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I will be removing all my ABS stuff off my 16R soon so the plan was to remove the lines and remove the pump but leave the electronics part plugged in.
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Yep few people have already done it so to be on the safe side so the electronics or traction control does not wig out going to do what he did.
http://ducatiforum.com/ducati-1199/19814-abs-removal-5.html
http://ducatiforum.com/ducati-1199/19814-abs-removal-5.html
jarelj
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Unless something has changed, this is not an option. When we tried this initially on the 1199 we found the ECU looks for the ABS pump on key-on and if it's not there you get a bunch of errors on the dash and a no-start condition or a "limp mode" condition if I recall. We have always just plugged the ports on the ABS pump and disabled ABS in the dash menu, and ran traditional brake lines straight to the calipers on the track/race bikes we've built.
We sell a "kit" for it if you want a simple solution:
https://www.ducatiomaha.com/collections/1199-panigale/products/racing-panigale-front-abs-delete-kit
Hey Jarel thanks for chiming in yeah I pretty much was going to do what you guys have done so I don't get all the codes and everything else will stay working normally.
jarelj
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Ironically I just got an e-mail from Mick at Bike Sport Developments this morning saying that he's working on a product which will plug into the diagnostic port on the bike and allow the removal of the ABS pump from a race bike. But it sounds like it will be later in the year before it's ready for prime time. So it's feasible to just do the "kit" plug with the lines for now, and then when this becomes available get it and take off the pump, and keep the same lines.
Oh sweet deal yeah they make nice stuff I have there start/kill switches and kickstand delete plugs on my current R. Like you said it the best thing for now is just do the kit and plug the lines for now till the plug becomes available.
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Bumping and oldie here...
2014 1199s
I have the ABS unit taken down to this level and I'd like to just fit a backing plate to cover it up.
1. Can the silver cylinders be removed? Or do they need to stay in place?
2. Can the long piece with the silver prongs be cut so that a backing plate can be fit flushly?
3. I'd like to avoid any error codes.
Mick - I know you will see this and I appreciate the help, but I don't need or want to cut it down to the circuit board level. I'm fine with the weight of the unit as it sits now.
2014 1199s
I have the ABS unit taken down to this level and I'd like to just fit a backing plate to cover it up.
1. Can the silver cylinders be removed? Or do they need to stay in place?
2. Can the long piece with the silver prongs be cut so that a backing plate can be fit flushly?
3. I'd like to avoid any error codes.
Mick - I know you will see this and I appreciate the help, but I don't need or want to cut it down to the circuit board level. I'm fine with the weight of the unit as it sits now.
Attachments
An you plug the ABS pump into the harness in its current configuration to check it as is?
The “circuit board only” configuration does not cause a traditional dash error if done correctly however it will trigger a fault. You will get a flashing mode “race, sport, etc” when the operation is complete. The flashing icon is letting you know that the mode is not confirmed meaning that your WC, TC, EB may not be functioning properly. I’m suspecting that in your case in the pumps current configuration that you will see this fault already.
The only way that I have found to do the mod correctly without any faults is to correctly go to board level and solder the appropriate resistors in place where the electro solenoids were (4 8 ohm). I would check the integrity of what you have now before going forward.
The “circuit board only” configuration does not cause a traditional dash error if done correctly however it will trigger a fault. You will get a flashing mode “race, sport, etc” when the operation is complete. The flashing icon is letting you know that the mode is not confirmed meaning that your WC, TC, EB may not be functioning properly. I’m suspecting that in your case in the pumps current configuration that you will see this fault already.
The only way that I have found to do the mod correctly without any faults is to correctly go to board level and solder the appropriate resistors in place where the electro solenoids were (4 8 ohm). I would check the integrity of what you have now before going forward.
BSD has a lil box that connects the wheel speed sensors into the system thru the gps plug
You can then ditch everything. Can even hack the harness and get rid of the huge ... plug : )
www.ducatiomaha.com
You can then ditch everything. Can even hack the harness and get rid of the huge ... plug : )
BSD Racing ABS Delete (REMOVAL) Bypass Module - Panigale
Notes:ONLY available for 899/959/1199 Paniagle models, NOT compatible with 1299 Panigale. You must use the correct module for your bike as each one has specific programming, fitting an incorrect module will result in dashboard warning messages and potential loss of some safety systems It is your...
www.ducatiomaha.com
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Just an option I plugged my front lines from the ABS unit and ran direct lines up front leaving the rear intact and functioning. This has not triggered any warning lights and cost me very little.
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Endo, in the other "ABS Thread", ( ABS removal. ) it seems as though capdroid had luck just undoing the 4 torx screws and running the unit as mine sits now. But, there are conflicting reports of it not working for Jarel at Ducati Omaha and then working fine for others.
Don - I'm not turning any hot laps at COTA, but I would like to plumb lines straight to the calipers. The weight of the plastic housing I'm fine with. The 5LB pump that I'll never use I would like to eliminate. I can't justify $300 to lose 5LBS. I'll just plug the ports and leave it in place if the system needs to see pressure to not throw codes.
Don - I'm not turning any hot laps at COTA, but I would like to plumb lines straight to the calipers. The weight of the plastic housing I'm fine with. The 5LB pump that I'll never use I would like to eliminate. I can't justify $300 to lose 5LBS. I'll just plug the ports and leave it in place if the system needs to see pressure to not throw codes.
Yeah Don how you gonna do all that? Your definetely way late to the party (like 20 years) technology wise so you might want to actually try getting the bike started, running and operational before trying to do any ABS deleting way above your knowlege/skill level.
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