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Old May 10th 2018, 01:04 PM   #41
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And now on to the elephant in the room and to answer the question 'what did she do on the dyno?' I'll put the graph with the before and after runs below but here is the summary:

Old = 185.8 BHP / 97.71 Ftlb
New = 187.04BHP / 97.5 Ftlb

Sounds like a waste of time looking at the numbers but what it doesn't tell you is the shape of the two curves when compared side by side. Between 4-6k revs, the after curve has a massive increase in both torque and power (about 20%) which is what I was feeling on the road. Before, it would chug at ow revs, get going and then go bats hit crazy at 7500+RPM. Now it pulls smoothly and like the proverbial train before sgoing just as crazy after.

It makes it feel far less of an all or nothing bike to ride which is one of criticisms levelled at the 1199. I know it was improved for the 1299 but neither like low revs too much. I'm a little disappointed there wasn't a bigger headline number but 187bhp (at the back wheel) is pretty damn healthy. I don't know if the second run was hampered by the bike wanting to slide on the dyno roller but the tester seemed happy with it.

Here's the graph:
20180510_170133 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

I'm trying to upload the second run but the first dyno run is below:
20180509_100720 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

Thanks for reading.

Matt
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Old May 25th 2018, 12:54 PM   #42
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The stop gap solution to the knackered tail tidy arrived today so I got it / them fitted. The solution is an integrated tail light by Whitelights and a NRC plate hanger which is a common mod there in the US but not so common over here - mainly due to the size of plate that has to be used due to the lack of clearance under the bike. Both parts were supplied by Design Corse and actually arrived really quickly.

Here's what came:
20180525_213901 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

The tail light is a smoked, rather than red version which I think fits in well with the rest of the bike. Here are the OEM and replacement units side by side:
20180525_203140 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

Of course, the other difference is the wiring for the indicators being included on the new one. It was pretty easy to fiddle with the routing of the wires as the new tail can be stripped down in a matter of seconds now.

Here's the finished job:
20180525_213610 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

And images of the lights in action:
20180525_213531(0) by Matt Bly, on Flickr

20180525_213531(1) by Matt Bly, on Flickr

The new number plate is on it's way and should be here tomorrow. I just hope it doesn't melt straight away!! I've heard some plates are fine and others are rubbish so I'll have t wait and see. It may even require a pressed metal plate in the end.

Although the above looks pretty nice, my goal is to actually produce a new version of a tail tidy that allows me to run some normal indicators and a slightly larger plate so as not to attract any attention. Right now though, it's simply the case that I can't ride the bike without the stop gap above!
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Old May 25th 2018, 12:59 PM   #43
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Looking good. Time to ride it this weekend.


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Old May 25th 2018, 11:50 PM   #44
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Here's a video of both dyno runs.



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Old May 27th 2018, 06:42 PM   #45
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I only watched a dozen or so corners but considering your speed your tc light seems to go off early with not much lean or power. Just curious whatís its set on? I have a 13 1199r and I was concerned mine cute too much Iím running it on 1 but after seeing your video maybe mine is ok

Originally Posted by Horico View Post
As mentioned on my intro post, I've been browsing the forum quite a bit so thought I'd join up and also share my minor project.

During a recent trackday at Rockingham, I unfortunately went a little 'off road' and caused some damage to the bike. The video is below (skip to the end to see the crash!).

www.youtube.com/embed/oW-T3zhIWak

Anyway, after the crash I found I had damaged the fairings on both sides, scuffed the nose, smashed the screen, broke the left mirror, cracked / smashed the clutch casing (which damaged the basket and pressure plate), snapped off the steering lock pin on the lower triple, sheered the tabs on the upper triple, scuffed the right DP bar end and maybe a few other things I've forgotten.

I set about sourcing replacement parts and came across some mint replacement OEM fairings and nose and snapped them up. I also secured two brand new mirrors, a full clutch assembly and set about adding some crash protection, including spindle protectors, crash bungs and generator cover. I acquired some DP mirror blanks and a brake lever guard and went back on track at Bedford Autodrome where I was fortunate enough to get some tuition from Chris 'The Stalker' Walker. Also hit 173mph in 5th down the straight which is the fastest I've been so far!

Edit: I also purchased a CNC Racing triple clamp set and had it installed - a lovely piece of kit and looks way better than the OEM piece.

Ready for Bedford:
20170709_161131 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

In the Pits:
20170710_090809 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

Anyway, the thing that lead to this build is that when I purchased the red fairings, the seller also had some carbon panels for sale. I had zero intention of purchasing them as I had no idea if they would fit or their provenance but they seemed a good price and a deal was done! Here's a pic of the panels:

Carbon Fairings by Matt Bly, on Flickr

They're made by CM Composites and retail as Speed Carbon. If you check the World Superbike ran by Aruba.IT or view their sponsors you'll see the Speed Carbon logo. Further support that the fairings I have a the genuine article...

