Fork Height // Ohlins FGRT203

I recently upgraded my stock suspension to the full Ohlins fork (FGRT203), but I mistakenly took the old forks off before measuring how high they sat above the upper triple tree. Sadly, this is the measurement that the documentation from Ohlins references for where to install their forks.

Once I realized this problem, I went back to the Ducati service manual and found the measurements they use (from the lower triple to the top of the stock forks). So I reinstalled the OEM fork just so I could get the measurement. That came out to just about 5-6mm above the upper triple. I say "about" because measuring from the lower triple was a bit less than precise, given my available tools.

To double check myself, I drove over to the local Ducati shop and measured the forks on one of their showroom bikes... 7.5mm. So at this point, I don't know which to trust.... as such, I'm curious as to what others with this fork have done with theirs. Anyone got any tips?

Also, when discussing the point on the FGRT203 fork that Ohlins is calling the top, are they speaking to the bevel edge where the fork tube slopes in to meet the cap or the actual point at which the cap meets the fork tube? The difference between these two points (see picture) is about 4mm, so it certainly doesn't seem trivial. Anyone got any thoughts here?


Signed, confused shade-tree mechanic.

on the stock Ohlins forks, the S model, that measure it's pretty close to 1 mm. I'll check better tonight but I'm pretty confident, I just took off the forks last WE to get the seals replaced.

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This is how mine sits. Installed by the dealer i purchased the bike from.

Hmm, that's lower than OEM. Were your factory forks that low in the triple?

No clue. I don't remember.

kinser said:

Hmm, that's lower than OEM. Were your factory forks that low in the triple?

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Do you have a base model?

b9009b said:

Do you have a base model?

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Yep, base model.

kinser said:

Yep, base model.

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I'll go measure mine in the dark lol. BRB. I'll measure from the upper clamp to the top of the marz forks and then the mid clamp up to the top of the forks.

Ok the top of the upper clamp to the top of the marz forks is 6mm

the top of the lower clamp to the top of the forks is 242mm

pic of top clamp to top of fork

20150324_221301 by oldcitymoto, on Flickr

The service manual says to measure from the top of bottom yoke to the top of the tube.

b9009b said:

Ok the top of the upper clamp to the top of the marz forks is 6mm

the top of the middle clamp to the top of the forks is 242mm

pic of top clamp to top of fork

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Perfect. The upper measurement (6mm) makes sense... when I attempted to put my forks back in per the service manual measurements (as noted by bp7178), I came up with just under 6mm. I guess I was closer than I thought.

Thanks for the help guys!

bp7178 said:

The service manual says to measure from the top of bottom yoke to the top of the tube.

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Be aware that this is a S fork.

In my opinion, you will never notice the 1.5 mm difference. I have mine ('12 Tri) dropped in the front to the tune of 10mm exposed. I like the quickness of the steering in this position, and for the street there have been no pushing or tucking issues. I also have the tail as high as it will go on the shock adjustment. I have had both ends reworked by Ohlins, so that may come into play as well. Shock spring is way softer (3 steps), and the front is a half step softer as well - both have the latest damping specs from Ohlins Racing Dept., and I use the Flat link position. 40/30mm sag front/rear. Personal preferences, but I feel on the street, the Pani is a bit "sluggish" to respond at OEM positions. May be why Ducati chose to reduce the rake angle by one-half degree on the new model. Of course you can get that light on the toes feeling by jacking up your front tire pressure, but that opens a whole new can of worms (being flippant - don't do it). This bike has been far more challenging to sort than my 2011 SP. I will get there eventually.

I have the FGRT203's on mine and have them set at 5mm to the top of the bevel per Ohlins.

HarmonyJim said:

In my opinion, you will never notice the 1.5 mm difference. I have mine ('12 Tri) dropped in the front to the tune of 10mm exposed. I like the quickness of the steering in this position, and for the street there have been no pushing or tucking issues. I also have the tail as high as it will go on the shock adjustment. I have had both ends reworked by Ohlins, so that may come into play as well. Shock spring is way softer (3 steps), and the front is a half step softer as well - both have the latest damping specs from Ohlins Racing Dept., and I use the Flat link position. 40/30mm sag front/rear. Personal preferences, but I feel on the street, the Pani is a bit "sluggish" to respond at OEM positions. May be why Ducati chose to reduce the rake angle by one-half degree on the new model. Of course you can get that light on the toes feeling by jacking up your front tire pressure, but that opens a whole new can of worms (being flippant - don't do it). This bike has been far more challenging to sort than my 2011 SP. I will get there eventually.

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You just answered 5 questions I was going to email Ohlins about lol. Another one though. What did you do when you have the base model oe forks and shock? Mine is brand new still and doesnt turn in exactly like the dialed in 1199's I test rode. It turns in amazingly I just notice its not as awesome as the others.

hawaiiduc said:

I have the FGRT203's on mine and have them set at 5mm to the top of the bevel per Ohlins.

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Thanks! This makes sense and lines up pretty well with what we were collectively working towards... It's nice to hear that's what ohlins recommended though.

I'm with HarmonyJim. Mine is 8mm from top triple clamp to top of bevel.
I like how it handles at the moment, although it was accidentally se tup like that.
I'm now thinking whether i should try raising the front / dropping the fork to oem spec, but am reluctant to try that.

b9009b, what I noticed when first looking at the base and S models was the difference in the spring rates. The base models are significantly softer, and I bet they track over bumps (when leaned over) far better than the Ohlins-equipped models. This softness may influence the turn in, but I would have thought softer springs would have improved it some - maybe the base fork damping comes into play and it is operating in a different part of the fork stroke than the Ohlins bikes. I found mine was far more composed over bumps mid turn, and it stopped wallowing after I softened the springs and the damping (the new Ohlins damping for the shock is well less then HALF the specs the bike is shipped with. It was explained to me that the factory upped the damping rates tremendously (especially compression) over what Ohlins suggested because of the passenger-carrying issues involved (read: liability). Single up, they are totally wrong. If you are on a glass-smooth road or track the rates are fine. Throw bumps into the mixture, and it is off the mark. I come from racing TZ250s for Yamaha many years ago, and so I am spoiled silly as to how a bike should handle. Good luck with your mods...I am sure we can all get the bikes where we want them eventually, it just takes some perseverance and patience.

I have FGRT203 and it's 5.5mm above the triple. And depends on your spring rate too. I can have forks sit 8mm high, but dial in lots of preload.

Go go ride the damn thing.