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Old Aug 31st 2017, 09:21 AM   #101
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I use a 1m breaker bar but I'm pretty sure my rear wheel nut is not 230nm which is crazy tight. It's different if you're just road riding and not touching it for a year but on track you are changing it every few days so I have no fears having it a bit looser.
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Old Aug 31st 2017, 10:01 AM   #102
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Exactly my sentiments
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Old Aug 31st 2017, 10:23 AM   #103
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Originally Posted by Snk1199 View Post
Exactly my sentiments
I don't think anyone has ever come across folk losing a wheel etc,
but its given a torque for a reason. Why pluck 180 out of the air, why
not 120 or 100 etc etc.

Having worked with much bigger values on large machinery, I have seen plenty
of things go pop over the years due to incorrect tightening, with damage costing
millions of dollars.

Your bike, your choice mate. Personally, I will stick with the makers specs.
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Old Aug 31st 2017, 12:27 PM   #104
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Don't get me wrong, I appreciate educated advice. I am just uncertain how much is practical risk and how much is over-securing the user. All of my mates I am riding with aren't even using a torque wrench for track servicing. I am tightening to 180 because I feel even that is hard to get loose with conventional tools. I use an impact wrench. I don't feel at risk and it seems like there is no "hard data" on anything really going wrong with the rear nut/wheel. Thanks!
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Old Aug 31st 2017, 02:27 PM   #105
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I Ride: 2012 1199S ABS
Panigale 1199 rear wheel nut removal

my method:
solo
I use a rear axle stand because it provides sufficient stability.
Harbor Freight 1/2" cordless impact wrench, often available for $99.99, I have an air impact wrench too, but this one is very convenient. (this is the 18v model, they have a new higher powered 20v, but it is $100 more)
Bike in neutral, don't need to apply brake, 10-15 seconds with impact wrench and nut comes off.

Clean all threads very well and grease when replacing, I use anti-seize directly under the nut and a little on the threads. My second choice would be marine wheel bearing grease because it fends off corrosion better in my experience.

STEEL 55mm shallow socket like the SpeedyMoto (with 30mm socket too). These have a pilot which helps you keep the socket well lined up.
Harbor Freight 3/4" torque wrench with 3/4"-1/2" adapter, $80 or less if you use their coupons.
hold the rear brake down with right hand, pull on the wrench with left, it is long enough without cheater tube.
160 #/ft.

For those with hard to get off nuts, Harbor Freight heat gun it first.
If that doesn't work, take your socket and 1"-1/2" or 3/4"-1/2" socket adapter and ride to your nearest tire shop and ask them to loosen it a little, ride back home and proceed. If you are worried about the wheel falling off, throw your 1/2" torque wrench in you backpack too and tighten to 100#/ft before you go home.

An impact wrench avoids the sweating, tipping you bike over....associated with a long wrench. Also lets you keep the socket fully lined up with the nut so you will distort the nut less. If you are worried about scratches on the nut, get another on E-bay, and polish it on a wire wheel after each use. Tape won't help you keep from rounding the edges of the nut if you can't keep the socket square with the nut.
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Old Aug 31st 2017, 07:52 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by Desmophile View Post
For those with hard to get off nuts, Harbor Freight heat gun it first.
I know I'm new to the forum, etc., but I did want the record to show that my nuts are not unusually hard to get off.

As for the wheel removal, I use an impact wrench and have no issues. It's fun!
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Old Sep 1st 2017, 01:59 AM   #107
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Haha
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Old Sep 1st 2017, 11:20 PM   #108
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When removing use one layer on electrical insulation tape to stop the nut from getting marked.
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