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Old May 16th 2017, 12:50 AM   #21
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So no one has a cheapo spirit level with a digital read out that can measure the SA angle . Wondering how much the 2 degree change in the pivot position changes the angle ?
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Old May 16th 2017, 01:26 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by mtb View Post
Jarel: Is there a way to go to -4mm on the swingarm pivot on an 899? I get wheelspin on exit of slow 2nd gear corners, and I know the factory went to that pivot position stock on the 959... Sorry for the thread jack, but I have been looking for a while.
Yes, I put the 1199R adjustable pieces on my 899 with the stock 899 swingarm, and it all bolted up just fine. You could also put the non-adjustable -4mm standard setup from the 1299/959 on it, which has fewer parts to it, it would just not be adjustable obviously. You need the swingarm pivot side plates from both sides as well as all of the internal bushing, sleeves, bolts, etc. to make it all work. I think the estimate of $300 or so is in the ballpark. E-mail Jen in our parts department and she can look all of the specific parts for you to order, parts@ducatiomaha.com.
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Old May 16th 2017, 03:51 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Calderara di Reno View Post
So no one has a cheapo spirit level with a digital read out that can measure the SA angle . Wondering how much the 2 degree change in the pivot position changes the angle ?
Sorry, my contact did not have the answer to your question. I am going to order some peg stands this week so once they arrive I'll l'll try to get the measurements as I would like to know myself.
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Old May 16th 2017, 03:55 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Calderara di Reno View Post
So no one has a cheapo spirit level with a digital read out that can measure the SA angle . Wondering how much the 2 degree change in the pivot position changes the angle ?
Keep in mind it's a 2mm change (not 2 degrees) when moving the swingarm pivot adjuster. That won't really change the swingarm angle much, but has a bigger impact on the anti-squat characteristic as it changes the relationship between the swingarm pivot and the driveshaft (front sprocket).
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Old May 17th 2017, 07:53 PM   #25
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But the question I'm looking for , have I adjusted my height to high, because of cog and chain change, and lacking the patience to get a ride height tool? I now have manufactured one , but it will only generate measurements relating to my tool from now on.

And, it would be really interesting and good value going ahead to understand "the angle" .

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Old May 18th 2017, 08:52 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Calderara di Reno View Post
But the question I'm looking for , have I adjusted my height to high, because of cog and chain change, and lacking the patience to get a ride height tool? I now have manufactured one , but it will only generate measurements relating to my tool from now on.

And, it would be really interesting and good value going ahead to understand "the angle" .
You can also measure the unloaded free length of your rear shock from eyelet-to-eyelet center as a baseline to compare. Ohlins' baseline is 306mm (+/- 2mm) on that, for racing, or at least it was a few years ago when I got that from them. So if you're more than a few mm longer than that, you may be right that you've gone too high.
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Old May 18th 2017, 01:43 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by tack514 View Post
...I used a trackday to try and sit as far back as possible...
Interesting that this was one of the first changes the BSB teams made to the early 1199R. I remember Baiocco using a tank extension to move his seated position rearwards. The teams (BSB and WSB) are using lightened and lengthened swingarms this year.

I've got some pictures somewhere. I'll try to dig them out
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Old May 18th 2017, 02:19 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by jarelj View Post
You can also measure the unloaded free length of your rear shock from eyelet-to-eyelet center as a baseline to compare. Ohlins' baseline is 306mm (+/- 2mm) on that, for racing, or at least it was a few years ago when I got that from them. So if you're more than a few mm longer than that, you may be right that you've gone too high.
Guess what,i'm using an adjustable link rod too. I have the 41 cog installed with 2 extra links and being a 1299 it should mimick the 1199r . Its pushing winter here now, but doesnt get that bad , so track days are finished for a while. My local track, which is not a bad standard, with 40 enclosed garages can be hired privately for 6 guys at $80/bike. Might have to do an R&D day.
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Old May 18th 2017, 02:35 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Calderara di Reno View Post
Guess what,i'm using an adjustable link rod too. I have the 41 cog installed with 2 extra links and being a 1299 it should mimick the 1199r . Its pushing winter here now, but doesnt get that bad , so track days are finished for a while. My local track, which is not a bad standard, with 40 enclosed garages can be hired privately for 6 guys at $80/bike. Might have to do an R&D day.
You're just full of complications, huh!?!? We messed around with the adjustable link rods for a while, but after spending some time with the Mupo guys who set up the Barni WSBK bikes a couple years ago, they were very adamant that Ducati Corse specified that dimension never be changed and they were using stock link rods just like the Aruba.it bikes were. So we went back to stock length on the rods and used the shock length only to change the ride height from that point forward.
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Old May 19th 2017, 02:05 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by jarelj View Post
You're just full of complications, huh!?!? We messed around with the adjustable link rods for a while, but after spending some time with the Mupo guys who set up the Barni WSBK bikes a couple years ago, they were very adamant that Ducati Corse specified that dimension never be changed and they were using stock link rods just like the Aruba.it bikes were. So we went back to stock length on the rods and used the shock length only to change the ride height from that point forward.
thanks for that advice, I wondered when fitting the rod how it may affect the leverage equations or whatever by adjusting that side of the lever. Maybe equal adjustments from shock and rod would be the most accurate or neutral. Shit, I bought a base to keep it simple !
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