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-   -   Tuneboy cruise, QS, blipper and iPhone app lessons learnt (http://ducatiforum.com/ducati-1199/29177-tuneboy-cruise-qs-blipper-iphone-app-lessons-learnt.html)

tteitei Jul 28th 2017 08:30 AM

Tuneboy cruise, QS, blipper and iPhone app lessons learnt
 
Hi Guys,

I have installed the tuneboy tune (V6), cruise, quick shifter and modified Aux switch for the cruise control (found on the 1299) on my 1199S. I also have the iPhone app working. Here are some answers to some questions I've noticed on various tuneboy threads;

Aux button use for cruise control
This is the +/- button found standard on the 1299 but absent on the 1199. This needs to be modified for use with the cruise control by adding a resistor and some wiring changes and then needs to be connected to the front O2 sensor. It will not work as standard on the 1299 as far as I know (could be wrong about this). I purchased this switch (Domino brand) from Wayne which he modified for me so it came with the right wiring and connector. Here is an excerpt of an email from Wayne explaining the modification required;

The pins on the Ducati O2 sensor plug are numbered 1,2,3,4
1 = signal.
2 = ground
3 = 12v

My adapter loom has a 10k and 2.4k resistor (from JayCar electronics).
The buttons from Domino have brown, green and white wires.
Brown is common to both buttons, this goes to pin 1 (signal)
White goes to pin 2 (ground), pin 2 is also connected to one side of the 2.4k resistor.
green connects to the other side of the 2.4k resistor, this side or the resistor also connects to one side of the 10k resistor.
The other side of the 10k resistor connects to pin 3 (12v)

The resistors act as a voltage divider so the point between the two resistors is about 2.7v
When the nudge up button is pushed it connects the signal wire to the 2.7v, when the nudge down is pushed it connects the signal to ground.

iPhone app
You will need to provide the UDID number of your phone to Wayne as his app has not yet been uploaded to the app store so he is manually enabling test users. You need to connect your iPhone to your PC and get the UDID number. Also I found that to get the app to communicate with the ECU, the Innovate device needs to be connected and the bike switched on before you see any response from the app itself. This threw me initially as I expected some connection information when I selected the tuneboy wifi network and I did not see the Wifi symbol showing at the top status line on the phone, it still showed the LTE signal status even though its connected via WiFi so I thought it wasn't connecting properly.

Quickshifter/blipper
Appear to be working correctly but could be improved with some tweaking. Sometimes the upshifts in the lower gears at mid revs is a bit jerky but similar to what I was experiencing with the standard QS. Sometimes its smooth. The blipper is working well and I am finding the downshift pressure a little hard but will try readjusting this in the software. Also it is not necessary to re-download the tune map again when enabling the QS or adjusting the Cruise options. You just need to go to the config page (after the mitsubishi program has read the map from the ECU), make the selections and exit the page. The default setting Wayne advised I set up the QS initially at were;

QS kill time - 5mm from the left
QS pressure - kill just to the right of the mark shown on the slider
Blip pressure - blip pressure slide just to the left of the mark

I will try increasing the QS kill time to see if it will reduce the jerkiness in the lower gears but I'm not sure this is correct (waiting on a response from Wayne).

Cruise control options
I selected the option 'nudge buttons with resume function' which is found on the config page of the mitsubishi program. This option enables the down button on the Aux switch to act as a resume feature, similar to a car cruise control. Also note the +ve button now replaces the cruise control set function that the start button used to perform. Pressing the start button only enables cruise control when this option is selected.

