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Old Apr 23rd 2014, 02:37 PM   #31
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So the idea is to use the 3m protector.

Is this something worth applying professionally? What would it cost to have it applied by someone who knows what they are doing?
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Old Apr 24th 2014, 12:33 AM   #32
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You could go online and find people who do it and get a quote.

I think it's around $500 here in OZ.
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Old Apr 24th 2014, 08:58 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by JosephManderley View Post
So the idea is to use the 3m protector.

Is this something worth applying professionally? What would it cost to have it applied by someone who knows what they are doing?
Perhaps it is like in Switzerland? Most of the shops that offer a full car wrapping also offer stone chip wrap stuff with 3M etc.

I did some parts on my 1199 on myself (tank and upper fairing where the knees rub the paint), I think if a pro does it, you can not tell any difference to a piece without a wrap.
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Old Feb 20th 2015, 03:14 PM   #34
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I have a 1098, and was just thinking of switching to a 899, now I've got over the double-sided swing-arm, b&w display, and other cost-saving changes, so doing some research.

Now I find that there's no clear coat on the red bike, and this is putting me off again.

How many different ways do they need to cut costs on a 13K (UK) bike?
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Old Feb 23rd 2015, 08:39 PM   #35
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Maybe I can offer some advice...

First, let me quickly qualify myself. I have owned an operated a high-level detail business for almost 9 years, traveled the world, and used to do state-side prep for Bugatti USA... Bella Macchina: The Art of Detailing

Second, I worked as a product developer for Autogeek/PBMG (which manufacturers the product line "Pinnacle" named earlier in this thread). I was the Director of Development for their Autopia brand and BLACKFIRE Car Care Products. I have also worked with Meguiar's on the development of their DA Microfiber System.

Third, I am the current national technical sales manager for RUPES SpA, which is an Italian tool manufacturer who makes a line of polishers, compounds and pads. We work with several OEM and aftermarket paint suppliers and I have direct access to several paint chemists.

All of that said...

I have a 2013 Diavel Carbon Red, and the paint on that is also a single stage. This likely made it easier to paint over the carbon and remove the tape lines wet.

Basically single stage paint (modern single stage) combines the color and protective elements into one (colored) layer, usually comprised of several coats.

Base coat / clear coat is the typical type of paint found on most bikes (and cars). The difference that the first layer of paint is the color or tint and the second layer is clear. Most, if not all, of the protective ingredients in the system are in the clear coat.

However, clear coat is not really a clear coating, it is simply a mostly transparent clear paint. Most clear coat is not completely clear, but rather has a white or yellow tint when sprayed thick enough.

Some paint jobs, like the one on my Tricolore, feature a combination of all of the types of paint, plush graphics, which are then cleared over completely.

So what does this all mean for you?

The old single-stage enamel and nitro cellulose (lacquer) paints used to oxidize fairly quickly. It wasn't uncommon to see cars in the 1960s completely oxidized (dull) on the dealer lots. However, other than being tinted, the paint on your 899 is much much better...

Treat the paint on your 899 the same as you would any other modern painted surface. Wash it carefully using pH-neutral car soaps and soft media. Dry it carefully with soft microfiber towels. Avoid doing anything that rubs grit over the surface. Protect the finish with a high-quality wax, sealant or paint coating.

The only major difference you may notice is that if you use a chemically or mechanically abrasive polish to remove scratches or surface blemishes you will notice some color. The paint may or may not be more susceptible to chemical staining from gasoline, bird bombs etc.
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Old Feb 24th 2015, 05:43 AM   #36
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I used opti-coat 2.0. .....we will see how well it holds up this summer
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Old Aug 31st 2016, 07:17 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by 92GTA View Post
My issue is removing bug guts. I'm using new microfiber cloths and I have Rain-X bug and tar remover. Even then and a wash with a good car wash soap, there were like "ghost" shadows in the paint on the nose fairing where the worse of the bug guts were. I'm worried about hurting the paint and making scratches swirls trying to remove them. I suspect I'm going to have to, then do something to protect the nose fairing like thick coat of wax.

Any suggestions? Thanks! This is on a red 899 btw!
When I come home - I usually soak a few paper towels in warm water - wring them out(-ish) - drape them over the front fairing and my helmet, let it soak for a bit, remove and wipe dry with a microfiber cloth. Process only takes me a few minutes.
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Old Aug 31st 2016, 07:20 PM   #38
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Holy necro-thread batman
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Old Aug 31st 2016, 08:32 PM   #39
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Less paint - less weight. Fine with me.
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Old Sep 1st 2016, 04:51 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by Phl View Post
Less paint - less weight. Fine with me.
I don't buy the less paint theory. I have measured the paint thickness on several modern Ducati's, and have never found any area that I would consider thin, or at least thinner than most OEM finishes. I have found various inconsistencies, but nothing less than 4 mils / 100 microns in total thickness. On my tank, the clear coat itself is roughly 2.5 mils, which is actually quite substantial. However, on one of the green stripes on the tail of the Tricolore only has 1.1 microns, which is thin, but not terrible.
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