Anyone here using BrakeTech Rear Brake Rotors Part Number BTD245.1RS* ?

BMW Alpina · May 30, 2020

Hello,
Anyone here using BrakeTech Rear Brake Rotors Part Number BTD245.1RS* for the Panigale V4?

If yes, can you please kindly help by posting:
a. The picture of the rotors on your bike, I want to see how nice it looks
b. The picture of the back of the bobbin, because I want to see if the bobbin have some kind of circlip so I can remove the bobbin to anodize it.
c. The picture of the relieve/cut that you need to do to the ABS ring to clear the bobbin

Thank You in advance

Bruce Wayne · May 30, 2020

Be aware that a floating rear rotor can cause a problem with the TC depending on how much movement the carrier has. I know you probably won't be riding it but thought you should be aware. I have a carbon disc direct mount, it's a sicom

endodoc · May 30, 2020

endodoc · May 30, 2020

1The bobbin clip is a flat spiral and is easily removable
2 yes you will need to cut a hallow relief cut into the sensor wheel. A Dremel works well for this. It’s maybe 2mm
3 I have a safety nut on the ring retention screws as the internal carrier threads were a bit loose. Yes of course, Ti

endodoc · May 30, 2020

In this application the sensor ring is attached directly to the carrier which does not float so there is no issue in that regard

Mick1976 · May 30, 2020

Been running them strong for years zero issues zero maintenance.

BMW Alpina · May 30, 2020

Bruce Wayne said:
Be aware that a floating rear rotor can cause a problem with the TC depending on how much movement the carrier has. I know you probably won't be riding it but thought you should be aware. I have a carbon disc direct mount, it's a sicom

Hello Bruce Wayne,
Thank You for this information, I learn new thing again from you today. I am sure your SICOM carbon rotor is an even better and nicer solution for braking purposes.
Thank You again.

Mick1976 said:
Been running them strong for years zero issues zero maintenance.

Hello Mick1976,
Thank You for the information and the 2 pictures. Your 2 pictures only shown when I was writing this reply in draft mode, so I will reattached it again so others can see your nice IRON rotor. I am also glad to hear it is a reliable solution.
I really like your IRON rotors with round shape, It looks more "PROFESSIONAL" then the PETAL Stainless Steel shape.
However, I think most likely I will purchase the PETAL Stainless Steel shape, just because:
a. The iron rotor GunKote black coating need to be cleared by riding the bike, and I don't plan on riding it (but at the same time, I want my rotor to look shiny for my display purposes)
b. However, with the black coating gone, unless I clear coat paint it, the iron rotor will rust.

endodoc said:
1The bobbin clip is a flat spiral and is easily removable
2 yes you will need to cut a hallow relief cut into the sensor wheel. A Dremel works well for this. It’s maybe 2mm
3 I have a safety nut on the ring retention screws as the internal carrier threads were a bit loose. Yes of course, Ti

endodoc said:
In this application the sensor ring is attached directly to the carrier which does not float so there is no issue in that regard

Hello Endodoc,
Thank You for the detailed pictures and all the information. Last night when I post this, I was betting myself that I think Endodoc must used this setup in the past, but I wasn't sure because I could not find your old post related to the rear rotor, but as usual, you had been there, done it. Great idea on the "safety nut"... I already purchased a bolt kit from ProTi for the standard factory rotor to attached the sensor wheel, so I will need to order a custom slightly longer bolt with safety nut now... oh well...
I assume those flat spiral bobbin clip is a SpiroLoks? hmmm... maybe, I should just source them from Jeff just to be sure
I emailed Jeff at BrakeTech asking if he could supply the bobbin in gold color a few days ago, and he was not able to offer that so I will have to anodize them myself. maybe, I should anodize the carrier too. This is exciting.
Last, The way you relief cut that sensor wheel is AMAZING, like it was made like that from the factory. Did you do that with your own hand using a Dremel? Or did you do yours using a CNC machine?

endodoc · May 30, 2020

I positioned the ring in a static 4 jaw chuck using the outside jaws to hold the inside of the ring. Installed the chuck on the rotary indexer and put a Dremel drum sander in the lathe. Obviously you don’t need to do that. A hand Dremel and a drum sander will work fine. I use this indexer a lot if I need to do precision incremental work on a circular part.

endodoc · May 30, 2020

Now all that being said, I have to add that this is the second BT rear on this bike. The first one lasted about 8k before the buttons became noticeably out of spec and The disc moved around considerably and I don’t use the rear often and this bike has virtually zero rear pad drag. I think the BT design is novel and has functional merit but I like the T drive (Brembo, TK, Sicom)better for a couple of reasons. I will be pulling this BT rotor off in the next few weeks and putting the Sicom rear on for no other reason than it’s been sitting in a box, I don’t use the rear anyhow and it weighs nothing.

