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Old Aug 19th 2018, 06:48 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by 990Glen View Post
Strip it down. Clean out tank and change fuel filter. Dump the oil. Change the plugs.
Charge the battery. Check the state of the air filter (nothing nesting in there since it has been living outside)
Start with all the basics covered and go from there.
If still no joy firing up then look to stuff like injectors gummed up or poor fuel press due
to corroded fuel pump.
Thats exactly what ive done so far except mess with the injectors. I took out the fuel pump and it was all nasty but its all clean and working now. Any tips on working on the injectors? or how can i tell if Im getting spark? The coils on this bike are hard to just pop a plug in and ground it to turn it over to tell
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Old Aug 19th 2018, 06:50 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Mutt1979 View Post
How long was it stood for? You sure it was water and not the gas separating out? Either way, prime the entire system with new gas then try.
100% was water. I was boggled too but its all irrelevant now i guess .
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Old Aug 19th 2018, 08:09 AM   #13
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From: Trelleborg, Sweden.

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I Ride: '16 Pani R, 1098R Bayliss, KTM1090R.
My 1098 is in bits currently or I would be able to check myself, but I had a similar
starting issue with my pani in the spring. When "key on" the fuel pump would spin
up and stay running. One of the guys here checked for me, and it should run up
to pressurised then cut out. After checking of lines in the tank etc I was able to deduce that
my pump was too worn to give full pressure, and changing it for a spare sorted my
problem. Dont know if anyone else has an older series bike that can check what is
normal for the fuel pumps there.

Plugs leads are long enough to check spark outside of engine, though if they
are new plugs you would expect it to fire on at least one cylinder anyway.

Not familiar with the specific injector set up on the 848, but you could pull them
and check for any external build up of shite. It will be a pain in the ass to do,
but if you can manage to connect tank and fuel lines together suspended around the bike,
then you will see the injectors atomise when you spin it up. Probably easier
to find an auto workshop to test them for you on a bench though.

Also, from a water ingress perspective, how is the bike to push around/turn the back
wheel when in neutral? If the clutch plates get corroded the drag could be enough to
stop it spinning up to firing speed. It would have to have been a fair bit of water in the
sump to affect the 848 wet clutch though.

Again with what you feel about "pumping" water past the rings, you would have probably
hydraulic locked the cylinders and damaged something mechanically.
You could run compression test on both cylinders to prove all is even and correct.
Thanks from Saric
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Old Aug 19th 2018, 08:24 AM   #14
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I Ride: '16 Pani R, 1098R Bayliss, KTM1090R.
Electrically you have -
Fuses.

The sidestand switch, which would stop it spinning up at all.

The combination of gear position sensor and clutch lever switches which would again
stop it spinning up I would expect.

The immobiliser pick up around the ignition barrel, which should show a fault on the
dash if its not proving itself during system check on start up.

Starter relays and solenoid - no spin up.

And you mention having a battery key fob which would imply an aftermarket alarm/immob.
Whole can of worms there all by itself. Find someone who can remove it for you.
Thanks from Saric
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Old Aug 19th 2018, 08:25 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 990Glen View Post
My 1098 is in bits currently or I would be able to check myself, but I had a similar
starting issue with my pani in the spring. When "key on" the fuel pump would spin
up and stay running. One of the guys here checked for me, and it should run up
to pressurised then cut out. After checking of lines in the tank etc I was able to deduce that
my pump was too worn to give full pressure, and changing it for a spare sorted my
problem. Dont know if anyone else has an older series bike that can check what is
normal for the fuel pumps there.

Plugs leads are long enough to check spark outside of engine, though if they
are new plugs you would expect it to fire on at least one cylinder anyway.

Not familiar with the specific injector set up on the 848, but you could pull them
and check for any external build up of shite. It will be a pain in the ass to do,
but if you can manage to connect tank and fuel lines together suspended around the bike,
then you will see the injectors atomise when you spin it up. Probably easier
to find an auto workshop to test them for you on a bench though.

Also, from a water ingress perspective, how is the bike to push around/turn the back
wheel when in neutral? If the clutch plates get corroded the drag could be enough to
stop it spinning up to firing speed. It would have to have been a fair bit of water in the
sump to affect the 848 wet clutch though.

Again with what you feel about "pumping" water past the rings, you would have probably
hydraulic locked the cylinders and damaged something mechanically.
You could run compression test on both cylinders to prove all is even and correct.
I dont believe the water was in the engine long enough to do much harm. Once i got the bike i looked in the sight glass and to oil looked good but when i kept spinning it over then rechecked the sight glass i seen the oil looking milky( thats when i pulled the tank to find the water) . I pulled the plugs and they didnt look bad but replaced them anyway to make sure. Ive checked compression and all is good there, Clutch is also good.
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Old Aug 19th 2018, 08:32 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by 990Glen View Post
Electrically you have -
Fuses.

The sidestand switch, which would stop it spinning up at all.

The combination of gear position sensor and clutch lever switches which would again
stop it spinning up I would expect.

The immobiliser pick up around the ignition barrel, which should show a fault on the
dash if its not proving itself during system check on start up.

Starter relays and solenoid - no spin up.

And you mention having a battery key fob which would imply an aftermarket alarm/immob.
Whole can of worms there all by itself. Find someone who can remove it for you.
the immobiliser would would show what on the dash? Im not able to find much of any info on this bike on the internet for some reason is there anywhere you suggest looking ? This is the kind of stuff Im leaning towards with this bike since it was outside so long with water everywhere.
Its also spinning over , It just wont fire . Its acting exactly like no spark or fuel but this is what its done to the previous owner when he left the fob away from the bike.

Last edited by Saric; Aug 19th 2018 at 08:34 AM.
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Old Aug 19th 2018, 08:39 AM   #17
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I Ride: '16 Pani R, 1098R Bayliss, KTM1090R.
The ducati inherent immobiliser will show dash fault codes.
I dont think that the added aftemarket unit (ducati supply or not) will give any indications
on the display, faulty or otherwise.

There will be workshop manuals available online if you search via google, but they dont
offer much in the way of trouble shooting. More on how it dismantle and rebuild.
Thanks from Saric
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Old Aug 20th 2018, 01:23 AM   #18
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From: East England, UK

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I Ride: Panigale V4S
Milky oil? If you're retaining compression then the engine has shot a gasket somewhere, but where!
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Old Aug 20th 2018, 06:16 PM   #19
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I Ride: 2017 Hypermotard 939sp, 2016 Panigale 2008 ZX10R 2006 ZX10R 1999 ZX7R
I'm in Tracy, I could come over and help if you like. I'm not a mechanic, but mechanically inclined.
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Old Aug 20th 2018, 07:00 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by SingleSided View Post
I'm in Tracy, I could come over and help if you like. I'm not a mechanic, but mechanically inclined.
My work hours are really all over the place so making time to work on the bike is here and there. Should definitely go ride if i ever figure this dam thing out lol.
I really have no idea where to ride out here i lived in the east bay until I bought the place out here
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