Regards,

Yoshi

tadashi Jul 28th 2017 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tteitei (Post 288644)
Hi Guys,

I have installed the tuneboy tune (V6), cruise, quick shifter and modified Aux switch for the cruise control (found on the 1299) on my 1199S. I also have the iPhone app working. Here are some answers to some questions I've noticed on various tuneboy threads;

Aux button use for cruise control
This is the +/- button found standard on the 1299 but absent on the 1199. This needs to be modified for use with the cruise control by adding a resistor and some wiring changes and then needs to be connected to the front O2 sensor. It will not work as standard on the 1299 as far as I know (could be wrong about this). I purchased this switch (Domino brand) from Wayne which he modified for me so it came with the right wiring and connector. Here is an excerpt of an email from Wayne explaining the modification required;

The pins on the Ducati O2 sensor plug are numbered 1,2,3,4
1 = signal.
2 = ground
3 = 12v

My adapter loom has a 10k and 2.4k resistor (from JayCar electronics).
The buttons from Domino have brown, green and white wires.
Brown is common to both buttons, this goes to pin 1 (signal)
White goes to pin 2 (ground), pin 2 is also connected to one side of the 2.4k resistor.
green connects to the other side of the 2.4k resistor, this side or the resistor also connects to one side of the 10k resistor.
The other side of the 10k resistor connects to pin 3 (12v)

The resistors act as a voltage divider so the point between the two resistors is about 2.7v
When the nudge up button is pushed it connects the signal wire to the 2.7v, when the nudge down is pushed it connects the signal to ground.

iPhone app
You will need to provide the UDID number of your phone to Wayne as his app has not yet been uploaded to the app store so he is manually enabling test users. You need to connect your iPhone to your PC and get the UDID number. Also I found that to get the app to communicate with the ECU, the Innovate device needs to be connected and the bike switched on before you see any response from the app itself. This threw me initially as I expected some connection information when I selected the tuneboy wifi network and I did not see the Wifi symbol showing at the top status line on the phone, it still showed the LTE signal status even though its connected via WiFi so I thought it wasn't connecting properly.

Quickshifter/blipper
Appear to be working correctly but could be improved with some tweaking. Sometimes the upshifts in the lower gears at mid revs is a bit jerky but similar to what I was experiencing with the standard QS. Sometimes its smooth. The blipper is working well and I am finding the downshift pressure a little hard but will try readjusting this in the software. Also it is not necessary to re-download the tune map again when enabling the QS or adjusting the Cruise options. You just need to go to the config page (after the mitsubishi program has read the map from the ECU), make the selections and exit the page. The default setting Wayne advised I set up the QS initially at were;

QS kill time - 5mm from the left
QS pressure - kill just to the right of the mark shown on the slider
Blip pressure - blip pressure slide just to the left of the mark

I will try increasing the QS kill time to see if it will reduce the jerkiness in the lower gears but I'm not sure this is correct (waiting on a response from Wayne).

Cruise control options
I selected the option 'nudge buttons with resume function' which is found on the config page of the mitsubishi program. This option enables the down button on the Aux switch to act as a resume feature, similar to a car cruise control. Also note the +ve button now replaces the cruise control set function that the start button used to perform. Pressing the start button only enables cruise control when this option is selected.

Regards,

Yoshi



Nice write up!

henrypbui Dec 13th 2017 09:18 PM

do you have pictures of the aux switch wayne got for you? i cant seem to find a domino replacement that looks like factory. the cheapest i have found is the old part # 65140201B from AMS for 223.82 and the current part # 96580111A for 305.90.

I am getting through the details of what i need or want for the tuneboy. Currently talking to Wayne about the options and what my needs are. Maybe since you have pretty much the setup I want, you could help me out a little quicker and i dont bother Wayne so much.

Using the cruise with the aux buttons, and having the blipper, are you running dual widebands o2s and completely deleted the narrow band o2s?

are the o2s being read some how by the ecu since the aux buttons and strain gauge taking place of the ecu input of the o2s?

tteitei Dec 14th 2017 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by henrypbui (Post 297843)
do you have pictures of the aux switch wayne got for you? i cant seem to find a domino replacement that looks like factory. the cheapest i have found is the old part # 65140201B from AMS for 223.82 and the current part # 96580111A for 305.90.

