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Old Sep 20th 2018, 08:04 AM   #11
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Thanks Jack!

Nathan, I have considered this is where the leak is coming from. However, it would have to be quite a bit of coolant that came out of there to cause the bike to smoke and end up in the airbox (maybe it's getting sucked up by that loose breather hose?) I cant really see the thermostat housing too well. I really hope it isnt coming from there since that will be a huge pain to fix.

My first step will be correcting the airbox clamps for those two hoses, then degreasing everything, refilling coolant and checking further for the coolant leak. Thanks all!
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Old Oct 4th 2018, 05:36 PM   #12
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I haven't had much time to work on the bike but I just started again and ran into another issue.

Upon reattaching the injectors and fuel tank the bike cranks but doesn't want to start. I've drained the battery twice trying to start it. I have got it started twice however, with long multiple cranks. I did leave the injectors and tank off for about a week. My mechanic friend said it was possible to have air in the system or fouled spark plugs. Can anyone comment on these assessments? Is there a bleed valve anywhere to bleed air from the system?

After starting the second time I think I figured out where the coolant leak is coming from. Picture one is the travel of the coolant. It looks to be wrapping around to the right of the top of the line I drew. Picture two is the area where I think the leak is originating. Does that look accurate?

Thanks in advance for the help! Hoping to get her ready for the last track day of the season in 2 weeks!



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Old Oct 5th 2018, 06:22 AM   #13
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Unfortunately, coolant leaks in and around the thermostat housing (squirter unit) are common. The squirter unit is Ducati’s “cash cow.” Any of the four hoses can leak where they attach to the housing. The vertical and horizontal hoses can leak where they attach to the cylinders. A leak can develop where the coolant temperature sensor installs. A leak can occur between the two halves of the thermostat housing. A hose itself could rupture. The housing can leak where it attaches to the engine… and so on and so on.

The thermostat sits on a saddle of sorts at one end and the opposing end has a locator pin that properly positions it in the housing. One owner said that the thermostat was so hot that it melted a hole in the housing which resulted in a leak… obviously. With few exceptions, a coolant leak in this area indicates that you’ll have some work to do.

You may be lucky though… if the coolant is leaking from the hose where it attaches to the vertical cylinder, you may be able to remove the factory clamp, install a standard automotive clamp and be on your way.

The weep hole… it’s there by design. Likewise, the water pump has been designed to direct coolant to the weep hole, but admittedly, I’ve never heard/read that it was “normal” for any amount of coolant to be ejected from the hole. I have heard, however, that the design allows coolant to purge from the weep hole instead of internally when a water pump failure occurs. Nevertheless, it’s kind of funny to think that a manufacturer would tell you that your car/bike is supposed to leak.

Are you sure you found evidence of coolant in your airbox? What’s smoking on the bike? Is smoke coming from the exhaust or elsewhere? You removed a small amount of oil from the bike because it was overfilled… how did the oil look? There is no “good” reason why any trace of coolant should be found in the airbox.

The funnel-shaped tube is part of the crankcase ventilation system… oil can seep from the location shown in your picture. You can replace the factory clamp with a standard hose clamp, but take care not to damage the tube. Unless I’m mistaken, the tube is part of the lower airbox assembly and cannot be purchased/replaced separately.

Your bike was starting and running normally before digging into the airbox, correct? What exactly did you disconnect, remove or otherwise do in the airbox? You mentioned the injectors. Did you actually remove the four injectors? What electrical connectors did you open? Did you open/remove the upper pipe set from the lower? Obviously, the quick release hose from the tank had to be removed in order to remove the tank. Was it properly reinstalled? Was the fuel pump connector fully engaged upon reassembly? If everything was working properly before you started, it stands to reason that something that you did, or failed to do, has created the current problem.
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Old Oct 5th 2018, 09:44 AM   #14
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Thanks for the reply!

Attached picture is of the airbox. Could it be my MWR airfiler oil? During my last ride, before I made this thread, I was at a stop light and white smoke was coming up from fairings. If I remember correctly it was predominately on the right hand side, which would make sense given the suspected location of the coolant leak. I am running water wetter if that makes a difference.

Oil looked good.

Ducati will take care of the lower airbox hose/clamp as there is a service bulletin out on it.

