Go Back   Ducati Forum > Ducati Panigale Forum > Ducati 1299

Ducati 1299 Ducati 1299 Forum - Ducati 1299 Panigale Superbike Motorcycle Forum


Thanks Tree9Thanks
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Feb 25th 2018, 05:34 AM   #31
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2014
From: Singapore

Posts: 29
Thanks: 5

I did a manual switch for the fan, just direct wired it to the battery using one of the 10A fuse between the fan and battery as protection. Whenever the temp hit 82-85C, I will turn it on, and it will maintain below 92C unless I happen to be caught in traffic, even then it will take quite bad traffic for the temp to hit past 102C. Very easy and good fix to manage the engine heat.

BUT, take note that the ecu will control the fan to come on at 104C, and if that happens when you had manually turned on the fan, it will throw all sorts of errors on the dash. What I did was when the temp went up to 103C, I will turn off the fan and let the ecu turn it on at 104C. Once it’s turn on, I will manually turn on the fan again so it will not cut off at 100C. A little bit of hassle but it’s something very easy to wire up in the home garage.

To further help with engine heat, I had also recently installed the Booster Plug, it tricked the AIT to read 20C lower in air temp, then ‘tricking’ the ecu to inject in more fuel due to cooler air being denser and containing more oxygen. Had the first ride yesterday and butt felt that heat are coming from the headers rather than from the engine when previously I can actually feel 2 different sets of heat. The booster plug is plug and play, but a hassle to access the AIT sensor which is at the back of our dash. It also has a external sensor which I installed it just under the cowling.

Do note that in Singapore, average temp in the day is about 33C-34C all year round, sometimes going as high as 34-35C

All in all, satisfied with this 2 simple mods.
Thanks from Captain Greg
meng is offline  
 
Old Feb 25th 2018, 08:28 AM   #32
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2016
From: Cape town

Posts: 409
Thanks: 111

I Ride: KTM Duke R 1299 Pani YZF450 Saxon
Thumbs up

Originally Posted by Gecko View Post
Thanks... I'm still here, and I'm still doing funny stuff to my Panigales :-)
I'm frustrated because all the old posts on the forum have their attached pictures deleted.

Temperature: There is only one engine temperature sensor. Data is used by ECU, Dashbaord and BBS. BBS then controls the fan. I wouldn't change anything that changes the sensors readout values!

The solution with a relay shown in the vid is pretty good. If you're not fond of mechanical relays you can do the same with a MOSFET.

Simplest would be a mechanical switch that switches between BBS output and 12Vdc: Fan would then be Auto or permanently on.

Did anybody check whether Dash throws an error if fan is not connected?
Thank you for this, can I ask if there is a problem with the 12V positive at the fan going back into the circuit when the ECU switches it on? or if its off and the ECU is still below switching temp? Or is that what your asking? will it then not be possible to add a diode of suitable current carrying capacity in the line that we break to connect the relay and manual switch>? this will then prohibit the ECU detecting the +12 on the line, and from my understanding a diode will only show a voltage drop of 0.6Volts so the fan will still get sufficient volts when the ECU switches it on at 104C?

Gecko what is BBS? sorry bud Im not a software guy and have very limited computer skills Im also not scared to try and and make a plan.

I think your post was one of the most contributing in this thread
Captain Greg is offline  
Old Feb 25th 2018, 10:14 AM   #33
Senior Member
 
Gecko's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2012
From: Switzerland

Posts: 1,821
Thanks: 1728

I Ride: 1199 SL, 1199S Tri, 1299S Anni, MV Agusta F4 750, M1200S, M696, Husaberg FS650e, Petronas FP1
Originally Posted by Captain Greg View Post
Thank you for this, can I ask if there is a problem with the 12V positive at the fan going back into the circuit when the ECU switches it on? or if its off and the ECU is still below switching temp? Or is that what your asking? will it then not be possible to add a diode of suitable current carrying capacity in the line that we break to connect the relay and manual switch>? this will then prohibit the ECU detecting the +12 on the line, and from my understanding a diode will only show a voltage drop of 0.6Volts so the fan will still get sufficient volts when the ECU switches it on at 104C?

Gecko what is BBS? sorry bud Im not a software guy and have very limited computer skills Im also not scared to try and and make a plan.

I think your post was one of the most contributing in this thread
BBS is not a piece of software, it's the small black box below the seat. Instead of the the ECU this device controls the fan (pin 1).
If it is really the case that the dash throws errors whilst the fan is not detected when the BBS tries to power it up, I would go the route with two high current diodes.

