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Old Feb 17th 2015, 08:21 AM   #11
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Thanks, guys! I'll get right on it.
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Old Feb 17th 2015, 08:38 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by mrbrettbaker View Post
Xbox is absolutely right. My racebike loses it's "clutch feel" after a few weeks of sitting. Unless you have opened the system for repair, there is no reason to totally bleed the system for this inherent problem our bikes have. Crack the bleeder a 1/4 or half turn, wrap a rag around the area for safety sake, and slooooowly squeeze lever until fluid comes to the top of the inside of the bleeder. While holding the lever, tighten bleeder. If someone tells you that you need to use a hose on the bleeder, ask them how they get the fluid out of the hose where it connects to bleeder after they are done. When I do it my way, I don't have a single drip. I have yey to figure out how to get the hose empty before I remove it when done the other way
I put a hose over the nipple and put the hose's other end in a bottle on the floor. After I am done I take the hose carefully off the nipple and suction pulls the brake fluid in the hose safely down into the bottle (its like sucking fuel through a hose from your tank - gravity feed). I have yet to spill a drop when I disconnect the hose.

I had to do it yesterday as the Dragon Lady's clutch was suddenly non operational for the first time in three years. I changed the brake fluid at the same time as it was probably time to do so.
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Old Feb 17th 2015, 02:10 PM   #13
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Don't forget to cover the dash.

I use a hose, into a 5g bucket, tiny little hole in the lid for the hose, and another to vent. Same bucket I use for truck brakes. Little bottles tip over or let the hose snap out splattering fluid all over brand new paint. I wrap the hose with a rag when I rip it off.

Using a rag alone is fine in the field.
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Old Feb 17th 2015, 02:27 PM   #14
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Wow ..all this fuss...11mm wrench and paper towel... done...
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Old Feb 17th 2015, 04:16 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Stw View Post
Wow ..all this fuss...11mm wrench and paper towel... done...
What he said
Had to do this every 600 miles until DNA finally decided to replace the master.
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Old Feb 18th 2015, 01:58 AM   #16
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Zaster, was the new master different? I've love to know why these keep doing this
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Old Feb 22nd 2015, 06:48 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by mrbrettbaker View Post
Zaster, was the new master different? I've love to know why these keep doing this
Exactly, Master Zaster: please tell us more about your master disaster. The adjustment intervals are now much vaster?

I'm such a bastard ;-)
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Old Mar 10th 2015, 07:21 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by luke View Post
Exactly, Master Zaster: please tell us more about your master disaster. The adjustment intervals are now much vaster?

I'm such a bastard ;-)
Love it

Not sure what the dealership replaced it with but I'm told getting an aftermarket master is the only lasting solution.
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Old Oct 12th 2015, 04:49 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Xbox View Post
IF you want to check for air that may have risen to the bleed nipple:

- remove rubber nipple cover
- loosen bleed nipple 1 turn
- apply slightest pressure to lever and see if fluid weeps a tiny drop
- if no fluid shows, open nipple a further 1/2 turn
- close nipple and done

This worked perfectly well for me.
Awesome tutorial. Ive been wanting to do a full bleed on my clutch since after an hour or once the bike is really warmed up the clutch can barely disengage. Even with the lever pulled all the way in its hard to down shift and IMPOSSIBLE to get to neutral. Once I found this method out, I tried it and worked!

1/4 turn to loosen the bleed nut and then pulled the lever in until I could see a bit of fluid reach the very end of the hole. Kept pressure on the lever and tightened the nut back and released. Now the clutch disengages where it should be, with out having to pull the lever all the way in.

So many thanks again, this has saved me a trip to the shop.
Thanks from Steve92smith
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Old Oct 12th 2015, 06:36 PM   #20
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Well, the new OEM master didn't fix the problem.
There is an unofficial fix CR112(TSB-15-001) that did the job though.
Since it is not advertised by DNA you need to ask your dealer.
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