Bike started and ran great before! First I removed the tank per the work shop manual. After removing the take I removed "shower assembly" as the manual calls it (picture 2) so I could take out the air filter. I did not remove or mess with anything else. I left it like this for a week with a towel covering the opening where the tank was. I reconnected everything and tried to start. It would not. I lifted the tank again and noticed the fuel hose was disconnected. I obviously did not connect it properly so I reconnected and verified it was correct. Buttoned everything back up and still have the issues starting it. Fuel pump connector is good, I can hear it turn on. When I finally started it I had turned ignition on and off about 10 times (hoping fuel pump would push fuel in?) and had to do a few 5 second cranks to get it started. I let it come up to temp and shut off and was able to turn it on again immediately without an issue. After the engine cools it will go back to just cranking again.

Today I will take off the tank and shower assembly again and reinstall. Also, I ensured my vertical/horizontal cylinder plugs were correct on the shower assembly. The only thing I am not 100% sure on is the two breather hoses under the top right of the tank. I thought I got them correct but am not sure how to verify or if this even matters.

Again thanks for your time!



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Old Oct 5th 2018, 08:36 PM   #15
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The airbox… it does appear as though the oil film present is more than likely from your filter oil.

White smoke coming up from the fairings… the white smoke was not coming from the exhaust, correct? White smoke coming from the exhaust is not good, and often (but not always) indicates a head gasket issue. White smoke originating from somewhere other than the exhaust might suggest that coolant is leaking, coming into contact with, and then being burned off of a hot surface. If your assumption about the source of the coolant leak is correct, once the repairs have been made you shouldn’t have any further issues.

Hard starting… when you removed the shower head you had to remove the electrical connectors from the upper horizontal and vertical injectors and separate the upper pipe set from the lower pipe set. When you reconnected the upper pipe set to the lower, did you hear an audible “click” as the two engaged? The connectors to the upper injectors… did you by any chance clean the contacts with contact cleaner? I have to ask because there’s nothing wrong with cleaning the contacts, but sometimes if too much cleaner is applied it can cause a short (sometimes intermittent) between adjacent pins. The hose that you found to be loose… was it the hose that attaches to the tank nipple? An audible “click” should be heard when this hose is fully engaged as well. The two vents hoses… I removed the charcoal canister long ago as it’s been linked to hard starting issues. My vent hoses are joined together with a “Y” connector located behind the component mounting tray and then down to the air extractor. Is your charcoal canister still in place?
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Old Oct 10th 2018, 04:15 PM   #16
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Smoking was not from the exhaust. I pulled the electronic connectors and right side panel off and the hose to the vertical cylinder was coming off and the clamp not totally securing it. I had a really hard time trying to get the hose all the way seated. There isn't much room to work with. I gently used a pair of pliers and was able to move the hose a little and secure it with a good clamp. I was afraid of trying to take the hose completely off and trying to get it back on. I think the only way I could do that would be to remove the tank and lower airbox. If I have to do this would you recommend i just replace the entire thermostat/hoses/clamps since I've already gone that far?

Charcoal canister is gone! Previous owner didn't fit a Y tube. Just two tubes running down. One to the bottom of the bike and one that only extends down to behind where the bottom fairing is. Never had an issue with starting. Once I buttoned everything up tonight after putting the new clamp on the bike started pretty quickly perhaps 2 seconds instead of the usual 1 second. Everything under the tank is connected, hearing/feeling the clicks. Nothing was cleaned as well.

I didnt let the bike run tonight for consideration of the neighbors but tomorrow I will get it up to temps and check for coolant leaks again!
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Old Oct 11th 2018, 12:58 AM   #17
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Great…no smoke from the exhaust and the hose to the vertical cylinder head appears to be the culprit, but it sounds like you aren’t satisfied with the seating of the hose, correct? True… working room is very limited, but your best bet would be to keep working with it until you’re able to seat it properly. Unfortunately, as difficult as it may be to seat the hose, it still remains the easiest solution. Even if you removed the thermostat housing (squirter unit) and all the hoses, you would still have to fight with it once again upon reassembly. However, if you decide to go that route, by all means replace the squirter unit. Considering the work involved in removing the squirter unit for any reason, the fact that you have 16,000 miles on your bike, and the high number of squirter unit failures, if you remove it… replace it. The thermostat comes with the squirter unit (553.2.012.2A). It’s not sold separately. A new unit sells for around $180.00.

Removing the lower airbox is not an option… well it is, but it isn’t. You would have to pull the tank, remove the throttle bodies, separate the engine from the airbox/steering head/front fork assembly, have the means to properly support each, remove the lower airbox, and so on and so on and so on… major undertaking. Essentially, your best and most viable option is to keep working with the hose until you’re able to seat it properly.

The charcoal canister is gone… good. If it’s not there it can’t cause any problems. Whether the vent hoses are run separately as you described, or into a “Y” connector as in my case, makes no difference… mission accomplished either way. With regards to which hose goes on which nipple… doesn’t matter.
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