Clutch biting point

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Today, was in the garage and thought I would bleed the top clutch lever,
as last ride out was beginning to be a ...... trying to get into neutral.

Well bleed it and took a ride and now my clutch biting point has gone from just letting the lever out a small bit,
to now it's not biting until the lever is out nearly all the way.

How the hell that happen by just bleeding the top reservoir at the lever???

How can I adjust it back?
Have CRG levers by the way.
 
I guess you did bleed it the wrong way. Alway close the nipple before releasing the lever. Now you probably got more air in the system.

Restart bleeding procedure according Anithero's guide on this forum.
 
Today, was in the garage and thought I would bleed the top clutch lever,
as last ride out was beginning to be a ...... trying to get into neutral.

Well bleed it and took a ride and now my clutch biting point has gone from just letting the lever out a small bit,
to now it's not biting until the lever is out nearly all the way.

How the hell that happen by just bleeding the top reservoir at the lever???

How can I adjust it back?
Have CRG levers by the way.

That's how it has to be with no air in the system. With some air, the clutch is not disengaging totally and is starting to bite already with a small travel of the lever from totally pulled position.

Without air, the biting point is more to the fully released lever position, which is enabling the clutch to fully disengage with totally pulled lever.
 
Lol so all this time I had air in the system,
much prefer having the biting point with small travel of the lever,
never mind will have a look at the lever and see what can be done there.

Thanks
 
Well, the clutch does start to engage with slight lever travel - the problem is it is lever travel from the lever being fully released, not fully pulled in.

Think about what you're doing - you're using the lever to move a column of liquid that disengages the clutch. That liquid is not very compressible, so when the system is correct (no air in the lines) slight movement of the lever causes the clutch to engage/disengage. If you have air in the lines, then you need more lever travel to compress the air enough that the clutch will engage/disengage. Once there is enough air in the system you won't have enough lever travel to compress the air, and the clutch won't work anymore.

I had a similar problem in that I had enough air in the clutch lines that it was impossible to find neutral when the bike was cold - it simply went from 1-2 and 2-1 no matter what. Once the bike warmed up it would find neutral - I assume because the engine heat caused the brake fluid to expand and increased the volume in the lines. I was convinced I had transmission problems, but no, it was just air in the lines. Once I bled the master cylinder it worked like a charm. But I did notice the bite point was at the very beginning of the lever travel. After I thought about it, I realized that was where it should be.
 
Just as I thought :D

that is a fantastic reply and explains it a lot better now, will bleed it again this week, Ta.
 

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