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Old Feb 22nd 2018, 12:22 AM   #21
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I’m assuming that once the pot is placed in series with the temperature probe, the readout on the screen of what temperature of the water is will also be incorrect
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Old Feb 22nd 2018, 08:07 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Iím assuming that once the pot is placed in series with the temperature probe, the readout on the screen of what temperature of the water is will also be incorrect
This is a very good point and question.

It could also be a place for some of the more technical members (or some that claim to be) to share there metal and advise?
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Old Feb 22nd 2018, 12:26 PM   #23
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Before you put a resistor of any kind variable or fixed in the temp sensor circuit you better be sure that the temp sensor only runs the fan and is not the same senor used by the ecu for engine temp. This would screw-up your bikes a/f if it was the same sensor.
I believe the Panigale only has one temp sensor used by the ECU for fueling and fan control so that idea is a no go. (I may be wrong about one sensor never really looked) Your options at this point then are manual override switch or Reflash the ECU with lower turn on point. I don't know if any of the interceptor style boxes change the fan turn on point.
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Old Feb 22nd 2018, 12:57 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by rpm429 View Post
Before you put a resistor of any kind variable or fixed in the temp sensor circuit you better be sure that the temp sensor only runs the fan and is not the same senor used by the ecu for engine temp. This would screw-up your bikes a/f if it was the same sensor.
I believe the Panigale only has one temp sensor used by the ECU for fueling and fan control so that idea is a no go. (I may be wrong about one sensor never really looked) Your options at this point then are manual override switch or Reflash the ECU with lower turn on point. I don't know if any of the interceptor style boxes change the fan turn on point.
This is a very good point.

Cheers
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Old Feb 22nd 2018, 12:59 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Chill View Post
Iím assuming that once the pot is placed in series with the temperature probe, the readout on the screen of what temperature of the water is will also be incorrect
Yes it will, and see the point made by rpm29 below.

Cheers
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Old Feb 22nd 2018, 06:53 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Captain Greg View Post
This is a very good point and question.

It could also be a place for some of the more technical members (or some that claim to be) to share there metal and advise?
I believe in his bike build Endodoc put a switch on his fan to activate it at a lower temp than factory. I don't know that he is on here as frequently as he used to. Gecko is also a smart guy, but I haven't seen him in on here in a few.
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Old Feb 23rd 2018, 10:14 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Halo2 View Post
Going to have head gasket issues much later on letting coolant reach that high all the time.
Nah - 200-220 F is very safe with a good synthetic oil, my Kawasaki 300X t-stat is closer to 250-260F
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Old Feb 23rd 2018, 10:21 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by ultra300x View Post
Nah - 200-220 F is very safe with a good synthetic oil, my Kawasaki 300X t-stat is closer to 250-260F
Quick google
Thats a oil thermostat though, it has no thermostat for cooling.
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Old Feb 23rd 2018, 10:24 PM   #29
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True - but oil and water temps (in a closed loop system) are about the same once the motor gets up to temp, obviously it takes the oil much longer to reach that temp from a cold start. The Kawasaki is not closed loop cooling
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Old Feb 23rd 2018, 10:50 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by cmh210 View Post
I believe in his bike build Endodoc put a switch on his fan to activate it at a lower temp than factory. I don't know that he is on here as frequently as he used to. Gecko is also a smart guy, but I haven't seen him in on here in a few.
Thanks... I'm still here, and I'm still doing funny stuff to my Panigales :-)
I'm frustrated because all the old posts on the forum have their attached pictures deleted.

Temperature: There is only one engine temperature sensor. Data is used by ECU, Dashbaord and BBS. BBS then controls the fan. I wouldn't change anything that changes the sensors readout values!

The solution with a relay shown in the vid is pretty good. If you're not fond of mechanical relays you can do the same with a MOSFET.

Simplest would be a mechanical switch that switches between BBS output and 12Vdc: Fan would then be Auto or permanently on.

Did anybody check whether Dash throws an error if fan is not connected?
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