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Old Sep 13th 2017, 05:35 AM   #1
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Rear spring/shock, easy one.

What direction in spring rate should I go? I don't like the fact that I'm using the entire stroke of the rear shock after having my sag set. Intuitively I'd reach for a firmer spring. Or, is the fact that I'm using the entire stroke of the shock a result of the compression setting being too soft? (On the S's, the higher the number, the less valving, correct?) Current spring is a 29/90 stock unit, I'm 190lbs geared-up. The bike (1199s) is track only. Appreciate any input. Taking a while but the bike's finally coming around.
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Old Sep 13th 2017, 11:17 AM   #2
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At your weight, the 90nm spring shouldn't be too stiff unless there are extenuating circumstances. I weight roughly the same and I run an 85 spring.

I'm not sure what you mean by not liking using the entire stroke of the rear shock? You mean you have a potentiometer installed and know your shock travel? If so, and you're using full travel, what were your corner exits like and how bumpy is the track? Do you have telemetry data from the track so you know where exactly it's bottoming out?

Flat rate or progressive rear linkage setting?

The numbers on the S suspension setup are simulating "Clicks Out" from full stiff on a conventional setup. So the higher number you set Compression to, the less compressing damping there will be.

Is there a chance the rear shock has lost it's nitrogen charge and is just riding on the spring? How old is the shock fluid?
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Old Sep 13th 2017, 12:10 PM   #3
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I Ride: 13, white 1199 S, 10 Husaberg 450FE
Originally Posted by opinion914 View Post
I don't like the fact that I'm using the entire stroke of the rear shock after having my sag set. .
Sag was not set properly, tighten rear spring. Mine had that feel when adjusted to loose.

At 200lbs with all gear, the stock shock is perfect for rough canyon roads and high speed runs in flat rate.
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Old Sep 13th 2017, 01:21 PM   #4
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It's setup on the "F" position. Current sag is approx. 28mm . I placed a ziptie on the shaft of the shock and after each race it's buried deep into the rubber bumpstop at the end of the shaft. I originally had the sag set firmer, but the bike was pogo-ing at the rear when wicking up the throttle coming out of a turn, as if the tire was breaking loose and grabbing, breaking loose and grabbing, suggesting the spring rate was too stiff and the suspension wasn't soft enough to absorb the compression under generous throttle application. So I had the sag set and it turns out it was too stiff. Now, with proper sag I have very little pogo-ing, but I'm not sure i should be burying the siptie into the end of the shaft like I am. No clue about the history of the shock. If these stock Ohlins are rebuildable, I'll look into that. Just want to see if there's anything obvious I'm missing first.
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Old Sep 13th 2017, 03:03 PM   #5
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Do you know how much actual preload is on the spring now to get your sag to 28? Or did you just loosen it up from where it was until the sag dropped to 28? I would not pay any attention to a zip tie on a shock shaft because that doesn't tell you where it happened or why. If there's just one big bump on a corner exit, it could bottom the shock out, but that doesn't mean there's anything wrong with the setup. As long as the drive off the turns is good, no spinning, no squatting, etc. then there's probably not much more to be gained, just ride it.
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Old Sep 14th 2017, 06:03 AM   #6
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10mm of thread showing, no idea what that is as a percentage of overall adjustment available. NJMP was the last track I've ridden and it's a really smooth track; no bumps to speak of. I wish I had a camera on the shock telling me where, and for how long the shock is bottomed.

Kevin
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