DQS - Upshifting Problem

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Sky

Sky

Joined
Sep 2, 2016
Messages
55
Location
Germany
Hi everyone,

I looked around the forum and couldn't find an applicable answer; hoping you can help.

I am having intermittent DQS upshifting problems. I would say it works 90% of the time like a charm / silky smooth upshifts. There are however, times at which it doesn't work and depending on the situation it can be dangerous. For instance, this week I tracked the bike, and few times during hard accelerations coming off the turn it did not upshift going from almost redline 2nd gear to 3rd, jerking the bike almost throwing me off the bike. It also happened on the straightaway not going to 4th, and intermittently around the track from time to time.

(and yes, I do keep the throttle open, and I normally upshift at higher RPMs)


The Ducati coach / tech guy (from Ducati4U event) said it might be the traction control prohibiting upshifting since on that specific turn you would have a bit of lean angle while having to accelerate. I reduced the DTC from 3 to 2, and still same issue (and plus I am not a super aggressive rider...).

Then I thought it might be the lever adjustment on how it sits on my boot and I may not give it enough push upwards... re-adjusted the lever, and even when I push up hard on the lever, same problem can happen again!

Once before (during break-in period) I asked the dealer about it and they said it is working fine and I thought it may be an "operator error". Now with more experience on the bike I think there is something off but don't have another point of comparison. Before going back to the dealer (and potentially getting brushed off again), wanted to get your thoughts/experience. Is this normal? Have you had the same issue? :confused:

Cheers guys... thanks in advance.
 
this is actually a well documented problem on this forum and many of us have had to resort to buying a whole new sensor, preferably from an aftermarket manufacturer like Translogic.

The Translogic unit, and possible other aftermarket units, use a strain gauge which is far more precise than the microswitch that comes stock on the bike. The play that's engineering into the OEM microswitch has given a lot of people grief, especially track riders, and at times, like you said, is dangerous when you're asking for the next shift and you get nothing. The Translogic unit replaces the stock sensor, comes with a new shifter arm (but you should replace it as it sucks and has been known to snap if you step to shift too hard) and the wiring is plug and play.

If you want to keep playing with the stock unit, make sure the shift arm and the lever on the rearset are at a 90 degree and to maintain positive pressure when going for the next shift; however, by the sounds of it, it looks like you've already tried that and still resulted in no change.
 
My only experience were very occasionally it would miss mainly due to less than firm shifting but it was never jerky to the point of almost throwing me off.
 
Sky said:
Hi everyone,

I looked around the forum and couldn't find an applicable answer; hoping you can help.

I am having intermittent DQS upshifting problems. I would say it works 90% of the time like a charm / silky smooth upshifts. There are however, times at which it doesn't work and depending on the situation it can be dangerous. For instance, this week I tracked the bike, and few times during hard accelerations coming off the turn it did not upshift going from almost redline 2nd gear to 3rd, jerking the bike almost throwing me off the bike. It also happened on the straightaway not going to 4th, and intermittently around the track from time to time.

(and yes, I do keep the throttle open, and I normally upshift at higher RPMs)


The Ducati coach / tech guy (from Ducati4U event) said it might be the traction control prohibiting upshifting since on that specific turn you would have a bit of lean angle while having to accelerate. I reduced the DTC from 3 to 2, and still same issue (and plus I am not a super aggressive rider...).

Then I thought it might be the lever adjustment on how it sits on my boot and I may not give it enough push upwards... re-adjusted the lever, and even when I push up hard on the lever, same problem can happen again!

Once before (during break-in period) I asked the dealer about it and they said it is working fine and I thought it may be an "operator error". Now with more experience on the bike I think there is something off but don't have another point of comparison. Before going back to the dealer (and potentially getting brushed off again), wanted to get your thoughts/experience. Is this normal? Have you had the same issue? :confused:

Cheers guys... thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Sky,

I just had this same issue along with the bike having a hard interruption while riding. Ducati replaced the electronic shifter unit ( I waited 3 weeks for the part) and and all is back to Ducati greatness.

Side note: Endodoc: YOU ARE THE MAN!!!! (you know why)
 
I too would be interested in more views as I also have this problem between 5th and 6th gears only and its not the shifter.
I have tried various lever and foot-peg angles and assumed that it was just me. if i concentrate really hard it goes in cleanly but then later on the revs rocket as I miss it again. maybe just once or twice only in a ride but disconcerting, only started end of last year. The dealer told me to hold onto the gear longer as its an "R" and needs to be ridden hard!
John UK
 
Had this problem to a degree. Changed rearsets to reduce the lever throw (~35mm OEM => 20mm since I have dinky size 7 feet) and the issue is much reduced. I agree with previous posters that the micro switch design isn't brilliant...
 