Speed Carbon logo front bottom of the fairing on the race bike:
Aruba WSBK by Matt Bly, on Flickr

I'm sure some of you will know more about them than I do.

Anyway, back to the plan. I had a couple of possible results in mind - these being either a RS12 or RS13 look. As you know, the RS models are basically race bikes that the big boys buy and take racing. The RS12 was the 2012 1199 race bike and RS13, well, you can guess. Here are images of each of the bikes:

RS12
RS12 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

RS13
RS13 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

After a couple of straw polls on various Facebook groups - it's been neck and neck between gloss and matte finishes. Of course, I love the gloss but everyone seems to go for the gloss carbon! The main difference with mine is that I'm going to have the full race panels, ie. full sides rather than an upper and lower so I'd be happy mine was different enough to remain gloss.

I can't stop wanting the matte version though. It just looks 'racebike' and less of a tarts handbag. It's a lot of work to make this work but being a little different isn't always easy...

Update to follow....
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Old May 29th 2018, 01:25 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by jamesjames View Post
I only watched a dozen or so corners but considering your speed your tc light seems to go off early with not much lean or power. Just curious whatís its set on? I have a 13 1199r and I was concerned mine cute too much Iím running it on 1 but after seeing your video maybe mine is ok
I think it was on 2. Not really sure of your question though, 1 is the lowest and afaik recommended for track work and slicks. If your not worrying the tyres then I'm sure you're fine.

In truth, I think mine was flashing far too easily so if I was to track it again, it would be turned down until I felt something happening at the back.

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Old Jun 24th 2018, 08:58 AM   #47
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I had a few more bits arrive so got cracking yesterday and today and got them on. I sourced some CRG bar end mirrors from the states which, while not cheap, seem well made and have some good reviews. I managed to get them on without having to obtain any different bar ends which was good.

Now, removing the mirrors means removing the indicators so another US product was sent over - the NRC flush indicators. They were a bit fiddly to get on and the wires tidied away but a nit of patience and all was well.

Finally, I added some decals - much the same as I had on the bike when it was red but these were in brushed ali to match tank and tie everything in. Here are some pics:

20180624_151835 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

20180624_151937 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

20180624_151825 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

20180624_151848 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

20180624_152018 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

20180624_152029 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

20180624_152008 by Matt Bly, on Flickr
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Old Jun 24th 2018, 09:48 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Horico View Post
I think it was on 2. Not really sure of your question though, 1 is the lowest and afaik recommended for track work and slicks. If your not worrying the tyres then I'm sure you're fine.

In truth, I think mine was flashing far too easily so if I was to track it again, it would be turned down until I felt something happening at the back.

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Looking very nice kept it up ride safe!!


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Old Jul 2nd 2018, 09:55 AM   #49
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Today was bittersweet. More on that later.

I got down to a friends unit so we could crack on with a couple of jobs that I've been waiting for a while to get done. If you've read up, you'll remember I had some bits powder coated black. I also bought some CNC Racing rearsets which I've had for a couple of months now. Today's job was to get all but the clip ons bolted on.

First job was to suspend the mistress' backside in the air to allow the shock linkage to be un-bolted:
20180702_114224 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

All stripped down:
20180702_114218 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

Shock linkage etc fitted:
20180702_125429 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

Rearsets added, clutch side:
IMG_4836 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

Similar treatment to the brake lever side:
20180702_144659 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

All was looking well so I rode her home, stopping for a drink on the way. As I got home, I went to put the side stand down and the bike nearly went from under me! I caught it and could see that the side stand was loose. Worse than that, it had gone forward and cracked the carbon fairing! FFS! Luckily, my neighbour was in so I gave her a tinkle and asked her to come hold the bike while I got the paddock stand out. I then inspected the damage:

What a S*&T:
20180702_163428 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

The culprit:
20180702_163501 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

It clearly wasn't happy to stay with me so worked itself loose on the 3 mile ride home. I found a spare shouldered M8 bolt that I had spare and threw it in with some Loctite. We believed we had put threadlock on before we finished but clearly we didn't. I removed the bolt that was still in (loosely) and saw that the threads were clean:


20180702_171025 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

Anyway, I fixed it back in with tome threadlock:
20180702_171147 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

It's annoying that it doesn't match but I'll sort that later. It's hidden by the fairing in normal use. The damage to the fairing once off looked like this:

20180702_163817 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

I'm not gonna cry about it - there's worse happening in the world but it is annoying seeing as the bike was more 'almost' done. I decided to take some better snaps:

IMG_4821 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

IMG_4820 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

IMG_4818 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

IMG_4815 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

IMG_4814 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

IMG_4825 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

IMG_4830 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

IMG_4832 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

IMG_4839 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

IMG_4844 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

IMG_4841 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

IMG_4845 by Matt Bly, on Flickr

Edit: I also fitted some carbon exhaust heat shields that arrived the other day!

Thanks for reading.

Matt
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Last edited by Horico; Jul 2nd 2018 at 09:58 AM.
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