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Old Jun 3rd 2019, 10:28 AM   #11
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Here is a pic of were you can find the kickstand bypass plug. left side of the bike below the battery tray.

bypass.JPG



Originally Posted by youngR View Post
thanks for the info. I will look for the kickstand bypass but trying to remember where it was. it was pretty hot day for sure in NC. I believe previous owner sent the ECU overseas and had ABS and kickstand removed from the ECU but I can verify.

Pitt race was interesting for sure. I was completely lost on my 1st session and didnt know what I was doing with all the elevation changes and blind turns but got much better as the day went.
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Old Jun 3rd 2019, 11:35 AM   #12
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I have been running the BSD bypass for quite some time now with the old and new versions of the Translogic shift sensors. No issues at all so what we are finding out is if your running a true strainguage like Woolrich, Tuneboy or Cordona you will run into some issues with the bypass.


Originally Posted by Blade Runner View Post
Here is a pic of were you can find the kickstand bypass plug. left side of the bike below the battery tray.

Attachment 25944
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Old Jun 3rd 2019, 12:00 PM   #13
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I Ride: 1299R Final Edition
Can someone summarize the translogic QC vs OEM? I have 1299FE

Is it just the rod replaced?


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Old Jun 3rd 2019, 02:09 PM   #14
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The complete rod and unit itself. The OEM setup is junk toss it.


Originally Posted by SpartanGA View Post
Can someone summarize the translogic QC vs OEM? I have 1299FE

Is it just the rod replaced?


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Old Jun 3rd 2019, 02:12 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Mick1976 View Post
The complete rod and unit itself. The OEM setup is junk toss it.


Plug and play? No issues with my race upmap I assume.

I can definitely see how it could be improved.


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Old Jun 3rd 2019, 02:25 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by SpartanGA View Post
Plug and play? No issues with my race upmap I assume.

I can definitely see how it could be improved.


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Plug and play but if your rearset does not have a mechanical stop then it's suggested that you upgrade the rod. The one from Translogic is aluminum. If you don't have a mechanical stop on your rearset it puts too much strain on the rod and will eventually break. My AEM rearset has a mechanical stop so I haven't had any issues with the aluminum rod.

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Old Jun 3rd 2019, 03:15 PM   #17
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Glad it all worked out. The shift rods that ship with the TL units are a bit fragile. The one I sent YoungR was 7075 T6 cut to length, internally threaded at both ends. I use M6 Titanium threaded rod to make the male stud at the QS side and Ti nuts to lock it all down. Mick also makes a nice stainless rod to length if anyone needs something. Not having tried the strain gauge setup before, I have since gone to the Cordona unit and must say that Itís a step closer to a tiptronic feel. I will be installing the Nova SBK CR gearbox later this month to complete what I am hoping will be a much improved transmission system. Currently with the lightech rear sets, modified shift shaft housing and the Cordona SGQS, there is zero play in the shift linkage. The lightech lever is a direct lever to shift rod setup with zero sub linkage components which gives you a very precise setup.
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Old Jun 3rd 2019, 05:19 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by endodoc View Post
Glad it all worked out. The shift rods that ship with the TL units are a bit fragile. The one I sent YoungR was 7075 T6 cut to length, internally threaded at both ends. I use M6 Titanium threaded rod to make the male stud at the QS side and Ti nuts to lock it all down. Mick also makes a nice stainless rod to length if anyone needs something. Not having tried the strain gauge setup before, I have since gone to the Cordona unit and must say that Itís a step closer to a tiptronic feel. I will be installing the Nova SBK CR gearbox later this month to complete what I am hoping will be a much improved transmission system. Currently with the lightech rear sets, modified shift shaft housing and the Cordona SGQS, there is zero play in the shift linkage. The lightech lever is a direct lever to shift rod setup with zero sub linkage components which gives you a very precise setup.
thanks. it worked great and cant wait to see your new setup.
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Old Jun 3rd 2019, 08:34 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by endodoc View Post
Glad it all worked out. The shift rods that ship with the TL units are a bit fragile. The one I sent YoungR was 7075 T6 cut to length, internally threaded at both ends. I use M6 Titanium threaded rod to make the male stud at the QS side and Ti nuts to lock it all down. Mick also makes a nice stainless rod to length if anyone needs something. Not having tried the strain gauge setup before, I have since gone to the Cordona unit and must say that Itís a step closer to a tiptronic feel. I will be installing the Nova SBK CR gearbox later this month to complete what I am hoping will be a much improved transmission system. Currently with the lightech rear sets, modified shift shaft housing and the Cordona SGQS, there is zero play in the shift linkage. The lightech lever is a direct lever to shift rod setup with zero sub linkage components which gives you a very precise setup.
Can you share how you modified the shift shaft linkage to remove the play?

I have aftermarket rear sets and the TL Quickshifter but it almost seems all for not as there is still a ton of slop in the shift shaft itself which I thought was incurable?
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Old Jun 3rd 2019, 08:48 PM   #20
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If you have one of the older TL units they develop slop fairly quick and you won't be able to do anything with that. The new units are quite a bit better. We just machine a one piece rod in TI or SS it's more solid then the TL aluminum rod without all the connection points.


Originally Posted by W Cole View Post
Can you share how you modified the shift shaft linkage to remove the play?

I have aftermarket rear sets and the TL Quickshifter but it almost seems all for not as there is still a ton of slop in the shift shaft itself which I thought was incurable?
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