Addressing wrist pressure while riding

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Folks,

I have noted quite a few posts concerning "wrist fatigue" while riding. I have also noted quite a few helpful suggestions. Maybe it would be best to post any helpful advise on a single thread ?

So with that said, my contribution (which I have not validated) is the possible use of something like Crampbuster ?

Ref : Original Motorcycle Cruise Control - Crampbuster
 
Usually if I notice my wrists starting to feel pressure it's because I'm not hugging the bike with my legs enough. Then I tighten my legs to the bike and it goes away. It takes some effort to actually pay attention to keeping my legs in tight though. So, simply said, pay attention to not actually using your wrists as shock absorbers that hold you up. Tighten into the bike and you'll alleviate the wrist pressure and probably have more control of your hands functions.
 
Usually if I notice my wrists starting to feel pressure it's because I'm not hugging the bike with my legs enough. Then I tighten my legs to the bike and it goes away. It takes some effort to actually pay attention to keeping my legs in tight though. So, simply said, pay attention to not actually using your wrists as shock absorbers that hold you up. Tighten into the bike and you'll alleviate the wrist pressure and probably have more control of your hands functions.

I'm no pro here but ^ is very well put. It's amazing the difference you'll feel with more concentration on your legs and feet placement on the pegs.
 
tech spec and stomp grip are good for holding on to the tanks with your legs.

Additionally, you should'nt really be putting much weight on your wrists. Ideally, you should be using your abdominal muscles to hold position, not your wrists.
 
Riding a motorcycle is much like riding a horse, the lighter the hands the better.

Remember the gyro effect of the front wheel makes the motorcycle run straight and upright therefore there is no need to hold tight on the grips or the tank. Much like riding a horse, your balance and support comes from your feet.

If your "center" is balanced you can ride practically with no hands except to countersteer and then your outside leg is leaning on the tank only if you are dropping your inside knee.

In other words, don't grip the vibration, release it.
 
ITs a good sign that its time to lose some weight because your wrists are struggling to keep your fat ... from slapping your tank... Time for me to lose some weight!
 
It all comes down to good riding position. This is why sport bikes are typically not ideal street/every day/commuting bikes, because they demand a lot from your core, it's almost a workout riding one.

Like others have said, if your wrists hurt it's more than likely because you're putting weight on them (of which there should be none normally). Good riding position means something like this: ball of your foot on the peg, knees locked into the side of the bike/tank, and your upper body supported by your core. You should be bent over to the point that your forearms are about parallel with the ground, putting no weight on the bars. This way you can maximize your input to the steering column as well as get back maximum feedback from what your front wheel is feeling/doing.

Obviously this is the ideal and intentional positioning for a sport bike, but is not always easy to maintain, especially on long boring rides. I've found it's on the more spirited, twisty rides that this is easier to maintain. It's kind of like the difference between playing basketball vs holding a core plank position. You get a workout either way but holding a position for a long time gets taxing much quicker. On longer/boring rides I'll even move as far up in my seat as possible to reduce my core angle and the amount of work it has to do, but I still do my best to not put any weight on my arms as that hinders the ability to maneuver the bike.
 
Ive really noticed lately that getting the balls of my feet exactly in the right spot on the pegs pushes my knees into the tank and removes the pressure from my wrists. replacing the stock foot pegs was the cure.


All, Thanks for the feedback I appreciate it.
 
Tried this plastic pos and after only a few rides took it off and threw it in my box of useless .....
 
To each their own... I have one of these cramp-busters on my bike and like it. Helps against right hand cramping for me on long rides.

I also have the tank grip tape and the Driven D-3 grips, which are thicker than stock. They help dampen vibration and provide a better grip.
 
try Stomp-Grips (rubber grips for sides of tank - available in clear or black) - a perfect solution
 
@ CaliDuc - If by wrist fatigue you mean something like carpal tunnel type discomfort, then sure, a crampbuster or similar product can help - certainly worth a try, since they're cheap, easy to come by and easy to get on and off. I have one, and use it occasionally - generally just when I'm going to be doing a long day that includes a good bit of freeway riding. Throw it on for the transit to the fun zone, then toss it under the tail until it's time for the return leg.

If the issue is too much weight on your hands, then that's down to pure ergonomics - how You fit on Your Bike. Yeah, gripping the tank with your knees will help as will tank pads, but they're really just bandaids as far as wrist pressure is concerned. The true problem is that you're off-balance. Most sportbikes do not have adjustable ergonomics, but while all stock Panigales are built the same and have the same rider triangle, all Panigale riders are not and do not. If while sitting on the bike in a normal riding position, you have to exert much muscular tension to stay there when you let go of the bars, then you need to change something to tweak your CG. We all have a "personal" CG that our brains will always be trying to put us in sync with (on the bike or off) and if we're off balance not only are we going to be uncomfortable, we're not going to have the best control of the bike. So proper position is not just a comfort issue, it's a performance issue as well. Anyone telling you to just suck it up and deal with it is wasting your time.

Of course, moving your contact points on a bike (Pani included) means buying parts, which it shouldn't. Look at a KTM RC8R for an example of how it should be. Significantly adjustable bar height and sweep, adjustable rearsets and an adjustable subframe height & seat position. IMHO there's no good excuse for all manufacturers not offering as much. I mean really; would we accept cars that came with an unmoveable seat and fixed seat/wheel/pedal relationship? Of course not; most of us would immediately recognize that as ridiculous, but we somehow fail to see the same thing as such with motorbikes.

Just because a bike fits someone else out of the box doesn't mean it fits you. Get yourself "centered" and you'll be more comfortable and go quicker as well.
 
If I am just riding in town or out and about for shorter rides, I don't use anything but if I am doing long legs of riding between stops (110 to 125 miles) I swear by the crampbuster. I sometimes ride in groups of Harley bikes and we will do long stretches between stops. The crampbuster is the only thing I have found that allows me to be able to do it without too much discomfort.
 
If I am just riding in town or out and about for shorter rides, I don't use anything but if I am doing long legs of riding between stops (110 to 125 miles) I swear by the crampbuster. I sometimes ride in groups of Harley bikes and we will do long stretches between stops. The crampbuster is the only thing I have found that allows me to be able to do it without too much discomfort.

I picked up one recently to play around with it, but haven't taken any long freeway trips with it yet. I tried it out a bit around town, but that's not really the ideal use case for it. Hopefully this crappy weather will clear up and I can give it a proper test.
 

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