| Ducati 1299 Ducati 1299 Forum - Ducati 1299 Panigale Superbike Motorcycle Forum |  14Thanks 
Dec 5th 2015, 07:57 PM
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#21 | | Member
Joined: Jun 2015 From: BC Posts: 38 Thanks: 4 I Ride: 1299s |
Originally Posted by bradp51  the ducati engineers that built and designed this engine just wrote the break in procedure in the manual for a joke. They spent lots of time and money testing and then writing the procedure.
But they did all that because they had nothing better to do. You can get much better advice on here from guys who have owned a panigale for 5 minutes and paint houses for a living.
(no offence to any house painters) |
100%
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Dec 5th 2015, 09:01 PM
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#22 | | Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2015 From: Asheville, NC Posts: 212 Thanks: 52 I Ride: 2015 1299 Base |
Originally Posted by bradp51 The Ducati engineers that built and designed this engine just wrote the break in procedure in the manual for a joke. They spent lots of time and money testing and then writing the procedure. |
*sigh* here we go again...this is the same endlessly parroted response - the same people say never use anything except OEM oil and air filters because they're the "best" (proven false) and always wait 600 miles to change the oil the first time because you need to let the crap circulate and help parts bed in (or whatever, proven false)
"But the manual says so!"
Who cares? Common sense and countless case studies trump the manual and it's outmoded break-in methodology.
In reality, the break-in guidance in the manual is an extremely conservative procedure intended to cover a vast range of possible owner uses. It's always better for the manufacturer to err on the side of caution. Regardless, it's been proven over and over (and over) that a moderately hard break in with short bursts of throttle (initially in the lower gears, to prevent excessive heat, higher gears later) works - plain and simple, end of story. With short trips, frequent oil changes, occasional hard throttle, break in is complete well before 1000 miles, and many compression/leak down/dyno tests prove it, unequivocally
This is the most balanced article I've seen on the topic - this is the method I use and my engines never use a drop of oil. Gentle break in motors very often use *some* oil New Engine Break-in Procedure | |
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Dec 5th 2015, 09:45 PM
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#23 | | Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015 From: USA Posts: 1,358 Thanks: 1056 I Ride: '15 Panigale 1299S, '15 Triumph 675R, '14 Honda Grom, '13 Aprilia RSV4, '10 Yamaha R6, '06 Yamaha R1 |
Originally Posted by ultra300x *sigh* here we go again...this is the same endlessly parroted response - the same people say never use anything except OEM oil and air filters because they're the "best" (proven false) and always wait 600 miles to change the oil the first time because you need to let the crap circulate and help parts bed in (or whatever, proven false)
"But the manual says so!"
Who cares? Common sense and countless case studies trump the manual and it's outmoded break-in methodology.
In reality, the break-in guidance in the manual is an extremely conservative procedure intended to cover a vast range of possible owner uses. It's always better for the manufacturer to err on the side of caution. Regardless, it's been proven over and over (and over) that a moderately hard break in with short bursts of throttle (initially in the lower gears, to prevent excessive heat, higher gears later) works - plain and simple, end of story. With short trips, frequent oil changes, occasional hard throttle, break in is complete well before 1000 miles, and many compression/leak down/dyno tests prove it, unequivocally
This is the most balanced article I've seen on the topic - this is the method I use and my engines never use a drop of oil. Gentle break in motors very often use *some* oil New Engine Break-in Procedure |
Very well said and i couldnt agree more. I am not saying one should take their bike to redline leaving the dealership, obviously there is a right and a wrong way to perform a harder break in. But the harder break in methodology has proven to be superior over and over.
I have said it before, anytime somebody is going to start a debate with " well, the engineers at (insert OEM) spent a lot of time....", just please stop. Seriously, just don't.
By that reasoning we should never change the type/brand/style of chain or sprockets, sprocket carrier, oil, filter, levers, rearsets, tires, clip-ons, battery, etc. I mean, the OEM engineers know best, right? 
The OEM is worried about liability, covering every type of use imaginable, protecting their interests and avoiding warranty claims.
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Dec 6th 2015, 12:26 AM
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#24 | | Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2012 From: australia Posts: 2,899 Thanks: 2443 |
Originally Posted by ultra300x *sigh* here we go again...this is the same endlessly parroted response - the same people say never use anything except OEM oil and air filters because they're the "best" (proven false) and always wait 600 miles to change the oil the first time because you need to let the crap circulate and help parts bed in (or whatever, proven false)
"But the manual says so!"
Who cares? Common sense and countless case studies trump the manual and it's outmoded break-in methodology.
In reality, the break-in guidance in the manual is an extremely conservative procedure intended to cover a vast range of possible owner uses. It's always better for the manufacturer to err on the side of caution. Regardless, it's been proven over and over (and over) that a moderately hard break in with short bursts of throttle (initially in the lower gears, to prevent excessive heat, higher gears later) works - plain and simple, end of story. With short trips, frequent oil changes, occasional hard throttle, break in is complete well before 1000 miles, and many compression/leak down/dyno tests prove it, unequivocally
This is the most balanced article I've seen on the topic - this is the method I use and my engines never use a drop of oil. Gentle break in motors very often use *some* oil New Engine Break-in Procedure |
Great article from 1991 . I have had many race bikes and this is the first I have run in from the "book " . The Pistons are fuckin huge so heat cycles and run in play a important role with this particular bike from your regular 4 IL or whatever bike .
Fact is do what you want but from experience the cautious run in is your better insurance from having a good motor and like I said in a previous post both motors will be the same but in the longest term one will be better .
This this has been debated to death so flip a coin .
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Dec 6th 2015, 01:22 AM
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#25 | | Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015 From: Trelleborg, Sweden. Posts: 533 Thanks: 274 I Ride: '16 Pani R, 1098R Bayliss, KTM1090R. | 
Again? Really?
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Dec 6th 2015, 07:28 AM
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#26 | | Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2015 From: USA Posts: 1,358 Thanks: 1056 I Ride: '15 Panigale 1299S, '15 Triumph 675R, '14 Honda Grom, '13 Aprilia RSV4, '10 Yamaha R6, '06 Yamaha R1 |
You guys are right. And I cant believe I got sucked into another one of these. Fuck me.
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