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Old Oct 21st 2019, 09:13 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Desmolvr View Post
.. they also replaced the fluid with a high temp race spec.
This is exactly what my Ducati dealer also suggested doing at next service.
According to them 'Race spec' clutch oil remedies this 'boiling' issue for many (not all?) in most cases.

Indeed additionally REAL proper bleeding as @stealthblack is teaching us, might still be additionally required to cover for all suffering this issue?

Still why doesn't Bologna create a (forced) RCL or revise its existing TSB (i.e. hose only) for this potentially dangerous issue or at least actively advice dealers to also replace the OEM clutch-fluid with a WSBK/MotoGP alternative?

Makes sense to me to only put heat-resistant racing grade fluids in it, since all 1000cc+ Pani's are WSBK homologations and V4 is even a MotoGP derivative.
They obviously suffer even more if proper airflow -to cool them down- is absent when in city traffic!

Really, when this happened to me for the first time it was in the morning at cold start.
Ignorant and unaware of the issue at hand, the bike started rolling immediately.
All I could do with an almost fully engaged engine dragging the bike forward, was braking to force the bike to stop and stall the engine.
The alternative to engine key or kill-switch it off, would have have stopped the bike too abrupt I reckoned?
If I had only slightly panicked while dodging the pillars in that dark garage trying to stop the bike...

Last edited by RdashP; Nov 11th 2019 at 09:20 AM.
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Old Oct 21st 2019, 09:32 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by RdashP View Post
Today riding my V4s through busy city traffic, as the bike got toasty the clutch-lever got progressively more mushy to the point of barely disengaging.

Luckily I could quickly dail-in a few clicks more travel on my adjustable EP clutch lever, to increase the distance to grip for maximizing the remaining functional travel.

Funny enough after it cooled down for an hour or so, away to an exhibition, when I returned most of the fade was gone and no need to bleed the master cylinder with wrench-no.11 as I was required to do before once.

Again, after 45 minutes of trouble free highway cruising, back in slow traffic the progressive clutch fade started again. Within 15 minutes, I barely had any functional clutch-function left just enough to make it home.

The TSB for a narrower clutchhose between master- and slave cylinder is already installed on my V4S.

If clutch travel returns after cool-down of the V4 and fade only occurs during slow traffic, is this also a reason to replace the clutch its master- a/o slave cylinder?

This ^^ happens to me on almost every ride. I've bled the clutch, next ride it still happens. Adjusting hand lever to compensate for the issue is the only thing that gets me home. And just like you, it's downtown city stop/go traffic situations where it all goes wrong on me.
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Old Nov 7th 2019, 12:48 PM   #23
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I had the same problem Fosterelli. I had the recall/SB completed earlier and still it felt like I had a clutch fade issue in traffic, parking lots, etc. I paid Motocorsa to flush the system and it was still an issue. Took it back and they replaced the clutch slave cylinder. Works 100% better now. They said it was leaking.
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Old Nov 8th 2019, 12:50 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by YouUh View Post
I had the same problem Fosterelli. I had the recall/SB completed earlier and still it felt like I had a clutch fade issue in traffic, parking lots, etc. I paid Motocorsa to flush the system and it was still an issue. Took it back and they replaced the clutch slave cylinder. Works 100% better now. They said it was leaking.
This is a completely different issue. If the slave cylinder is leaking it will produce a fade because there is no pressure.
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Old Nov 8th 2019, 12:53 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by RdashP View Post
This is exactly what my Ducati dealer also suggested doing at next service.
According to them 'Race spec' clutch oil remedies this 'boiling' issue for many (not all?) in most cases.

Indeed additionally REAL proper bleeding as @stealthblack is teaching us, might still be additionally required to cover for all suffering this issue?

Still why doesn't Bologna create a (forced) RCL or revise its existing TSB (i.e. hose only) for this potentially dangerous issue or at least actively advice dealers to also replace the OEM clutch-fluid with a WSBK/MotoGP alternative?

Makes sense to me to only put heat-resistant racing grade fluids in it, since all 1000cc+ Pani's are WSBK homologations and V4 is even a MotoGP derivative.
They obviously suffer even more if proper airflow -to cool them down- is absent!

Really, when this happened to me for the first time it was in the morning at cold start.
Ignorant and unaware of the issue at hand, the bike started rolling immediately.
All I could do with an almost fully engaged engine dragging the bike forward, was braking to force the bike to stop and stall the engine.
The alternative to engine key or kill-switch it off, would have have stopped the bike too abrupt I reckoned?
If I had only slightly panicked while dodging the pillars in that dark garage trying to stop the bike...
Does anyone have a clue what is 'race spec' is?
Its just brake fluid so what would would the next step be?
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Old Nov 10th 2019, 10:59 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by shade View Post
Does anyone have a clue what is 'race spec' is?
Its just brake fluid so what would would the next step be?
my Bella is now at dealer for annual service.
Once done I'll ask for which brand and special 'racing' type they replaced the standard clutch oil with...
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