2016 Panigale R oil consumption

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I have seen other threads regarding oil consumption but I wondered if any SL or 2015-2016 Panigale R owners noticed a significant amount of oil being used? I have only ridden my 2016 a handful of times and have about 350 miles on the odometer, however, when I checked the oil it was low. It ended up needing a little over a FULL liter!

Anyway, I added the oil and all should be good but I wondered how many other owners have noticed this issue.
 
I have seen other threads regarding oil consumption but I wondered if any SL or 2015-2016 Panigale R owners noticed a significant amount of oil being used? I have only ridden my 2016 a handful of times and have about 350 miles on the odometer, however, when I checked the oil it was low. It ended up needing a little over a FULL liter!

Anyway, I added the oil and all should be good but I wondered how many other owners have noticed this issue.

I know you're asking about the 2016, but I had to do roughly the same as you. It gets better as it 'beds in'.

Just keep an eye on it. I can't see any differences in the engines between the 2015 to the 2016 so I would assume their behaviour is no different.
 
Had a '15 and have a '16.
Both spent a summer season between track days and commuting.
Both around 4.5 - 5k km.
Both less than 500ml top up outside or normal service oil changes.
 
I have seen other threads regarding oil consumption but I wondered if any SL or 2015-2016 Panigale R owners noticed a significant amount of oil being used? I have only ridden my 2016 a handful of times and have about 350 miles on the odometer, however, when I checked the oil it was low. It ended up needing a little over a FULL liter!

Anyway, I added the oil and all should be good but I wondered how many other owners have noticed this issue.
My -16R about 0.8l / 600km... ( 4500km)
 
These engines do not do well full to the top off line and will burn more if you keep levels that high.

Also these motors have since they have been out burn oil for while with low miles generally speaking.

I keep my oil level at the bottom of the measurement and it stays almost the same when I change oil every 2500 miles.

I do beat the crap out of mine, and it gets redlined often which helped breaking it in.

A few years back we did a thread on break in and oil consumption, if I remember right those who babied them ate more oil.

When mine was new I used to get oil on start up for a few months. Never get the start up smoke for the last few years.
 
These engines do not do well full to the top off line and will burn more if you keep levels that high.

Also these motors have since they have been out burn oil for while with low miles generally speaking.

I keep my oil level at the bottom of the measurement and it stays almost the same when I change oil every 2500 miles.

I do beat the crap out of mine, and it gets redlined often which helped breaking it in.

A few years back we did a thread on break in and oil consumption, if I remember right those who babied them ate more oil.

When mine was new I used to get oil on start up for a few months. Never get the start up smoke for the last few years.

Your bike and the 15/16 R's are not the same. Break-in procedure doesn't matter. I babied mine n still do n never used up excess oil. I'm pretty sure it's due to the 15/16 R having dual piston rings and not at all how someone broke in their bike. I'll also say that based on what I've heard from another R owner on here who had this issue n was fixed by the dealer, beating on it before properly warming up the engine will also allow blow by into the airbox n filling it up with oil.
 
The 15/16 Panigale R burn spec do to the 2 ring piston is 300ml/1000Km per Ducati. If you do track days/race it will burn faster of course. Mine was right about there but after putting 4000+ miles it has improved.

If you hammer it while the oil is cold the large pistons will suck the oil right into the airbox and will drip out of the airbox drain tube at the bottom of the bike and get all over the rear tire speaking from experience. Its a ...... up design and its a common design on all version of the Panigale 899, 959, 1199 and 1299.
 
ScrapperX is accurate here. I'm not an engine expert so will not comment on the break in procedures. The only performance engines I have ever been around were broken in on a dyno by I assume someone who knew what they were doing. I am sure on all but the most tightly spec'd applications that there are a bunch of variables why one gets different results that another. On the air box there is an tapered tube that goes from the engine case to a plastic piece in the air box that looks like a little pizza oven. Crankcase venting is positive by way of induction from the intake manifold. Pretty simple but as Scrapper points out if the oil level is a bit too full you will get some oil in the air box. Last night was the first time i ever saw a little residue around the "oven" and its is the first time I have ran the oil near the upper fill line. This was a routine air box cleaning as I am stupid enough to run the P16 filter on the street. Don't do this. It will filter runaway pets and small birds but not much else.
 
