flapper valve - wire it or tack weld it

Ducati Forum

Help Support Ducati Forum:

K

kismetcapitan

Joined
Jun 3, 2015
Messages
1,037
Location
Nashville TN
do either. that spring isn't strong enough to hold the butterfly open at full power. I was *planning* to do it but didn't get around to it. that just wasted an hour on the dyno :(
 
I'd wire it. There is a tab on the black part which holds the spring rests against. A few wraps of safety wire should do the trick.

I take it you removed everything else but left the actual valve in place?
 
bp7178 said:
I'd wire it. There is a tab on the black part which holds the spring rests against. A few wraps of safety wire should do the trick.

I take it you removed everything else but left the actual valve in place?
Click to expand...

yep. I'm keeping that safety wire on, and will get it tack welded. Come winter, I'm pulling the pipes, then having the Y-pipe refinished with the flapper cleanly removed, before ceramic coating everything.
 
kismetcapitan said:
yep. I'm keeping that safety wire on, and will get it tack welded. Come winter, I'm pulling the pipes, then having the Y-pipe refinished with the flapper cleanly removed, before ceramic coating everything.
Click to expand...

i offer that as well in the process of the exhaust coring/ loudifying ... :cool:
 
just cut it out, its pretty easy: dremel the flapper valve rivets off, the flapper will come right out, then you can use a sawzaw and cut the bar that holds the flapper out, work it till you can pull the 2 ends out and buy a bolt to plug the hole!!

Short and simple version....
 
crazyduc996 said:
just cut it out, its pretty easy: dremel the flapper valve rivets off, the flapper will come right out, then you can use a sawzaw and cut the bar that holds the flapper out, work it till you can pull the 2 ends out and buy a bolt to plug the hole!!

Short and simple version....
Click to expand...

what I will end up doing is pulling the entire Y-pipe out, and get the entire thing cut out, including the ends that stick out of the sides of the pipe. Then the holes will get patched and smoothed over, then everything will get ceramic coated.
 
kismetcapitan said:
do either. that spring isn't strong enough to hold the butterfly open at full power. I was *planning* to do it but didn't get around to it. that just wasted an hour on the dyno :(
Click to expand...

How could you tell it wasn't holding it open at full power?!
Could you see it move or did the dyno run show it?!
 
bp7178 said:
I'd wire it. There is a tab on the black part which holds the spring rests against. A few wraps of safety wire should do the trick.

I take it you removed everything else but left the actual valve in place?
Click to expand...

I have just disconnected mine, going to wire it today!
Think I know where you mean as to where you have wired it too. If anyone has a pic just for reference?!
I take one when I do mine
 
If you look at the valve and rotate it by hand it should be obvious where you'll need to wire it.

I think the issue is in removing the actual servo motor and cable but leaving the valve in place. Without the cable there's nothing other than the spring holding it open.
 
So I lock wired the spring to the tab it rests against at weekend but the wire slipped off! Was going to file a slight indent in the tab so wire stays located.
(I am not a mechanic! :( )
Anyone have an issue with the wire coming away?!
 
Removed mine when I installed full Akro, but hoping you all can educate me.
I always thought the servo closed the valve working against the spring which held it open. If the spring can't keep valve open, wouldn't all stock systems have issues staying open above certain rpms?
Feedback please.
Thx
 
90Swampfox said:
Removed mine when I installed full Akro, but hoping you all can educate me.
I always thought the servo closed the valve working against the spring which held it open. If the spring can't keep valve open, wouldn't all stock systems have issues staying open above certain rpms?
Feedback please.
Thx
Click to expand...

correct, the spring is not strong enough to keep it open at WOT above approx 9k.
 
90Swampfox said:
Removed mine when I installed full Akro, but hoping you all can educate me.
I always thought the servo closed the valve working against the spring which held it open. If the spring can't keep valve open, wouldn't all stock systems have issues staying open above certain rpms?
Feedback please.
Thx
Click to expand...

I think the issue is that guys are removing the servo and cable but leaving the valve and depending solely on the spring.

If the servo and cable are in place, but the servo is unplugged, the now non-functional servo would be holding it open.
 
bp7178 said:
I think the issue is that guys are removing the servo and cable but leaving the valve and depending solely on the spring.

If the servo and cable are in place, but the servo is unplugged, the now non-functional servo would be holding it open.
Click to expand...

With the cable and servo in place on mine I can still move the valve fairly easily, the servo does not hold the valve open.
 
Servo closes, spring holds it open. So I would think the spring is strong enough to hold it open or it would close at high rpm even with the servo. I wired mine open anyways just in case.
 

Similar threads

B
Ohlins High Speed Damping Valves
Replies
0
Views
410
baggerman
B
S
Idle gear (plastic) and primary sprocket failure – 2017 1299 Pani
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
baggerman
B
F
Panigale V4S DQS custom fix
Replies
0
Views
393
Fulcrum
F
L
Panigale V4S 2022
Replies
2
Views
327
SBK-SP
SBK-SP
F
2018 Panigale V4S bits of gold in oil, some questions on next steps
Replies
19
Views
336
shade
shade

Register CTA

Register on Ducati Forum! This sidebar will go away, and you will see fewer ads.

Recent Discussions

Recent Discussions

Back
Top