Changing the Gearing Ratio for my V2

I've got a 2020 Panigale V2. I bought it in the third week of March of 2021 and have 7,000 miles on it. I exclusively ride it in the North Carolina mountains for the curves. I don't intend to track the bike, and I only ride for about 1 to 2 hours at a time. Frankly, if I didn't live in the mountains, then I wouldn't own this bike. It's all about the twisties. Generally, I stay in 2nd or 3rd gear in the curves and stay in 4th gear on the freeway.

I'd like to explore changing the gearing ratio to move the power band lower. Nothing extreme - I'd just like more torque coming out of corners. I'm looking for suggestions for both changes in teeth and which types and brands of sprockets to buy. I intend to replace both sprockets and the chain as a set.

As stock, the front sprocket has 15 teeth and the rear sprocket has 43 teeth. The chain is a Regina 520 ZRDK with 106 links. I want to stay with steel teeth, whether the rear sprocket is all steel or a hybrid of steel teeth married to an aluminum body. The stock gear ratio is 2.87.

Please let me know - for my intended use with this bike - what gear ratios you would recommend, along with what brand and model sprockets and chains. This is a winter project for me. I did notice that the new Street Fighter V2 has a 15/45 gear set, which gives a ratio of 3.00.

Thank you!

Most people will tell you if you go up one tooth on the front. It is equal to 3 on the back. I would go 44 or 45. And I like the power lower in the power band as well.

Wouldn't you go down one tooth in the front?

-1 in front...easier and cheaper. Some will say more internal stress for motor, and possible swing arm clearance issue. I dont buy it myself...i'm -1 on my 1199...

JAG

Bump for suggestions on sprocket manufacturers.

Thank you very much and Happy Turkey Day!

ducati omaha has this listed

AFAM SUPERLITE RS7 Steel Chain and Sprocket Kit - 520 Pitch

What did you end up doing? I’m thinking of dropping my front tooth to 13 also. I read in another post somewhere that maybe that creates TC calibration issues? Just want to make sure that’s not the case.

JBJR said:

What did you end up doing? I’m thinking of dropping my front tooth to 13 also. I read in another post somewhere that maybe that creates TC calibration issues? Just want to make sure that’s not the case.

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Hopefully it's pre euro 5. If not 1 tooth on the front is all you'll probably be able to recalibrate. It doesn't seem to cause any real issues with the TC but the DQS might not work on the downshifts..

thomasmryan said:

ducati omaha has this listed

AFAM SUPERLITE RS7 Steel Chain and Sprocket Kit - 520 Pitch

Click to expand...

I run superlite stuff and have for a long time. I have found you have to check the quick change rear sprockets for run out (creates a tight spot in the chain). I've had two bad ones over the last few years but the sprocket center guys have replaced them without any issue.

JBJR said:

What did you end up doing? I’m thinking of dropping my front tooth to 13 also. I read in another post somewhere that maybe that creates TC calibration issues? Just want to make sure that’s not the case.

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You can run either 14-42 with standard chain length or 15-45 with +2 links. Both ratios are identical and will allow for a successfull tire calibration and no issues with DQS up and down after.

DeussenEngines said:

You can run either 14-42 with standard chain length or 15-45 with +2 links. Both ratios are identical and will allow for a successfull tire calibration and no issues with DQS up and down after.

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Thank you. I meant 14t, by the way -- not 13t, like I wrote above. So I'm goin to try 14 / 43, first (-1 / 0).

14-43 is very likely going to make the DQS down stop working. Put 14-42 and you will be happy.

DeussenEngines said:

14-43 is very likely going to make the DQS down stop working. Put 14-42 and you will be happy.

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I thought you were saying there were not calibration issues? I guess that was just DTC? I'm going with an after market quickshifter, so maybe that works around it.

Hmm. I'm not saying you're wrong, but there's just no way that top teams are winning MotoAmerica and WSS races and championships having to run a limited set of gearing combinations. Or just having their auto blip not work. There must be some kind of way of fixing it.

JBJR said:

I thought you were saying there were not calibration issues? I guess that was just DTC? I'm going with an after market quickshifter, so maybe that works around it.

Hmm. I'm not saying you're wrong, but there's just no way that top teams are winning MotoAmerica and WSS races and championships having to run a limited set of gearing combinations. Or just having their auto blip not work. There must be some kind of way of fixing it.

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With the OEM electronics the lower reliable limit is currently 14-42 or the equivalent 15-45. It has nothing to do with aftermarket quickshifters. The only currently available option to rund a lower gearing is the full WSSP electronics kit but that’s about 6k Euro.

DeussenEngines said:

With the OEM electronics the lower reliable limit is currently 14-42 or the equivalent 15-45. It has nothing to do with aftermarket quickshifters. The only currently available option to rund a lower gearing is the full WSSP electronics kit but that’s about 6k Euro.

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Yes, that’s ultimately where I’m going is getting that WSSP kit. But I’m going to do track and club racing before that. I want to try different given combinations. Just seems kind of amazing that some don’t work with OEM electronics. That seems a major snafu/oversight from Ducati, if they are serious about getting the grassroots movement of people racing the V2 on the amateur level. I’ve never heard of any other bike having that problem. But maybe I just haven’t heard…

Anyway, I have the 14 tooth front coming. I’ll throw that out and see what happens. If I need to drop another tooth in the rear to the 42 to make the auto blipped work, we’ll, I guess I will.

Are there any other gearing combinations that don’t work with OEM electronics?