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Old May 5th 2018, 05:26 PM   #11
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What I'd be doing
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Old May 5th 2018, 05:28 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by able duc View Post
What I'd be doing
Ok,... thank you. I have just “trusted” this Ecu to this point. Good point. I’ll start seeing who can flash it to stock maps ASAP.
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Old May 5th 2018, 05:43 PM   #13
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Anyone in New Jersey that can help old mate with an ecu to try?
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Old May 6th 2018, 01:39 AM   #14
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I am not in nj, but if you need it, i have my 2014 1199S ecu you can try to test if that is the problem. Of course, I would need it back. Just pay shipping to and back.
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Old May 6th 2018, 02:24 AM   #15
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Try disabling the O2 sensors and do a log with proper wideband sensors. And check the load axis if you are using a tuning software, it will give you an indication of what's wrong.
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Old May 6th 2018, 09:11 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by henrypbui View Post
I am not in nj, but if you need it, i have my 2014 1199S ecu you can try to test if that is the problem. Of course, I would need it back. Just pay shipping to and back.
Ok, I'm going to try a few other things, quickshift and checking the clutch microswitch wiring, and if all else fails I'll take you up on this. Thank you very much for offering.
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Old May 6th 2018, 09:12 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by TurboLag View Post
Try disabling the O2 sensors and do a log with proper wideband sensors. And check the load axis if you are using a tuning software, it will give you an indication of what's wrong.
A proper wideband setup is also on my list. Looks like the blipbox and wideband will be coming sooner than i planned. Thank you very much!
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Old May 6th 2018, 02:01 PM   #18
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Alright,
This is going to be a long post, but I want to make sure I'm getting every detail I can out to the group.

Here are screen shots of my RB maps, and the status screen:

These first three are the ignition map screen. The first image is with key on, not running. The second image is at idle, and the third is with 25% throttle. Keep in mind that at 25% idle the bike is running like total shit.








These three images are going to be of CIL1 Injection. Same as before, first image is key on, not running. Second image is at idle, and third image is with 25% throttle.









These three images are of CIL2 Injection. Key on / not running, then idle, then 25%







The next three images are the status page, again key on /not running, idle, and 25%







These are the rest of the screens, all with key on / not running. 1st image is Auto Adaptivity, 2nd image is TC-LC and 3rd is Quick-Shifter. I have not touched any setting at all since I bought the RB Race module from a forum member.








I mention in the video that I was monitoring exhaust temps to see that both cylinders were firing. This is a shot of what I was doing. Basically blade taped a thermocouple to each header, right where the O2 sensors are located to make sure they were both at the same distance from the head.



Obviously that image is before running the bike as both pipes are at ambient temp. But watching both temps rise evenly with each other shows that both cylinders are firing. For example if one had rose to 400F and the other remained at 180F that would mean there is an issue with one of the cylinders not firing.

Alright, now lets look at the BrenTuning module. I used this to monitor TPS position as well as resetting the TPS. When the throttle is closed it shows 3 degrees, when wide open it shows 22 degrees. This is with the key on, not running. I actually did not manage to take a photo of this while the bike was running. I'll try to get a shot of that tomorrow.





The next shot is the trouble codes on the bike, just so everyone can see that the only two present after running and riding around the parking lot are in fact for the ECU not matching the Dash as posted previously.



And finally, another forum member suggested checking the clutch master cylinder micro switch. He stated that he had similar problems and found that a constant ground in the micro switch was to fault. I tested it,... when the clutch is not depressed, it's an open line as it should be, and when fully pulled in, as soon as the micro switch is engaged there is continuity in the circuit.









So, enough for this long post. I'm uploading the videos right now. Please keep the suggestions coming.

And again, I am absolutely not up with all the tuning tech and am a total idiot when it comes to fuel/ignition maps. There are folks on here that are geniuses when it comes to this. If you guys see something fishy with the maps please let me know. Thank you.
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Old May 6th 2018, 02:31 PM   #19
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Videos:





Thanks for taking a look at these videos, I know the video is shaky, and the sound sucks, but what can you expect from an old iPhone?

Thanks for the help guys....
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Old May 6th 2018, 03:20 PM   #20
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I would check this
Bike idling high after backfires!

There isn't a picture anymore but lower airbox gasket next to chassis supposably.
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Last edited by Halo2; May 7th 2018 at 04:40 AM.
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