Re my first reply
I now have a "Sports Bike Developments" blip-box downshift that incorporates a two direction link for both up and down shifts but the trouble with missing sixth still occurs occasionally with this set up.
 
SuperDuc29 said:
My only experience were very occasionally it would miss mainly due to less than firm shifting but it was never jerky to the point of almost throwing me off.
Click to expand...

My experience too...I find you have to be very firm, much firmer than you would need to execute a clutched shift.
 
I had this issue yesterday trying to go from 4th to 5th. the dash even got confused and started flashing 4 and 5 back and forth real rapidly. tried it again a few times with the same results but it only happened between 4th and 5th with high rpms.
 
A quick update...

Took the bike to the dealership; he checked for software updates (it was already up to date), then he said they serviced, tightened, cleaned and lubricated the components. I havent had the chance to track the bike, but on the streets/highway it seems fine now. The shifting is more precise than before, which leads me to believe it could have been the adjustment issue!

I hope the issue is gone, but will keep you updated on how things evolve.

Cheers, and thanks for everyone's insights.
 
I also had many issues with the quick shifter and my ducati dealer actually wouldn't acknowledge the problem because while riding around at relatively low speeds the shifter worked fine but under high rpms the shifter was F@#KEN ...., it certainly wasn't the smoothest shifter I have ever used. My previous bike a CBR1000RR Honda had a bazzaz strain gauge QS which i installed and that QS was silky smooth and always faultless.

I then heard about a plug n play replacement unit by Translogic which i purchased and i tell you what it is night and day over the OEM QS.

Do yourself a MASSIVE favor and purchase the Translogic unit because it is WORLDS better than the OEM unit. In fact Ducati approached Translogic and where actually wanting to use the Translogic unit as the factory fitted OEM unit because they are that good but Ducati were not prepared to pay for a quality unit so went with a piece of .... cheap and nasty Italian made unit.

BUY THE TRANSLOGIC QS YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPPOINTED !!!
 
I have the Translogic and am in the process of having Brian (Boulder) and Mick (BSD) build a Blipbox for the R. While the Translogic is much better than OEM, it still has several drawbacks in my hands. Accelerating down a straight, from 4-5 the cut-out is such that my Boys are jammed against the tank. Coming into a corner and downshifting from 3-2 it'll over-rev into 2. Coming into a very slow corner from 2-1...it just flat-out won't...N every time. For those corners I now just use the clutch. I have experimented with foot pressure , position, etc....

I have the BB on my '12 and it is perfect.

Mat
 
I experienced similar on my 1299S w/ factory shift hardware,
& found very firm deliberate shift force got rid of any mis-shifting
 
MMC said:
I have the Translogic and am in the process of having Brian (Boulder) and Mick (BSD) build a Blipbox for the R. While the Translogic is much better than OEM, it still has several drawbacks in my hands. Accelerating down a straight, from 4-5 the cut-out is such that my Boys are jammed against the tank. Coming into a corner and downshifting from 3-2 it'll over-rev into 2. Coming into a very slow corner from 2-1...it just flat-out won't...N every time. For those corners I now just use the clutch. I have experimented with foot pressure , position, etc....

I have the BB on my '12 and it is perfect.

Mat
Click to expand...
^1+

OEM on both 1199 and 1299 is pretty ......
I've got Cordona on the 1199S (only QS), BlipBox (QS/DS) on the SL and Translogic (QS/DS) on the 1299S.

Cordona and BSD have true strain gauge sensors. Translogic claims to be the only ones that have it, but the truth is that they require some mechanical movement (approx. 1-2mm), the others don't. Also it's not possible to change the trigger force on Translogic's unit.
Had a minor problem with Translogic's pushrod and I am very disapointed about their sales and services.

For QS/DS I would go the BlipBox route again. BSD and Mick are awesome!
 
Gecko said:
Also it's not possible to change the trigger force on Translogic's unit.
Had a minor problem with Translogic's pushrod and I am very disapointed about their sales and services.
Click to expand...

Bummer. Just had one delivered on Friday.
 
Stupid question, but can someone tell me how to remove my stock shiftrod on a 1299S. Looks like I need to remove the clutch slave banjo connection? TIA


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Do not undo the clutch banjo! Instead undo the three bolts that hold the slave cylinder and remove the cylinder instead. Be careful when re-installing that you locate the pin on the activation rod into the slot on the slave cylinder.
 
razz said:
Do not undo the clutch banjo! Instead undo the three bolts that hold the slave cylinder and remove the cylinder instead. Be careful when re-installing that you locate the pin on the activation rod into the slot on the slave cylinder.
Click to expand...



The engine oil won't leak with the slave removed? I need to remove the shifter pedal pivot, but this is super tight. Any tips? Do I need to stop it putting pressure on the internal shift forks and components while I apply force to the pivot bolt? TIA


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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