If you hammer it while the oil is cold the large pistons will suck the oil right into the airbox and will drip out of the airbox drain tube at the bottom of the bike and get all over the rear tire speaking from experience. Its a ...... up design and its a common design on all version of the Panigale 899, 959, 1199 and 1299.

Exactly. If you beat on your bike you do it when its hot.


but after putting 4000+ miles it has improved.

You said the key phrase right here.

Mine was similar just less miles
 
Break-in procedure doesn't matter. .


I just posted what the group tested and the consensus was. When the bikes first came out we had a ton of these oil threads.

I will say factually the harder you are on them, the faster the rings seat, and the less oil you will burn overall.

If you baby them, it may seat anyway, and if I remember right results were like 60/40.

My whole point in context here is a bit dynamic. #1 they all burn oil to some extent, and it gets better with time. #2 do not fill oil to top of sight glass or yours will burn more oil. #3 aggressive break in will stop oil consumption a hair quicker.

Now it doesn't apply to everyone, and why some bikes burn more is beyond me if they were put together right with the same specs. But it does happen.
 
I burned quite a bit of Oil during first 600 miles or so (at least more than my S) but now, it doesnt burn as much. Since I was surprised by how much it did burn, I check just about every track session and it stays pretty constant.
 
2015 R - i found while being somewhat gentle with the throttle, and a lower hash mark oil level, you could prevent any oil from dribbling out of the air box drain tube (item 7) (still gets in the air box, just not enough to drain) - use the throttle and tach as you really want to (shift lights blazing, bumps off the rev limiter now and then, with a sweeping use of the tach from down low to up high) and no matter what low oil level you have, oil will get sucked up and out thru the crankcase breather, then when parked on the side stand, the oil will migrate to the drain in the corner of the air box and dribble out the drain tube under the bike - use a middle window or upper hash mark oil level, and there will be oil everywhere (rear tire included)

the first occurrence was at around 2500 miles..my shop replaced both pistons, rings & cylinder sleeves at the 6500mile mark last season (Oct 2015) the tech pointed out how the pistons themselves were not exactly perfectly round...DNA requested all kinds of measurements and approved replacement

fast forward to the 8500 mile mark and it is happening again...at 11k+ miles its back at the dealer.....DNA came to look themselves this time, and found my bike, and another with the same issue, waiting for them

my service tech stands by his measurements and reiterated that "things just aren't as round as they are supposed to be"...they should be replacing everything all over again soon (Nov 2016)...:rolleyes:

i'm looking for a way to have a small catch bottle set up, but there isn't much real estate...:cool:
 

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RD16. Well that certainly sucks. I clicked over 9k miles on the "home built" bike. I swear there has never been a drop of oil in the airbox. The bike is apart constantly as I experiment with different parts. The airbox is clean as the day it was put together. Like I said earlier, an overfill caused only a slight misting around the plastic port. I cleaned it, siphoned back down to the low hash and upon last inspection, it's completely dry. The bike is flogged daily. That whole piston deal sounds pretty weird. I'm guessing they checked the dimensional integrity of the pistons and liners prior to assembly. The 1299 motor has steel liners vs aluminum liners in the 1199. Not sure if the liners in the 2 ring R are different than the standard 1199. That sucks. Wouls be nice to know where the issue was.
 