BMW Alpina · May 30, 2020

endodoc said:
I positioned the ring in a static 4 jaw chuck using the outside jaws to hold the inside of the ring. Installed the chuck on the rotary indexer and put a Dremel drum sander in the lathe. Obviously you don’t need to do that. A hand Dremel and a drum sander will work fine. I use this indexer a lot if I need to do precision incremental work on a circular part.
View attachment 31642

Very nice Endodoc, I will try to figure out a way to do what you did to hold the ring steady but with less elaborate setup of course

endodoc · May 30, 2020

A cool project if someone was so inclined would be to take the solid Sicom rear disc and cut it to fit the Braketech carrier

BMW Alpina · May 30, 2020

endodoc said:
A cool project if someone was so inclined would be to take the solid Sicom rear disc and cut it to fit the Braketech carrier

I would be eager to take on that project if the SICOM carbon (the friction surface) is shiny like steel

which is of course not possible (at least not at the current coloring technology as far as I know).

endodoc · May 30, 2020

It’s a static display, just shoot the disc with some spray paint LOL

BMW Alpina · May 30, 2020

endodoc said:
Now all that being said, I have to add that this is the second BT rear on this bike. The first one lasted about 8k before the buttons became noticeably out of spec and The disc moved around considerably and I don’t use the rear often and this bike has virtually zero rear pad drag. I think the BT design is novel and has functional merit but I like the T drive (Brembo, TK, Sicom)better for a couple of reasons. I will be pulling this BT rotor off in the next few weeks and putting the Sicom rear on for no other reason than it’s been sitting in a box, I don’t use the rear anyhow and it weighs nothing.

Hi Endodoc,
How many miles do you currently have on this this second BrakeTech rear rotor? and who make those Titanium bolts that hold the Rear Phonic Wheel? MotoCorse or Podium Racing?
Thanks

endodoc · May 30, 2020

Maybe 5k on the second rotor. I had another one off brand on there in between the BT rotors. The ring screws are Podium and the nuts are Mettec. I don’t use podium fasteners for anything structural but for me, they are fine for stuff like this. Anything specialty in Ti I use Motocorse (swingarm pinch bolts, axle nuts) General Ti metric its Mettec or Poggipolini. I had a bunch of fasteners from ProTi but I’m just not a fan of internally wrenching fasteners if I can avoid it. I like to be able to safety wire if I have to and I like the positive drive of external wrenching especially 12 point.

able duc · May 30, 2020

BMW Alpina said:
I would be eager to take on that project if the SICOM carbon (the friction surface) is shiny like steel which is of course not possible (at least not at the current coloring technology as far as I know).

WOW sicom rotor with a Ti axle and all Ti associated hardware would be the ultimate bling for display, very very cool. Ed post up an image when you stick that rear rotor on.

endodoc · May 30, 2020

Not really into the “bling thing” this was mostly an idea to remove sprung weight. The Ti flange is not as light as the Aluminum flange but I already had it. Stock axle is on the left. I had the stock flange design modded a bit and the drive pins are Ti as well. Mick I guess has a rear Ti axle from a different manufacturer but I haven’t seen what it looks like. I’m sure there are others as well. Not a huge weight savings but starting from scratch, I needed axles and I think a new stock axle from Ducati is probably 500 bucks

BMW Alpina · May 30, 2020

endodoc said:
Not really into the “bling thing” this was mostly an idea to remove sprung weight. The Ti flange is not as light as the Aluminum flange but I already had it. Stock axle is on the left. I had the stock flange design modded a bit and the drive pins are Ti as well. Mick I guess has a rear Ti axle from a different manufacturer but I haven’t seen what it looks like. I’m sure there are others as well. Not a huge weight savings but starting from scratch, I needed axles and I think a new stock axle from Ducati is probably 500 bucks

Hi Endodoc,

Why did you modified the stock flange design (I circled it in blue below)?
Was it because you see some cracks happened in that area when using Titanium instead of steel as the material? On further picture below I notice BDS still offer the Titanium rear axle in the same style as a stock flange.
I remember you sourced yours from BDS, right?
Because I think the original stock flange design (if there is no crack potential using Titanium as the material) is nicer looking due to the larger gaps between the rotor and the wheel, and give the impression of lightness/hollowness (for looks) and of course a bit lighter too due to less material. So I am curious to know your reasoning to modify it.

endodoc · May 30, 2020

One less machining process, it replicates what is on the Corse axle, it is a bit more robust and as far as how it looks, arbitrary, you can’t see it once it’s installed anyhow. As far as weight goes again arbitrary,Gram counting is fine after you have exhausted KG. If you are playing the gram counting game while there are KGs left on the table then you are in a different camp all together. That’s like cutting out chewing gum before the cake and ice cream.

BMW Alpina · May 30, 2020

endodoc said:
One less machining process, it replicates what is on the Corse axle, it is a bit more robust and as far as how it looks, arbitrary, you can’t see it once it’s installed anyhow. As far as weight goes again arbitrary,Gram counting is fine after you have exhausted KG. If you are playing the gram counting game while there are KGs left on the table then you are in a different camp all together. That’s like cutting out chewing gum before the cake and ice cream.

I see, so you are following the Corse axle design.
By the way, I just did some checking, looks like there might be differences between the 1299 and V4 rear axle (initially I thought they were the same).
The Ducati part# is 819Z0021B for the 1299 and 81920831AA for the Panigale V4. Interestingly, the 1299 rear axle is more expensive compare to the V4, maybe because 1299 no longer in production.
Well, if I end up upgrading my rear axle to Titanium it will be towards the ends of my project, but it certainly nice to have it.

Anyone here using BrakeTech Rear Brake Rotors Part Number BTD245.1RS* ?

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