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Old Jul 26th 2012, 06:29 PM   #11
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Flipped my linkage over the other day. It was giving me the shits

Bike feels NICE! compared to the 848!
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Old Jul 27th 2012, 06:46 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Rhino View Post
Flipped my linkage over the other day. It was giving me the shits

Bike feels NICE! compared to the 848!
Its not the suspension that loosening you up ..... its the power
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Old Jul 27th 2012, 06:56 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by rhino View Post
flipped my linkage over the other day. It was giving me the shits !
yikes!
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Old Aug 6th 2012, 12:03 PM   #14
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I Ride: '12 1199 S ABS, '03 ST4S
SSDriver & gman74: Presuming you used a torque wrench, what torque values did you use for reassembly? TIA

Last edited by capnjack52; Aug 6th 2012 at 01:08 PM.
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Old Aug 6th 2012, 01:29 PM   #15
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You do not need to go through all that. All you need is a cheapy automotive jack. Simply remove the rear hugger, pre loosen the F/P bolt and nut, and then remove the load off the spring by increasing jack height until you can spin the loosened bolt by hand. See my picture below.



As for the torque values, I measured and used 5 ft lbs on the pinch bolt screw and 24 ft lbs on two bolts depicted below. You do not need to loosen the torx bolt as it pivots anyway.



This method can be done with the bike sitting on the ground on the side stand. I only had my pitbull stand in place because I was doing several jobs at once. You also do not need a long wrench to remove the buried bolt for the other end of the linkage.

This job can be done in 15 minutes.
Attached Thumbnails
How to: change F to P on rear shock-rear-suspension.jpg   How to: change F to P on rear shock-suspension.jpg  

Last edited by cooljam7; Aug 27th 2012 at 02:41 PM.
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Old Aug 6th 2012, 01:31 PM   #16
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Was about to post a tutorial on how to do this over on 1199forums, since I couldnt find good info on it elsewhere, but I never found the time.

I'm glad someone else did
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Old Aug 18th 2012, 06:28 PM   #17
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Great thread, thanks to all. Just to be clear, FLAT is the choice for the track, right?
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Old Aug 19th 2012, 04:33 AM   #18
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per the manual flat is the choice for all riding except two up. But most everyone is running P now I think. The suspension guy suggested after he sorted my suspension at the last track day I might want to give FLAT a try again for the street.

Originally Posted by Grey Goose View Post
Great thread, thanks to all. Just to be clear, FLAT is the choice for the track, right?
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Old Aug 19th 2012, 08:22 AM   #19
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Once I go pro there's no turning back! Lol
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Old Aug 27th 2012, 09:06 PM   #20
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What about the ride height? By changing the rod length and moving the pivot hole, the ride height will change. In order to get it exactly where it was, what is the number of exposed threads (or the exact length of the threads) so that we get the ride height perfect (or at least at stock specs)? I bought 2-step softer rear spring from Dan Kyle, and on the F setting it is still too stiff. Dan suggested I move it to P as a next step. Hopefully this will do the trick, or next up is shock revalving (compression circuits) and possibly softer still on the rear spring (I weigh 190# plus gear). Thanks in advance for the advise.
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