I am getting through the details of what i need or want for the tuneboy. Currently talking to Wayne about the options and what my needs are. Maybe since you have pretty much the setup I want, you could help me out a little quicker and i dont bother Wayne so much.

Using the cruise with the aux buttons, and having the blipper, are you running dual widebands o2s and completely deleted the narrow band o2s?

are the o2s being read some how by the ecu since the aux buttons and strain gauge taking place of the ecu input of the o2s?

Hi,

I am not using the wideband sensors and have eliminated the standard o2 sensors. Actually I don't know how you could use wideband sensors at the same time as both QS and CC as they use the sensor connectors to talk to the ECU.

As for the photo, the switch is exactly like the 1299 aux switch only the buttons are black not grey. Wayne bought a lot of these and I purchased one from him which came modified for use to connect to the o2 sensor connector.

Once you install both QS and CC, make sure you go through the process of 'sensing' the QS and CC inputs. There is a function in the Config menu which lets the ECU sets which device is connected to each of the o2 sensors otherwise the there is a 50% chance the ECU thinks the QS and CC is connected to the wrong o2 connector. Also if you reload the firmware for any reason, make sure you go through this process again.

Hope this helps.

Yoshi

tteitei Mar 17th 2018 07:50 PM

Update on Tuneboy features v6
 
Just thought I would provide an update on some of the features of the Tuneboy system.

iPhone app
I tried using this at the track to adjust my QS settings so I would not have to bring my laptop. This was a big mistake as the app is quite unreliable and buggy. It also reset the CC/QS cable inputs so I had to spend time moving the QS connector from the front o2 connector to the rear which was a PIA. I won't be using it again.

Blipper control
This is probably the best feature and has been working well. The only issue I have noticed is that occasionally it tends to over rev and I get pushed forward on the bike (I assume the rev matching is not syncing).

QS
Still having some issues with the QS at higher revs. Still seems jerky to me when I am at above 7K and changing at half or WOT. Have made a change to the settings to minimize QS cut time so hoping that helps and reduced upshift pressure. Works well at lower revs.

CC
Had problems with the bike/engine engaging the cruise speed setting randomly after I had applied brakes. I think this was due to the adapter cable that Wayne send me as I had checked that the nudge button was working properly. I've rewired the cable but haven't tested it yet so hopefully, this has been fixed.

Tune maps
I've noticed that generally, the Tuneboy tune maps for the 1199s (termi slip ons) make my bike very sensitive just off the throttle at low revs. This makes being smooth just off the throttle in slow corners quite difficult compared to the standard tune which is OK in this respect. Certainly, the Tuneboy maps are a bit better beyond 3-4K. Will experiment with reducing EBC to see if that also helps to make it easier to control the bike in slow corners.

Fan Control
I've been told that you can change the cooling fan settings using Tuneboy and asked Wayne about this. He sent me another tuning application which allows you to set the fan temp settings (cut in and out). You upload the tune map into this program, set the temps and then flash the ECU again using the mitsubishi application with the modified map. I haven't tried this yet as Wayne never returned my email to confirm this process.

Customer service
Unfortunately, this is the biggest area of complaint. I understand Tuneboy is a small setup so its difficult for one person to keep up with all the inquiries and request for help in a timely manner. It's a shame because the product itself is so feature rich and easy to install compared to something like Rapidbike. It's too bad he doesn't have a good dealer network who have expertise in the product to help customers out.



Regards,

Yoshi

DStyleNZL Mar 18th 2018 01:02 PM

For the Blipper you need to play around with the BlipH and BlipL tables to adjust for your liking.

The supplied trims blipper settings arent that great and even one tuner for TB said the blipper is what takes the most time to setup.
I ask wayne for better blipper table settings and just got "add 3% to the table"

Iphone app working? wow, after 2 years Ive given up trying to get the app off wayne.

