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Old Mar 9th 2013, 08:31 PM   #11
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From: south florida

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I Ride: 2012 1199 S
Can these be used without the spacers?
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Old Apr 27th 2013, 11:04 PM   #12
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I Ride: 2017 RSV4 RF, 2010 RSV4 Factory, 2014 Beta 520 RS
My 2 cents...

Ok... Finally after having a few days off and some good weather pressuring me to get the job done I completed the DP rearsets install myself. So here is my review of the install and first ride.

The install... As Gavin and others have mentioned it is a tedious quirky install.

On the RH side after going through and applying thread locker where needed as mentioned in other posts I proceeded to install per the directions to the frame only to find that I could not install the top bolt through the mounting hole with the rearset fully assembled. No, big deal I just separated the two halves and continued. It took me a minute to get the spring position and brake lever adjusted and did not see anywhere in the instructions that talked about the spring and brake lever adjustment. Be careful with the tightening the rear brake sensor as I dinged mine a little over tightening as its kinda soft. I also had to get a shorter bolt for the heel guard as the original one for the front of the heel guard is too long and will hit the rear brake master cylinder before it is able to tighten down the heel guard.

On the LH side (Also applied thread locker where needed) I had to loosen the clutch line from the slave cylinder to access the bolt and remove the shift linkage. (I needed to bleed the clutch anyway.) Then I couldn't brake the shift linkage apart to swap out with the correct shaft. (I was scared to break it and to it to my local shop and they broke it apart for me.) After that I was back in business and set up the linkage for the standard shift pattern on the lower setting. When installing the LH assembly the lower bolt was a little more time consuming since the Allen socket was too short and the short end of the Allen key was too short I ended up cutting it to a usable length and used a box end with the cut piece to tighten the lower bolt. Once that was done I continued the install and then attached the shift linkage to the lower hole for quicker shifting. It took a few to get the linkage to operate correctly and smooth. I put the key in and turned the ignition on and ran through the gears and watched it change on the dash. I made adjustments until I was satisfied with the operation up and down throught the gears. Had a little issue with the heel guard install and one bolt not wanting to start so I rode it down to the dealer and had them install the heel guard. (I did not want to cross-thread it.) Done!

The ride...was great first awesome sunny day since I've been back home! My knees felt a little higher and planted in the sweet spot of the tank. (I have the comfort seat.) The shift linkage was silky smooth and the peg grip was outstanding.

They are pricey but very sexy and functional. Installation instructions are on the weak side but it was worth the accomplishment of doing it myself. I got a good deal on them and would recommend them to anyone looking to buy rearsets.
Thanks from Duc1199 and Twistedracer

Last edited by flobrandx; Apr 27th 2013 at 11:07 PM.
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Old Oct 21st 2013, 09:27 AM   #13
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From: Northern VA

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I Ride: K5 Gixxer 1000;1199 PANIGALE S; 2015 Yamaha R1
I would like to add my input on the DP rearsets self install.
As mentioned before the instructions are not easy to understand, but here are some key points to keep in mind.

To remove the shift rod solenoid pivot screw the clutch valve will need to be loosed or removed to get clear access to the screw for removal. If you loosen the clutch valve slightly enough just to move the cable out of the way, you won’t run the risk of leaking fluid while performing the install.

Also note when trying to remove the OEM shift rod from the solenoid, the two parts are reverse thread so:

A) Loosen the Lock nut on the solenoid.
B) Using a wrench to hold the solenoid in place turn the (shift rod)** towards’** you with an additional wrench, while turning the (solenoid) **away** you, you might run into some resistance at the end of the thread that just feels plain wrong… but proceed till the two shafts separate.
C) Standard Shift will be the (shorter) rod and reverse/GP shift will the (longer) rod in the box that will be used with the reverse shift bracket that’s in the box. I opted for the GP/Shift on the quickest shift setting.

Although I’m 6’3 I have my pegs set to high I’ve tested it with both my race seat and stock seat and as for now I’m comfortable with the set up, no feeling of being a horse jockey.