RD16. Well that certainly sucks. I clicked over 9k miles on the "home built" bike. I swear there has never been a drop of oil in the airbox. The bike is apart constantly as I experiment with different parts. The airbox is clean as the day it was put together. Like I said earlier, an overfill caused only a slight misting around the plastic port. I cleaned it, siphoned back down to the low hash and upon last inspection, it's completely dry. The bike is flogged daily. That whole piston deal sounds pretty weird. I'm guessing they checked the dimensional integrity of the pistons and liners prior to assembly. The 1299 motor has steel liners vs aluminum liners in the 1199. Not sure if the liners in the 2 ring R are different than the standard 1199. That sucks. Wouls be nice to know where the issue was.

..i'll let you know as it moves along the repair process...it's pretty much an exact scenario as the first time....i'll see what he says regarding measurements again....he was rather blunt about it last time...he said even DNA was questioning what he was seeing, so they asked him to double check it...

in the end they replaced it all...and i see the same scenario unfolding now, but remains to be seen what they officially plan on replacing this time

i'm thinking a catch bottle is pretty much mandatory, but it's tight in there
 
Yea I always thought it was interesting to have drain hoses directed underneath the bike prior to the drive wheel. I will look at the drain path today and see if there is an easy solution for some sort of integrated catch bottle that is non intrusive. If there is something that we can make, you can try it out.
 
Yea I always thought it was interesting to have drain hoses directed underneath the bike prior to the drive wheel. I will look at the drain path today and see if there is an easy solution for some sort of integrated catch bottle that is non intrusive. If there is something that we can make, you can try it out.

thanks ! as you know...it is tight in there
 
Talked to the dealer and they were not surprised it had burnt through a quart. Single ring (SL) and double-ring pistons (15-16 R) will burn more oil, I get that. I have owned 7 Ducatis....this was significantly more than any of the 30+ bikes I have owned but I plan to keep a close eye on it.

Thanks for everyone's feedback.
 
2015 R - i found while being somewhat gentle with the throttle, and a lower hash mark oil level, you could prevent any oil from dribbling out of the air box drain tube (item 7) (still gets in the air box, just not enough to drain) - use the throttle and tach as you really want to (shift lights blazing, bumps off the rev limiter now and then, with a sweeping use of the tach from down low to up high) and no matter what low oil level you have, oil will get sucked up and out thru the crankcase breather, then when parked on the side stand, the oil will migrate to the drain in the corner of the air box and dribble out the drain tube under the bike - use a middle window or upper hash mark oil level, and there will be oil everywhere (rear tire included)

the first occurrence was at around 2500 miles..my shop replaced both pistons, rings & cylinder sleeves at the 6500mile mark last season (Oct 2015) the tech pointed out how the pistons themselves were not exactly perfectly round...DNA requested all kinds of measurements and approved replacement

fast forward to the 8500 mile mark and it is happening again...at 11k+ miles its back at the dealer.....DNA came to look themselves this time, and found my bike, and another with the same issue, waiting for them

my service tech stands by his measurements and reiterated that "things just aren't as round as they are supposed to be"...they should be replacing everything all over again soon (Nov 2016)...:rolleyes:

i'm looking for a way to have a small catch bottle set up, but there isn't much real estate...:cool:

:eek:

Hope it gets fixed for you.

its a 2015 and you already have 11k+ miles?? wow man. that is awesome.
 
:eek:

Hope it gets fixed for you.

its a 2015 and you already have 11k+ miles?? wow man. that is awesome.

Thanks.....it should be ok...while I'm not overjoyed with the situation, I realized long ago that "all things mechanical" are exactly that...I'll deal with it the best that I can, and hope the next round of repairs, with hopefully updated or revised parts will take care of it...otherwise a catch bottle will have to do, because this 1199r is one great bike...and only a 2017 would make it all go away...(but I wouldn't be too eager to find the same issue exists in the newer one)

11k...?....yup !! Sunday's only :) ....I'm about 4K & 2+ sets of tires shy of where id like to be....typically I try to get the bike in for scheduled service (15k) thru winter months.....but the multiple piston/sleeve/rings replacement services have intervened
 
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