Disconnect tail light
- Thread starter TsaiCo
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Ducati makes a by pass for the tail light and kick stand not sure about the headlights.
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Panigale V2 / V4 Racing Electrical Plugs
If you are installing race bodywork on your Panigale V4, these are the electrical connectors you need for the side stand and rear brake light to keep from having electronic errors and check engine lights on your dash. 96510961A - Panigale V2/V4 Rear Brake Light Plug 38610171A - Panigale V2/V4...
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Yep. The adaptor for taillight is available from Ducati and is really reasonable priced.
For front just remove the front nose and will have access. It’s on top middle of the headlight.
I do not use any kind of adaptor on front and there is no error code. But the light sign on the dash keeps blinking. Really do not remember how it was before, but think it would not do that.
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For front just remove the front nose and will have access. It’s on top middle of the headlight.
I do not use any kind of adaptor on front and there is no error code. But the light sign on the dash keeps blinking. Really do not remember how it was before, but think it would not do that.
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Track organizer doesn't care too much about front one, more of the rear.
our headlights are so small anyways...barely noticeable...lol
bTW...how hard is taking the front top off? i was doing the front windshield, i was cursing all the way through...lol
our headlights are so small anyways...barely noticeable...lol
bTW...how hard is taking the front top off? i was doing the front windshield, i was cursing all the way through...lol
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It is not bad the first time you take it off you think it feels like you are breaking something. You might look for a Youtube video by Troy Gleason (replacing the windscreen, Ducati V4) it a 2018 but all models are basically the same.
1.)You take the fill panel off (1 screw at the tank & 1 screw in the front on each side).
2.)Then there are 2 screws under that panel in the front, there is also a small slot just inside those 2 screws with a 4mm head bolts one on each side.
3.) There is also a 4mm bolt under the tip of the nose that holds the two side panels. Then pull forward gently as there is a rubber bushing the holds the tab for the top piece.
1.)You take the fill panel off (1 screw at the tank & 1 screw in the front on each side).
2.)Then there are 2 screws under that panel in the front, there is also a small slot just inside those 2 screws with a 4mm head bolts one on each side.
3.) There is also a 4mm bolt under the tip of the nose that holds the two side panels. Then pull forward gently as there is a rubber bushing the holds the tab for the top piece.
Just got it done, but I don't see the error code even before I plug the close circuit plug in?
Anyhow, it's plugged, that's all matter now! Thanks you all for tips and inspiring confidence.
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Have to confess that I didn’t see error also. But this was with engine off, not sure how would when riding. Also have the plug there and everything seem fine.
Have you disconnected the headlight? Does it blink on the dash?
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I plugged in the rear brake light plug ( but the warning light still stays on)? This is on V2
When I plug in the oem light, the warning yellow triangle goes away
I have 2 of these plugs so they cant be bad? Any idea whats going on?
When I plug in the oem light, the warning yellow triangle goes away
I have 2 of these plugs so they cant be bad? Any idea whats going on?
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I'm having same problem
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If you have a NRC fender eliminator installed, check it carefully
for me, it turned out that the plate light on NRC fender was flickering and that’s why the warning light was coming on
I reported the problem to NRC, they sent me a replacement plate light and the warning light has now gone
for me, it turned out that the plate light on NRC fender was flickering and that’s why the warning light was coming on
I reported the problem to NRC, they sent me a replacement plate light and the warning light has now gone
My bike is track only, lights are unplugged and removed, no plug eliminators used. I have a lap timer / data acquisition unit plugged into the FDA port in the tail.
No issues whatsoever, just a warning triangle on the dash.
Thanks. I actually managed to get the dongle (block-out for the tail plug) and that seemed to work OK. Now if I can only get the darn DDA software to work on a computer slightly more modern than a TRS-80...
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Do you have a push button handle bar switch. I had the CNC and my lap timer and DDA stopped working. Couldn’t figure it out at first, but put the stock control switch back on and it worked. I don’t know if it was that one unit was bad or what.
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