Only Issue Ive had with CC was one update with CC on in 6th it use to auto go full throttle.
Only time wayne has emailed back in the same day.

QS has a feature where the slider kill time setting is adjusted as the rpm gets higher.
On the track i found this uneasy with 2nd to 3rd. I ended up just holding it in 3rd and rode faster


what program you use for fan control? Im interested in this.


*on a side note, my QS load cell is playing up, TB wants full price replacement and Cordona is more expensive direct. Blip box is stupid money ($1400AUD!!) so im looking at changing to Woolich or RB.

jock39racer Mar 18th 2018 08:21 PM

Fan Control
I've been told that you can change the cooling fan settings using Tuneboy and asked Wayne about this. He sent me another tuning application which allows you to set the fan temp settings (cut in and out). You upload the tune map into this program, set the temps and then flash the ECU again using the mitsubishi application with the modified map. I haven't tried this yet as Wayne never returned my email to confirm this process.

Regards,

Yoshi[/QUOTE]

Hi mate,
Is it possible for you to share this program with the forum? A lot of people have mentioned it, but not many had the ability to do it.
It would be greatly appreciated.

tteitei Mar 19th 2018 04:08 AM

I can't upload the files as they are larger than the max sized attachment allowed. PM your email addresses and I'll send the files direct. Please note that I'm not going to try using it until Wayne comes back with some confirmation on what I assume is the correct process.

tadashi Mar 19th 2018 10:25 AM

Be aware that there is no documentation and discretionary support for the Tune Editor software. So people donít get all buthurt if Wayne doesnít answer you. And to be honest and a bit blunt - if you have to ask such a simple question you probably donít belong in there. Changing the fans and deleting the kickstand are literally the easiest things to do.

You can easily blow up up your bike if you play around in there itís not a simple trim editor like the normal tuneboy trim program.

I was given this disclaimer when I was received the program and I feel if youíre sending it to people they should be set with the same expectations.

tteitei Mar 25th 2018 11:28 PM

Tuneboy cruise, QS, blipper and iPhone app lessons learnt
 
Report from Sepang track day 24/03.

Rode to Sepang racetrack on the 23rd for the track day on the 24th. Tested the changes I made to Tuneboy and this is a follow up report on my findings.

QS: new setting didnít make much difference to the Ďjerkinessí of the quickshifter when changing at wot from 6-8k. Changes from 2-3 were quite harsh. A friend suggested I shift at higher revs and noticed that shifts from 3/4/5 were much better above 9k. 2/3 were a
Little less harsh but not horrible. Clutching the 2/3 changes for now to keep things smooth.

CC: replacing the cable from the switch to the O2 sensor made no difference. CC would engage itself on the odd occasion so needed fingers on the front brake just in case. Will look to redo the connector to see if this rectifies the problem.

Blipper: worked well with only the occasional over rev which was manageable.

Overall mixed results. Rear valve cover gasket failed so need to replace and will look to replace the front brake master pump with and rcs17. The Oem is always too squishy regardless of how much I bleed it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

tteitei Mar 29th 2018 08:04 PM

I am having a problem with the tune editor sw which can change the fan set points. I have tried modifying the tune file prior to connecting to the bike. I can open the file and select the thermo fan menu item but can't seem to change the values, the field just go green. Can someone who has done the mod let me know what I am doing wrong? Do I need to be connected to the bike to adjust the temp settings in the tune file?