With the pegs set to (high) there is a setback, when installing the heel guards the right and the left rear heel guard screws are two long in my case and interfere with the brake lever, Flobrandx also addressed this in his post as well, at also noted that the screws appear to be cross threading due to the angle of the screw hole and the sets.

The instructions do mention thread loc#222 I used Locite 242 after calling a couple of the local dealers to see what they used.

I Know GP shift is confusing to some, but it just seems right to me, and with the rear sets set to the faster shift option in conjunction with the GP/reverse shift option gear change is uber quick!

The foot brake has a different feel to it… that I’m 50/50 on the feel, so I will do some more adjusting to the spring location till I’m 100% satisfied. That being said I still like the overall feel and look of the sets.

I had no intensions on buying rear sets but I caught them for an insane deal shipped from Pro Italia, but I’m happy with the purchase.

- Duc1199
Thanks from mark419ny and chrissa
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Old Oct 21st 2013, 09:58 AM   #14
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From: Calgary, Alberta, Canada

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I Ride: 1199R, RC51
Good writeup.

Is the short throw mode for the shift lever noticeable (set to a reverse GP pattern)? I find the stock lever has a really long throw to it for my riding style (so much that I've hit neutral a few times going 1 to 2).

I keep hunting for a good deal on the DP sets. One of these days I'm gonna pull the pin and get a set.

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Old Oct 21st 2013, 12:54 PM   #15
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From: Denver, Colorado

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I Ride: '12 1199 Panigale S Tricolore
Originally Posted by Gavin D View Post
Thanks for the advice everyone, each comment has been very helpful. I am a little paranoid about the locktite so I will be keeping a keen eye on all bolts for sure!

I've taken a few dodgy pics with the iphone but hope they will do!

The pic with my finger in it shows the reverse shift linkage provided and where it would attach. This pic also shows the two mounting point options for a std or faster shift option.

Love the machine marks and each components manufacture date etched onto the surface.

First decent ride to test them out this weekend if the weather holds up.
What rear fender do you have on there?
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Old Oct 21st 2013, 12:58 PM   #16
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I Ride: '12 1199 Panigale S Tricolore
Originally Posted by Denver Rick View Post
What rear fender do you have on there?
Never mind, I see it is DP. I had actually never seen a picture with the right side showing before. That looks great, may have to get one.
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Old Oct 21st 2013, 02:02 PM   #17
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From: Wiesbaden, Germany

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I Ride: 2012 1199
Originally Posted by Denver Rick View Post
Never mind, I see it is DP. I had actually never seen a picture with the right side showing before. That looks great, may have to get one.
There are some great looking rearsets. I have some BNIB that I may be parting with. pm me if interested!
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Old Oct 21st 2013, 06:06 PM   #18
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It amazes me how apparently its common practice of Ducati and their stealership service departments not using Loctite on these bolts. My White 13 S originally had NO loctite on the oem rearsets. The moron dealer who installed my DP rearsets NEVER used any loctite on my new rearsets. I just bought an R and a week into owning it the brake pedal assembly (held on by one bolt) fell off in my driveway just before going on a ride as it had NO loctite on it. Apparently some dealership near Fairfax Virginia has "one of the best mechanics in the country" who did the rearset install but also lacked placing loctite on these bolts. I pulled all bolts for the rearsets on my R and not a single bolt had loctite on them.

Remember- LOCTITE LOCTITE LOCTITE! You don't want your $1,200+ rearsets falling off the bike!
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Old Oct 21st 2013, 09:44 PM   #19
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I Ride: 2017 RSV4 RF, 2010 RSV4 Factory, 2014 Beta 520 RS
I believe the issue is that the rearsets come partially assembled without any thread locker and the installers are failing to disassemble them and put thread locker on everything.
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Old Oct 22nd 2013, 09:34 AM   #20
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I Ride: My wife... when she let's me!
$1,200 for rearsets is just absurd.
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