket carrier.
I didn't do anything BUT I remember now when I bought the bike they replaced my sprocket because it had some rust...

I'm gonna have to inspect it and see what's going on...

Last edited by rrgermanlv; Jul 16th 2017 at 11:57 PM.
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Old Jul 17th 2017, 07:54 AM   #15
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I just bought this sprocket on ebay. it is a take off from a bike with 0 miles... if I replace the one I have right now with this one, will I have everything OEM? Does my flange look OEM? (hoping the spacer is still there since I haven't taken the stuff apart yet)



I am just confused because my actual carrier has 6 nuts around it (not the flange ones) and the pictures I've seen of the OEM ones don't have those... what will happen then or that's just part of that "aftermarket" carrier that I have and has nothing to do with the flange?

Oh.. and how about my chain? I hope it works with the OEM carrier... I dont know if that has been replaced with another one (shorter/bigger/IDK!?) :-/

Last edited by rrgermanlv; Jul 17th 2017 at 07:58 AM.
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Old Jul 17th 2017, 09:07 AM   #16
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This is not an area you want things to go wrong. Your stock chain pitch is 525. If that is a stock steel Ducati sprocket/integrated carrier then it is a 525 pitch. What you have on the bike now is not stock. You look to have a stock flange, flange/cush drive nuts. I cannot see the cush drives themselves but will assume they are stock. The sprocket and the carrier that you now have on your bike is not stock. You have a quick change carrier and sprocket so you can change the sprocket without pulling the flange and carrier. I have no idea what the pitch is of what you now have. If it was changed from a 525 to a 520 then that sprocket you are looking at will not work. The play you have in the drive system right now is not something I would ride on. You need to pull the assembly and see whats going on before you start buying stuff.
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Old Jul 17th 2017, 09:43 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by endodoc View Post
This is not an area you want things to go wrong. Your stock chain pitch is 525. If that is a stock steel Ducati sprocket/integrated carrier then it is a 525 pitch. What you have on the bike now is not stock. You look to have a stock flange, flange/cush drive nuts. I cannot see the cush drives themselves but will assume they are stock. The sprocket and the carrier that you now have on your bike is not stock. You have a quick change carrier and sprocket so you can change the sprocket without pulling the flange and carrier. I have no idea what the pitch is of what you now have. If it was changed from a 525 to a 520 then that sprocket you are looking at will not work. The play you have in the drive system right now is not something I would ride on. You need to pull the assembly and see whats going on before you start buying stuff.
The one I bought is OEM Ducati. It's the one that comes originally with the bike


It was $25 (I believe they go for about $120ish) so I figured I would take a chance and buy it in case I need it. But yes, I want to inspect my current setup to see what's going on.

I figured if my chain is still the same specs as the OEM and my flange is OEM, with that sprocket I bought I could probably put everything back the way it was supposed to be, just like this:


These are some random pics of my current set up (it's dirty as hell) in case it helps identify if I still have OEM flange/cush drives. I will take pics of everything once I take it apart


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Old Jul 17th 2017, 01:19 PM   #18
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Undo the main sprocket nut and remove the QC carrier and sprocket as one, there should be a thin washer under the main sprocket nut and when you remove the sprocket carrier and sprocket, a spacer should be lurking underneath. Leave that in place. Using a vice, clamp the rear sprocket (best to use soft aluminium jaws in the vice or plenty of soft rags) and with the correct size allen key or bit, insert this into the back of each cush drive rubber. Whilst holding the rubber, use a socket wrench to tighten the sprocket carrier nuts to 44Nm (as quoted). This should draw the two together. As I said in a previous post, if this does not work you will need to check your sprocket carrier and that the cush drive rubbers are seating properly (there should be a lip that they sit up against, machined into the QC carrier to stop them being pulled through).

If you are not confident to carry out this work I would strongly advise you to seek professional help or ask your dealer to check it. I would NOT recommend you ride the bike in its current condition.
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Old Jul 17th 2017, 01:29 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by rrgermanlv View Post
I just bought this sprocket on ebay. it is a take off from a bike with 0 miles... if I replace the one I have right now with this one, will I have everything OEM? Does my flange look OEM? (hoping the spacer is still there since I haven't taken the stuff apart yet)



I am just confused because my actual carrier has 6 nuts around it (not the flange ones) and the pictures I've seen of the OEM ones don't have those... what will happen then or that's just part of that "aftermarket" carrier that I have and has nothing to do with the flange?

Oh.. and how about my chain? I hope it works with the OEM carrier... I dont know if that has been replaced with another one (shorter/bigger/IDK!?) :-/
At the risk of repeating others on this thread, your bike is currently fitted with a QUICK CHANGE carrier and NOT the OEM sprocket and cover. This set-up allows you to remove/change a sprocket without removing the whole assembly. You can fit the OEM carrier you just purchased if you wish, but you will have to split the sprocket cover from the QC carrier, remove the cush drive rubbers and re-fit them to the OEM sprocket, then re attach and torque up the sprocket cover and lastly re-fit the whole assembly back on the bike. Why not just check the torque of your sprocket cover nuts as explained? You dont necessarily need to be spending money. I would advise you to download a copy of the workshop manual as well, so you can better understand the processes involved. You can obtain a free copy here:

Workshop Manuals
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Old Jul 17th 2017, 01:32 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by topolino View Post
At the risk of repeating others on this thread, your bike is currently fitted with a QUICK CHANGE carrier and NOT the OEM sprocket and cover. This set-up allows you to remove/change a sprocket without removing the whole assembly. You can fit the OEM carrier you just purchased if you wish, but you will have to split the sprocket cover from the QC carrier, remove the cush drive rubbers and re-fit them to the OEM sprocket, then re attach and torque up the sprocket cover and lastly re-fit the whole assembly back on the bike. Why not just check the torque of your sprocket cover nuts as explained? You dont necessarily need to be spending money. I would advise you to download a copy of the workshop manual as well, so you can better understand the processes involved. You can obtain a free copy here:

Workshop Manuals
Yes, it makes sense what you say BUT I don't feel confident now with that set up... it didn't use to wiggle before and now it's doing it after probably a year and a half.. maybe something broke? I need to inspect it and make a decision I guess
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