Regards,


Yoshi

rpm429 Mar 30th 2018 02:57 PM

Use the page up and page down to change values. I just sent you an Email with instructions :)

henrypbui Apr 1st 2018 03:00 PM

Could somebody send me the program to adjust the fan? I can pm you my email. Thanks

tteitei Apr 3rd 2018 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by henrypbui (Post 305344)
Could somebody send me the program to adjust the fan? I can pm you my email. Thanks



Pm me your email address and Iíll send you a link to the software.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

tteitei Apr 9th 2018 03:43 AM

Update CC problem
Did some testing and came to the conclusion that the Domino up down switch (same as the Aux switch on the 1299) is not waterproof (rated at IP67). This may explain why it caused a problem when I was reloading the firmware after a wash (wasn't recognizing the nudge buttons). I purchased this from Wayne and have sent it back for repair or replacement.

henrypbui Apr 20th 2018 04:29 PM

Is anybody having a problem connecting the ecu to the wet transfer tune edit software? I can connect to the regular tuneboy trim program but cannot get the wet transfer to connect to my ecu to adjust the fan temps.

rpm429 Apr 20th 2018 05:37 PM

You don't need to connect to ECU, just open the tune file (.dat) you flashed into your bike previously. Make fan changes then click Save. give the file a different name, then flash that .dat into your ecu with the normal flash program,and don't forget your trim files if you have any for the bike.

henrypbui Apr 20th 2018 06:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rpm429 (Post 307405)
You don't need to connect to ECU, just open the tune file (.dat) you flashed into your bike previously. Make fan changes then click Save. give the file a different name, then flash that .dat into your ecu with the normal flash program,and don't forget your trim files if you have any for the bike.

Thanks i will give that a shot.

UPDATE
I saved the new file with the adjusted fan temp on and off (88C or 190F on / 85C or 180F off) and it seems as it is still stuck on the factory setting. Flashed the ecu once, then test road it, then 2 times back to back and no difference. Any trick way or specific procedure I may be missing out?

rpm429 Apr 21st 2018 04:02 AM

The fan will always default to the the factory setting (217f) the first time it comes on every key cycle. After the first 217f activation it uses your new lower temp setting until the next key cycle. It is not somthing you can change.

From testing different settings I found that if the outside temp is above 85ish the fan cant really pull the temp below 200 easily so the fan will run constantly in traffic and low speed riding. It will go below 200 once I start moving above 35mph. The only issue I see with a constant running fan is you'll wear the fan faster and it's harder on the charging system.

Spud312r Apr 25th 2018 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tteitei (Post 304865)
Report from Sepang track day 24/03.

Rode to Sepang racetrack on the 23rd for the track day on the 24th. Tested the changes I made to Tuneboy and this is a follow up report on my findings.

QS: new setting didnít make much difference to the Ďjerkinessí of the quickshifter when changing at wot from 6-8k. Changes from 2-3 were quite harsh. A friend suggested I shift at higher revs and noticed that shifts from 3/4/5 were much better above 9k. 2/3 were a
Little less harsh but not horrible. Clutching the 2/3 changes for now to keep things smooth.

CC: replacing the cable from the switch to the O2 sensor made no difference. CC would engage itself on the odd occasion so needed fingers on the front brake just in case. Will look to redo the connector to see if this rectifies the problem.

Blipper: worked well with only the occasional over rev which was manageable.

Overall mixed results. Rear valve cover gasket failed so need to replace and will look to replace the front brake master pump with and rcs17. The Oem is always too squishy regardless of how much I bleed it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Hi Fella

1199S in the UK

Can you screen shot your QS settings screen - either pc app or ipone app..

Just done Donnington Park Track day and the whole episode concerning QS/Blipper was pretty poor

Or do your original settings remain as a good baseline ?

QS kill time - 5mm from the left (shorter)
Blip pressure - blip pressure slide just to the left of the mark
QS pressure - kill just to the right of the mark shown on the slider


I've also increased the BlipH table upto 5500rpm by 3% as suggested by Wayne so not sure if the above settings are stlil valid ?

tteitei Apr 25th 2018 06:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spud312r (Post 307806)
Hi Fella



1199S in the UK



Can you screen shot your QS settings screen - either pc app or ipone app..



Just done Donnington Park Track day and the whole episode concerning QS/Blipper was pretty poor



Or do your original settings remain as a good baseline ?



