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Old Apr 6th 2019, 06:24 PM   #1
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How to: Ohlins FGRT 214 Rebuild

Hey Everyone, this is my first How To so hopefully its easy to follow. I am rebuilding the Ohlins FGRT 214 fork (panigale 899/959/V4) any FGRT should be similar if not the same as well as most ohlins. Hope this helps anyone looking to do it themselves.

The parts i will be using are:
- .95 springs instead of the 1.0 springs
- upper bushing and lower bushing
- SKF low friction seals and wipers (use 43mm KYB for all ohlins forks).

The tools you will need are:
- Pin Spanner (Motion pro here)
- 14mm and 19mm open ended wrench
- 3mm allen
-flat head
-Cartridge holder (ohlins or ktech)
-32mm socket and t handle / extensions (to use as a bushing driver)
-Heat gun
-fork oil level tool
-piston rod pull up tool(ktech here)
- table vice

Oils you will need:
-your choice of fork oil (ohlins 5wt here)
-your choice of seal grease(racetech here)
-Maxima Suspension Clean is handy to clean everything up!


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Old Apr 6th 2019, 06:33 PM   #2
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1. Put the fork in the vice where the fork would clamp in the lower triple tree, use soft jaws or a towel is fine, no need to tighten super tight.

2. Record your comp, rebound with your 3mm allen (clicks from full hard/0) and preload settings with the 14mm nut on top (turns from 0) and back everything off to 0.

3. Use the pin spanner to open up the forks as pictured.

4. Insert your 19mm on the nut above the spring and use the 14 mm on the preload adjuster to remove the fork cap.

5. Remove your the metal guide, spring, and plastic spacer.
tube

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Old Apr 6th 2019, 06:39 PM   #3
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6. Use your cartridge tool to remove the cartridge.

7. 3rd picture is what you you should have.

8. Seperate the upper and lower tubes by pulling them apart.

9. Remove the dust seal with the flat head.

10. Remove the snap ring

11. Remove the seal by prying up (i used tape to protect the tube) use heat if you want but not neccesary.

12. Remove the flat metal washer. note the side, flat side faces the seal, smoother side goes toward the bushings.

13. The last picture is what you should have.

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Old Apr 6th 2019, 06:45 PM   #4
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If your not doing bushings, feel free to skip to step 22 for installing the seals

14. Time to remove these bushings. Look through the top of the upper tube, see that lip? Thats the upper bushing. Take your 32mm socket and ger it ready to drive that out.

15. Take your heat gun heat up the upper and lower bushing area.

16. Drop your socket and t handle in and drive the upper down.

17. Now you may need a t handle and 2 standard size extensions or one long extension. Drive that lower bushing down.

18. Here are my upper and lowers that probably didnt need to be replaced, but theyre cheap enough to do every year for piece of mind.

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Last edited by jc808504; Apr 7th 2019 at 03:06 AM.
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Old Apr 6th 2019, 06:47 PM   #5
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Great how to but this is one of those services I am more than happy to pay for. Far beyond my stone age comprehension.
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Old Apr 6th 2019, 06:51 PM   #6
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19. Now i didnt document this because its pretty much the reverse of the previous steps.*tip place the new bushings in the freezer for a few minutes* Heat up the upper and lower tube again.

20. Now start from the bottom of the upper tube, insert the upper bushing and drive it into place with your socket just like you drived it out. (If you freeze it, it wont take much effort) *tip: easiest way to confirm if its in place is to record the original distance from the top of the upper bushing to the top of the fork tube (using your fork oil level tool), you could also use the other tube as refrence if its too late for that

21. Now repeat with the lower, its pretty straight forward to see if thats in properly

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Old Apr 6th 2019, 06:57 PM   #7
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22. Now time for the seals, *SKIP TO HERE IF YOU ARE NOT DOING BUSHINGS*

23. Insert your washer *flat side seal side.

24. Insert your seal with the lip facing you. Its best to use heat on the tube as it will just slide right in. Throw some seal grease on the inner part of the seal as it cuts down on friction with the lower tube.

25. Insert your snap ring

26. Insert youre dust wiper. This is a push fit. Use seal grease on the inner part of the wiper to cut down on friction.

27. Carefully put the upper tube back with the lower tube.

Time to finish it up!!!!

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Last edited by jc808504; Apr 7th 2019 at 03:04 AM.
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Old Apr 6th 2019, 07:11 PM   #8
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28. Fill your tube with oil (enough to fill the cartridge)

29. Now its time to insert the piston and piston rod (doing it this way helps bleed the system so youre not pulling the piston rod up and down all day trying to purge the air)

30. Tighten this up to about 15-20ft lbs

31. Use the piston rod pull up tool to purge any air by pulling it up and pushing it down a few times

32. Use the fork oil level tool to suck out the excess oil (i am using a 190mm air gap per recommened from Ohlins USA)

33. Insert the plastic spacer

34. Insert the spring

35. Insert the metal guide

36. Use your pull up tool to pull the piston rod up enough to insert the 19mm wrench.

37. Remove the pull up tool and screw the top cap back on. Tighten it up with the 14mm on the preload adjuster.

38. Replace the oring on the fork cap and screw it into the upper tube using your pin spanner.

39. Set the settings back to what you recorded in the first step.

40. DONE!

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Old Apr 6th 2019, 07:13 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by double0 View Post
Great how to but this is one of those services I am more than happy to pay for. Far beyond my stone age comprehension.
Lmao fair enough!!!!

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Old Apr 6th 2019, 11:09 PM   #10
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Many thanks for the time taken, especially the dedication required to post the pics.
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214, fgrt, ohlins, rebuild



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