One from BBS output to the fan 12Vdc input.
The other from a 12Vdc switch to the fan 12Vdc input.
Gecko is offline  
Old Feb 25th 2018, 11:59 AM   #34
Senior Member
 
GunMoto's Avatar
 
Joined: Oct 2015
From: Orange County, CA

Posts: 210
Thanks: 120

I Ride: Alpaca
Originally Posted by Gecko View Post
Did anybody check whether Dash throws an error if fan is not connected?
Yes, dash throws error when BBS ignites fan but fan not present. When fan not present and BBS is not igniting fan, then no dash error.

EDIT: I wired an SPDT relay for the fan so I can manually turn on the fan or let BBS control switching. But when I have the fan manually on, a dash error occurs when engine temp reaches factory temp threshold to cue BBS to ignite the fan but the fan is not present.

Last edited by GunMoto; Feb 25th 2018 at 12:06 PM.
GunMoto is offline  
Old Feb 25th 2018, 12:56 PM   #35
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2013
From: Orlando

Posts: 111
Thanks: 64

I Ride: 13' 1199 R
You could use this https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...019%7CL3*15910
It is rated for up to 16amps, cut the wire going from the fan to pin one. Install a dropping resistor on the side going to pin one to simulate the fan still being there and run a new wire from the battery to the thermostatic switch to the fan. use proper fuse and such.
I've used them on some "street" racecars and it always worked fine, Never got use to inserting things through the fins of a radiator, I haven't done it to the bike since I have tuneboy and the base tune has a lowered fan turn on point, woolich racing allows you to set any point as well on there ECU flashes

Last edited by rpm429; Feb 25th 2018 at 01:05 PM.
rpm429 is offline  
Old Feb 25th 2018, 01:49 PM   #36
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2014
From: Singapore

Posts: 29
Thanks: 5

I am not an electrical trained guy so I am actually not sure why that happened. When I do the same mod on my previous jap bikes, they all dun exhibit this symptoms. The theory that I can come out with is that ducati, in their quest to reduce weight, the wires they use for electronic stuff are so carefully calculated in terms of their loading that any fluctuations in the current especially higher that is required, will throw an error, to prevent the wires or components wiring from overloading and causing electrical fire.

Could be a case of the ecu thinking “okay, engine temp is high, time to switch in the fan. Hang on, enough current is already being fed to the fan to turn it on, could it be current leak? Better throw error code” and all the errors start showing up and we panic.... so I let the ecu do the work of turning on the fan, then with the fan already on, I just manually “join” in manual switching on of the fan.

But I do not understand and know why when the ecu cuts off the fan and the manual switch is keeping the fan running, the ecu doesn’t think “ time to off fan, how come fan still running? Time to throw error code”. Probably could be that to turn on the fan, the ecu need to activate certain amount of current to start the fan, but to turn off, there’s no need to, but in fact current is just reduced when cut.

These are just my simple explanation I tell myself how it works, and so far so good for me
meng is offline  
Old Mar 5th 2018, 10:09 AM   #37
Member
 
Joined: Dec 2017
From: Osoyoos,B.C ,Canada

Posts: 56
Thanks: 12

THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST THREADS !!! that I have read in a long while . Thanx to all who contributed to keeping my nuts cool this summer .
I too have noticed that there are two distinct heat sources .Exauhst Wrap is on my shopping list , anyone out there having done that I would appreciate input to this thread .
Together ,exauhst wrap & switch ,would make our Panis a very Comfortable ride I would think ?
If you're stuck in traffic and your nether regions are being baked ,you are not riding SAFE,CAUSE YOUR MIND IS ELSEWHERE !!! Even losing a few seconds to thinking about something besides being SAFE puts you in HARM'S WAY .COMFORT MEANS ,YOU GET TO PAY ATTENTION TO YOUR RIDE . again , Thank You for this information .
loki99er is offline  
Old Mar 7th 2018, 11:00 PM   #38
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2016
From: Cape town

Posts: 409
Thanks: 111

I Ride: KTM Duke R 1299 Pani YZF450 Saxon
Dont want to hijack this thread....can anyone confirm if the V4 runs cooler to the feel?? I have yet to find any info on this or any complaints regarding heat on the V4
Captain Greg is offline  
Reply

  Ducati Forum > Ducati Panigale Forum > Ducati 1299

Tags
1299, cooler, degrees, found, interesting, run, video, youtube



Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Discussions
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Another interesting 1299 Review... 80shilling Ducati 1299 9 Feb 8th 2015 05:30 PM
Throttle housing rotates 365 degrees DynastySS Mechanical and Technical 12 Jan 31st 2015 03:13 PM
24.5 to 24 degrees Thamer Ducati 1299 19 Nov 30th 2014 02:02 AM
ICE on dash at 2 degrees. Panigaleman Ducati 1199 18 Jan 1st 2014 04:39 PM
Finally a good youtube video! luke Ride Reports 9 Dec 16th 2012 08:40 AM


Facebook Twitter Google+ RSS Feed