22 V4 Hesitation, fuel pump?

Morning guys, tried to record the issue but I'm hindsight the white screen at night doesn't show the revs fluctuating. The bike let's me rev a little higher now while still hesitating back and forth, and after 10k you can just feel the power drop off. But if you turn your sound up, you can hear the bike just jerking back and forth as it wants to rev.

In the second clip, not sure if related, but I've noticed that when just rolling, if I pull the clutch in I notice a repetitive sound, not sure if with each wheel rotation or what but it's like a whirring sound. And I can feel the vibration from it as well. Can it be brake drag? But seems extreme.

Lastly the 3rd clip is just more of the same hesitation noise when trying to get on it.

In all those clips, that's the bike under wide open throttle.



Volume up to hear the bike fighting/shuddering to rev.

Ideas? It's under warranty but off a rough call they haven't heard of anything like this, from 2 separate dealers.

Is the bike new or used?

Have you done anything to the bike?

It sounds like the drive chain is way too tight or there’s something interfering with the drive output. It’s strong enough to drag the bike down under power.

SBK-SP said:

Is the bike new or used?

Have you done anything to the bike?

It sounds like the drive chain is way too tight or there’s something interfering with the drive output. It’s strong enough to drag the bike down under power.

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If you can hear whirring and it's the countershaft bearing it's already spalled. Have you checked rear brake drag. Nobody ever changes the rear fluid. If it's wet doesn't take much to get it to expand.

Forgot to mention the bike is 100% stock. Just crossed the 600mile mark few days ago at 800 now.

Had bike on stand and rear wheel spins freely. Will double check the chain. But essentially it's a new bike. Not tossing any codes either.

Mr.Alex said:

Forgot to mention the bike is 100% stock. Just crossed the 600mile mark few days ago at 800 now.

Had bike on stand and rear wheel spins freely. Will double check the chain. But essentially it's a new bike. Not tossing any codes either.

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If it's a new bike get it back to the dealer, it has a warranty, use it.

Has it had it's first service? they have a run in RPM limit and map, I was told not to rev mine past 7500 i think???? which i didn't so if it hasn't had it's first service it may just be the map because i don't think the bike will let you rev it that hard until the first service is done and the ECU is updated to a full map

SBK-SP said:

Is the bike new or used?

Have you done anything to the bike?

It sounds like the drive chain is way too tight or there’s something interfering with the drive output. It’s strong enough to drag the bike down under power.

Click to expand...

+1
Sounds like a tight drive chain or rear brake pad. Check the slack and see if your caliper piston is releasing right or if something has got inbetween them.

Loony888 said:

they have a run in RPM limit and map, I was told not to rev mine past 7500 i think???? which i didn't so if it hasn't had it's first service it may just be the map because i don't think the bike will let you rev it that hard until the first service is done and the ECU is updated to a full map

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There's no run in map or electronic limit. They merely advise not to go past 7500.

I checked the chain and the slack is appropriate to the requirements.

I will be letting the dealer take care of it, was just looking for ideas on the side like I would be doing if the bike was out of warranty. If I could have solved the issue would reduce the downtime of the bike being away, especially since they don't really have any ideas over the phone.

bp_SFV4 said:

There's no run in map or electronic limit. They merely advise not to go past 7500.

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ahhh ok, cheers. so the tach flashing yellow when you go over the recommended RPM is all there is then?

My dealer made it seem like at the first service they kind of unlocked the bike to give full power and the redline increase on the dash showed that, misinformed... as usual. LOL

Hey guys so just an update, I had one dealer look at the bike, no fault codes, cant find anything wrong.

Then I brought bike back to initial dealer. They took it do dyno, said it was 40hp down, engine not very smooth etc. No fault codes, nothing. Ducati North America said to run through typical things like the fuel pump, plugs, etc. Everything checked out fine, escalated to Italy. But after they put bike back together I get another email saying they think its good now, but overnight verified on dyno that still down on power and not smooth. Ducati ordered additional testing and logging.

At this point its almost a month and a half since my bike been in the dealership, has about 1k miles. What are my options, is it possible to lemon the bike and how would I do that? I'm just tired of being stuck in this loop of "everything checks out fine" and nobody can figure anything out.

Mr.Alex said:

Hey guys so just an update, I had one dealer look at the bike, no fault codes, cant find anything wrong.

Then I brought bike back to initial dealer. They took it do dyno, said it was 40hp down, engine not very smooth etc. No fault codes, nothing. Ducati North America said to run through typical things like the fuel pump, plugs, etc. Everything checked out fine, escalated to Italy. But after they put bike back together I get another email saying they think its good now, but overnight verified on dyno that still down on power and not smooth. Ducati ordered additional testing and logging.

At this point its almost a month and a half since my bike been in the dealership, has about 1k miles. What are my options, is it possible to lemon the bike and how would I do that? I'm just tired of being stuck in this loop of "everything checks out fine" and nobody can figure anything out.

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NY State lemon law


Sounds like you have a case. Do you have written documentation that the bike is down 40 hp? Get that first before pursuing anything so they don’t withhold that info.

Has any of these dealers reflashed the bike? Could be software. Ask them to reflash all of it including the bbs.

Just wanted to follow up on this; the power deficit was down to the upper injectors needing to be replaced, but the shaking and stuttering under load was down to the chain. It seemed perfectly fine, but my dealer found one part to be too tight and another part too loose, and together it contributed to that shaking feeling in the RPMs. Hope this helps someone in the future.