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Old Nov 17th 2018, 07:55 PM   #1
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2014 1199 engine overheating issues

Constantly running at 225F even at 50-70kph steady speed and shoots above 240F at speeds lower than 50kph. Have checked that fan does come on and there is sufficient coolant, what could possibly be the reasons for this? Anyone else facing same situation? Bike has done less than 10k kmís on odometer...
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Old Nov 19th 2018, 04:10 AM   #2
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What condition are the radiators in? If the bike has been well-maintained, there's probably no reason to suspect that anything has restricted flow through the cores. The radiator filler cap... the system is under pressure during normal operation. If the filler cap fails to seal properly, cooling efficiency will suffer. The coolant temperature sensor... it's registering and the fan comes on, but is it reflecting the actual coolant temperature? The thermostat is a possibility... if it fails to close, coolant flow will not be directed through the engine. How about the water pump? If the water pump bearings are failing (or failed), or if the pump drive gear disintegrated, no coolant will flow. Worst case, internal engine problems... spun bearings and the like.

Last edited by Khmer1199; Nov 19th 2018 at 04:47 AM. Reason: Content Addition
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Old Nov 19th 2018, 08:06 AM   #3
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Thanks...Have checked radiator, even did a clean just in case, new radiator filler cap had been put on recently so should be no issues with sealing and pressure, new thermostat has been installed and checked water pump is working so there is coolant flow...so would next suggestion be to take engine apart to check? If so, what specific items or areas should be checked? Thanks for all extra advice!
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Old Nov 19th 2018, 11:03 PM   #4
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When did this problem first develop? Was the bike serviced in any manner before this issue arose?

Before considering the failure of internal engine components, you have to rule out any possible external cause. The coolant is fresh and the radiator filled to capacity. The thermostat and the radiator cap have been replaced, and youíre confident that there is no internal blockage.

When the cooling system was serviced and the radiator refilled, was the air expelled from the radiator? An airlock (air bubbles, air pocket) can cause the coolant to superheat. Starting with a cold engine, remove the radiator cap, start the engine, and let it run for several minutes until it comes up to operating temperature (the thermostat closes). Does the coolant level in the radiator drop, or does it remain constant? If the coolant level dropped, itís likely that air was trapped in the system.

You believe the water pump is functioning properly. With the radiator cap installed, the engine running and at operating temperature, if you squeeze the upper radiator hose (with a rag or glove) near the thermostat housing (squirter unit) and then release it, can you feel coolant rush through the hose? If not, while simultaneously giving the engine a little throttle, squeeze the hose again, and release. Can you feel coolant rush through the hose?
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Old Nov 21st 2018, 04:57 AM   #5
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Bike did not have anything special or service happen before this occurred. Coolant level does not drop, it has been properly cycled and coolant does rush through. But did notice a few bubbles appear at around radiator refill opening (radiator cap off) when revving the engine a few times, would that mean maybe cylinder gasket issue which causes some heat into the cooling system?
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Old Nov 21st 2018, 09:17 AM   #6
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Well I would imagine that if exhaust gases are leaking into the cooling system via a head gasket or crack somewhere, then it would at some point push fluid out of the system even while everything is sealed up. You say there is no leakage, but there would have to be at some point if exhaust gases are entering the coming system.

If the system is heating up, there has to be air in the system or an insufficient amount of fluid, blockage somewhere, poor circulation, or a faulty sensor. These have all been suggested above. It may be time to bite the bullet and have the dealer investigate before things get any worse.
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Old Nov 21st 2018, 07:58 PM   #7
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You mentioned previously that the thermostat was changed. I assume that you mean the entire thermostat housing (squirter unit). If you tried to replace just the thermostat (which I've never seen sold separately) and failed to seat it properly in the housing, you'll have problems. The pin at one end of the thermostat has to sit in the hole in the housing, while the metal tabs at the opposing end have to sit on the housing saddles. Installed incorrectly, the thermostat would be unable to close the passage between the upper half of the housing and the lower, and coolant wouldn't be directed through the engine.

If you think that a head gasket issue may exist, try a CO2 tester to confirm or rule out your suspicions. A small leak may be undetectable with the naked eye and the few bubbles that you see may mean nothing.
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Old Dec 5th 2018, 06:18 AM   #8
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You may also want to consider flushing the system and switching to Engine Ice as many people including myself have seen lower operating temps as a result of switching to it.
I know this won't fix the issue you're experiencing but it might help once you get it sorted to switch to Engine Ice as your coolant. (There are others that are known to reduce working temps- Engine Ice worked for me so thus I advise on its use but I have no affiliation with them.)
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