QS kill time - 5mm from the left (shorter)

Blip pressure - blip pressure slide just to the left of the mark

QS pressure - kill just to the right of the mark shown on the slider





I've also increased the BlipH table upto 5500rpm by 3% as suggested by Wayne so not sure if the above settings are stlil valid ?



https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2623012199.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

tteitei Apr 25th 2018 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tteitei (Post 307807)



Also please note that I found if I changed at around 9k the upshift seemed better although 2-3 was still a bit rough so Iím considering trying clutchless shifts from 2-3.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spud312r Apr 25th 2018 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tteitei (Post 307808)
Also please note that I found if I changed at around 9k the upshift seemed better although 2-3 was still a bit rough so Iím considering trying clutchless shifts from 2-3.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers fella


Kill time looks right to the left !!!

Have you also tried the kill time default, as i wonder if that works for the OEM shifter will, would it work with the TB supplied shifter ?

17.4 Adjusting the Quick Shifter Kill Time
The ďQS Kill TimeĒ slider allows you to adjust the kill time used for up-shifts.

If the slider is fully to the right, the kill time will use the default time.

As you move the slider to the left the kill time will be reduced.

N.B. If your motorcycle is a Panigale this time adjust can be used to adjust thekill-time for the factory fitted shifter.

tteitei Apr 25th 2018 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spud312r (Post 307811)
Cheers fella





Kill time looks right to the left !!!



Have you also tried the kill time default, as i wonder if that works for the OEM shifter will, would it work with the TB supplied shifter ?



17.4 Adjusting the Quick Shifter Kill Time

The ďQS Kill TimeĒ slider allows you to adjust the kill time used for up-shifts.



If the slider is fully to the right, the kill time will use the default time.



As you move the slider to the left the kill time will be reduced.



N.B. If your motorcycle is a Panigale this time adjust can be used to adjust thekill-time for the factory fitted shifter.



Havenít tried it myself as I donít know how it compares to having the time all the way to the left. Problem I have is that I canít really make changes at the track as I ride there and canít be bothered to take a laptop to try it out. I wish Wayne provided information about the QS times by Rev and make them adjustable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Spud312r Apr 25th 2018 07:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tteitei (Post 307813)
Havenít tried it myself as I donít know how it compares to having the time all the way to the left. Problem I have is that I canít really make changes at the track as I ride there and canít be bothered to take a laptop to try it out. I wish Wayne provided information about the QS times by Rev and make them adjustable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The iphone app looks like an easy option - i tried it to day and it works - even cross checked it with laptop..

DStyleNZL Apr 25th 2018 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spud312r (Post 307806)
Hi Fella

1199S in the UK

Can you screen shot your QS settings screen - either pc app or ipone app..

Just done Donnington Park Track day and the whole episode concerning QS/Blipper was pretty poor

Or do your original settings remain as a good baseline ?

QS kill time - 5mm from the left (shorter)
Blip pressure - blip pressure slide just to the left of the mark
QS pressure - kill just to the right of the mark shown on the slider


I've also increased the BlipH table upto 5500rpm by 3% as suggested by Wayne so not sure if the above settings are stlil valid ?

Im still finding 3% not good enough. I'm going to try 4% and for the street tirm file increase the BlipL table

tteitei Nov 5th 2018 06:13 AM

CC update Nov 2018
Finally solved a few cruise control problems with the nudge buttons. Problems were that the cc would randomly set itself so I would be decelerating but the cc would take over and hold the throttle open. Needed to have fingers over the front brake lever all the time. Also found that cc was always on when I started up without having to hold the start button for three seconds to engage it.

Resolved these problems by removing the nudge buttons and changing the configuration to use the up/down buttons instead. I think the problem is the adapter cable Wayne makes but not entirely sure. Right now the cc works fine although I may at some stage wire up a simple button on the left handlebar in parallel with the start switch to make it easier to set the cruise speed without resorting to using the nudge button setup


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