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Old Sep 1st 2019, 10:21 AM   #1
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I Ride: 2014 Panigale 1199
2014 1199: Three Codes - P0105, P100c and P0560

Hello all,

I am having three codes on the bike 2014 Panigale 1199:
P0105
P100c
P0560

As per my understanding, the codes are for MAP sensor, System Voltage but I cant find the third one.

When the bike is in ON (no engine running), the battery voltage is somewhere between 11.5 - 12.3. When I start the bike (engine running) the voltage goes up to 13 - 13.2. But doesnt go more than that. I think it is supposed to be around 14.5

I am thinking that either the stator, voltage regulator or battery (one of these) is bad. And since the system voltage is low, the MAP sensor might be not getting enough power or something which in turn trips that MAP sensor code.

But interestingly enough, when I was riding out yesterday, in 4th gear at 50 mph around 3k-4k rpm, the bike suddenly started fluctuating its rpms between 3k-6k ; which now I am thinking that its faulty MAP sensor also along with the voltage issue or maybe the lack of voltage making it do this.

Whats the proper way of diagnosing what's actually wrong.
I dont know how old the battery is since I bought the bike not too long ago.
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Old Sep 6th 2019, 09:44 PM   #2
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P0105 and P0560 are generic codes. P100/100C is manufacturer-specific and indicates an exhaust valve potentiometer with a short to ground, or an open circuit. That code is often seen when the exhaust valve motor has been disconnected and removed from the vehicle. Start with the system voltage malfunction code first; worry about the MAP sensor error later.

A battery in good condition will read 12.?V with the ignition off. The age, battery type and general condition, etc. will influence what might be considered the actual "normal" reading at any given point in time. When the ignition is turned "ON" (engine off), the system will go through a power-on sequence... the fuel pump will prime, the ETV motors will cycle fully open, return, and hold the throttle valves open slightly for starting, the vehicle pilot light will illuminate, etc. So, if the voltage is measured at this point, naturally a lower voltage reading will be observed.

If 13.?V are measured at idle after the bike has been started, try running the bike up to 3000-3500 RPM and then check the voltage level. At this point, 14.? volts may be observed.

Have a local service center load test the battery, or test it yourself. Observe the voltage while depressing the start button. The battery voltage should remain between 9.5 - 10.5V (approximately) continuously during the test. The coil leads can be removed to prevent the vehicle from starting during the test.

Test the alternator. With the vehicle turned off, remove the connector with the three yellow wires from the rectifier. Start the engine and measure the voltage between A&B, B&C, and A&C. The test is usually performed at a specific RPM. I'm not sure if it's listed in the shop manual or not. In any event, the output of each phase (when compared to one another) should be the same at any given RPM test point. Turn the vehicle "OFF" and reconnect the connector to the rectifier.

Check and clean all of your main power connections (battery connections, chassis ground connections, starter relay connections, etc.). Voltage can be dropped across loose/dirty connections.

Question the previous owner about the battery. How old is it? Was it cared for utilizing a maintainer to help minimize the effects of sulfation?
Thanks from youngR
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Old Sep 7th 2019, 06:26 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Khmer1199 View Post
P0105 and P0560 are generic codes. P100/100C is manufacturer-specific and indicates an exhaust valve potentiometer with a short to ground, or an open circuit. That code is often seen when the exhaust valve motor has been disconnected and removed from the vehicle. Start with the system voltage malfunction code first; worry about the MAP sensor error later.

A battery in good condition will read 12.?V with the ignition off. The age, battery type and general condition, etc. will influence what might be considered the actual "normal" reading at any given point in time. When the ignition is turned "ON" (engine off), the system will go through a power-on sequence... the fuel pump will prime, the ETV motors will cycle fully open, return, and hold the throttle valves open slightly for starting, the vehicle pilot light will illuminate, etc. So, if the voltage is measured at this point, naturally a lower voltage reading will be observed.

If 13.?V are measured at idle after the bike has been started, try running the bike up to 3000-3500 RPM and then check the voltage level. At this point, 14.? volts may be observed.

Have a local service center load test the battery, or test it yourself. Observe the voltage while depressing the start button. The battery voltage should remain between 9.5 - 10.5V (approximately) continuously during the test. The coil leads can be removed to prevent the vehicle from starting during the test.

Test the alternator. With the vehicle turned off, remove the connector with the three yellow wires from the rectifier. Start the engine and measure the voltage between A&B, B&C, and A&C. The test is usually performed at a specific RPM. I'm not sure if it's listed in the shop manual or not. In any event, the output of each phase (when compared to one another) should be the same at any given RPM test point. Turn the vehicle "OFF" and reconnect the connector to the rectifier.

Check and clean all of your main power connections (battery connections, chassis ground connections, starter relay connections, etc.). Voltage can be dropped across loose/dirty connections.

Question the previous owner about the battery. How old is it? Was it cared for utilizing a maintainer to help minimize the effects of sulfation?
Khmer, big fan of your youtube as well.

This is not Panigale related but older Multistrada 1000.

I have a Error 10.2 - Horizontal cylinder coil short-circuit to ground.

You think it's just Spark Plug? or bad coil rubber wire?
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Old Sep 8th 2019, 01:25 AM   #4
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I replied to your PM.
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