I have the bike on the rear stand and use a lashing stripe to fix the rear wheel. Open the nut with a 60 Euro electronic impact gun (400 Nm) and use the factory torque spec. Easy work, done in 2 minutes.
The torque the dog .... out of it from the Factory. We do at least 3 rear wheel changes in a race weekend and I know he doesn't use the Factory torque spec on the rear wheel, it is just ridiculous.
Invest in a good 1/2" impact wrench. It will be a life saver. Short of that, do what they said.
Can you confirm if looking at the wheel side if it's left turn for lose or is it the other way around ? Back in the post it was mentioned but I'm still unsure.
Is it a 54mm socket?
55mm, counter clock wise (same as loosening a "normal" nut).
It is a true ball buster if you do not have the proper tools...
At one point I lifted the back wheel and a person sitting on the bike off the ground while trying to get this off the 1st time... Since then I torque it to @ 120 ft lbs and call it good.
At one point I lifted the back wheel and a person sitting on the bike off the ground while trying to get this off the 1st time...
Thanks all for the very creative suggestions.
I like the idea of a heat gun but concerned about damaging the paint on the wheel...I know you suggested heating for 10 mins, but do I heat it at a setting of 70 degree celcius or higher ?
55mm, counter clock wise (same as loosening a "normal" nut).