Information request regarding "frame" sliders

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Joined
Sep 23, 2012
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301
Location
Niagara Falls, Ontario, CANADA
Good Afternoon,

I would like to start off by thanking everyone in advance for possibly helping out on this information request and for checking it out.

I am looking to take the bike out to the track this year and would be a little more comfortable knowing that I have something to protect what I can if I low-side. The two sets of sliders that I have been considering are the T-Rex kits and the Sato units. The T-Rex looks quite beefy and more than capable, but the Sato units are more to my style but I have concerns about their possible durability... Looks are deceiving, so this is where you guys come in

I see that a few people on this forum have each of the sets and I was hoping to get some information, as I do not want to order something that will be a hassle to return if I don't think I like it and such... More specifcially if I could get the following information regarding the units from actually users (Broke it down into each manufacturer):

T-Rex:
- What is the measured thickness of the aluminum brackets?
- What is the measured thickness of the Delrin on each side?
- Thoughts on product

Sato:
- What is the measured thickness of the aluminum bracket (are they all the same thickness)?
- What is the length/thickness of the Delrin?
- What is the width of the slider?

Once again thanks so much in advance and my apologies for the length!!

Jeff
 
just my 2 cents here but i think sliders are a total waste of money. This bike doesnt have a frame its plastic and engine thats it. unfortunately if you go down the bike is wrecked and i for one wont want it back. so you have a slider lets say on your clutch cover so the rest of the bike will take the brunt of the hit. The only thing a slider will work for is if you knock the bike over and thats a big maybe. have you seen some pictures of how this bike wrecks. unfortunately a person on this forum went down and destroyed the bike (great that he is ok) look at the pictures. you tell me how the slider will save the bike lol. save the coin for your deductible.
 
I have seen the pictures and quite a few others like it for other bikes (Glad that each and everyone walked away with their life). I know that it is a love/hate relationship with the sliders and in some cases, I do agree with you. This is just a piece of mind item for me.

As for the saving it up for the deductable... I'm fortunate enough to have this motorcycle, especially since here in Canada we have some of the worst insurance rates and rules.

I only have one insurance company in my province that will insure this bike, and it is as a waiver type of insurance (Disclosure: I have a driving record cleaner than a virgin before Prom night). Any claim I put on it will likely result in no available insurance... The piece of mind comes from the possibility that I can save as much as possible, if at all as on the track it will end up out of pocket for my mistake(s).

In contrast, I slid my street '01 ZX-6 in 2002 at the track and the sliders worked completely and effectively enough that I had to only use a medium scratch remover on the factory paint to restore the bike to its original shine. The sliders were ground down a bit and one bolt started to bend a bit, but that was it... Mind you, I only low-sided at about 65MPH. On the flip-side of that... My buddy low-sided at the track at about 40MPH and his slider caught something and flipped all over the place and was absolutely destroyed.


I do appreciate you taking the time to provide your feedback,

Jeff
 
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Thanks for the provided search items Phil.

I have actually already seen all of them before I had posted this request up as the information just wasn't there that I'm looking for.

I'll have to check again and see who admits to having each kind and hit them up via PM, worse case.


Jeff
 
Thanks for the provided search items Phil.

I have actually already seen all of them before I had posted this request up as the information just wasn't there that I'm looking for.

I'll have to check again and see who admits to having each kind and hit them up via PM, worse case.


Jeff

Not many of us have had direct experience with sliding on them on a Pani. I have Rizomas, I think they are grate axle sliders, but do nothing for the frame. I think the Satos have the best coverage/looks.
 
Thanks for the provided search items Phil.

I have actually already seen all of them before I had posted this request up as the information just wasn't there that I'm looking for.

I'll have to check again and see who admits to having each kind and hit them up via PM, worse case.


Jeff

why exactly are you looking for thicknesses?

in terms of overall crash protection, i would look for a product covering most of the critical components (largest surface)
in that concern the GB racing are ... simply the best:
PANIGALE GB RACING CASE COVERS PROTECTORS - austinracing

:D
 
why exactly are you looking for thicknesses?

in terms of overall crash protection, i would look for a product covering most of the critical components (largest surface)
in that concern the GB racing are ... simply the best:
PANIGALE GB RACING CASE COVERS PROTECTORS - austinracing

:D

I'm looking for the thickness of the brackets to compare what type provides the best resistance to breakage (My work has engineering software for testing breakage and stress limits (in theory) and is used for freeway and bridge design). I know it is only in theory, of course, as any variable can change that... Especially what type of aluminum strength is being used.

The T-Rex sliders look like they are built on the principle of "bulk will save the day", and I have no doubt about that... but they are ugly (My opinion).

Whereas the Sato looks like they trying to be stylish and looking for the sliders to grind down and the bolt to bend to resist breakage.

As for the length request for the actual Delrin slider... That's just so I can can get a tape measure out and figure out how far these things actually stick out. My ZX-10 sliders were nearly 2.5" in width and almost 4" long and protected all contact points from hitting the plastic. I could lay it on its side and it was like it was on table.

Sato looks nice in my books, but those brackets are possibly thin, and the slider appears to possibly be quite small and not stick out too far which would do nothing for the body work.

Looks are typically deceiving... Especially in product advertisement. If I could get to a shop that had them in person and wasn't 100+ miles away, I'd go measure it up and look myself.
 
As an engineer; I'm sure you have taken a look at the weakest link of the chain, so to speak, and both of these slider kits are attached to the weakest possible points on the non-frame bike. A slide on this is not going to end pretty. In fact; it is my position; and I'm sure Mark ail agree, that the point of contact of these sliders will ensure internal damage as the increase PSI per points of contact is dramatically increased, rather than the broad surface that is already present.

Saving body work will be the least of your problems in any type of slide.

Point is; if you can't afford to be ready to wreck it and walk away from it; then you really shouldnt have it on the track

I'm looking for the thickness of the brackets to compare what type provides the best resistance to breakage (My work has engineering software for testing breakage and stress limits (in theory) and is used for freeway and bridge design). I know it is only in theory, of course, as any variable can change that... Especially what type of aluminum strength is being used.

The T-Rex sliders look like they are built on the principle of "bulk will save the day", and I have no doubt about that... but they are ugly (My opinion).

Whereas the Sato looks like they trying to be stylish and looking for the sliders to grind down and the bolt to bend to resist breakage.

As for the length request for the actual Delrin slider... That's just so I can can get a tape measure out and figure out how far these things actually stick out. My ZX-10 sliders were nearly 2.5" in width and almost 4" long and protected all contact points from hitting the plastic. I could lay it on its side and it was like it was on table.

Sato looks nice in my books, but those brackets are possibly thin, and the slider appears to possibly be quite small and not stick out too far which would do nothing for the body work.

Looks are typically deceiving... Especially in product advertisement. If I could get to a shop that had them in person and wasn't 100+ miles away, I'd go measure it up and look myself.
 
I have the SATO frame sliders (with suspension) fitted on my bike. IMHO SATO make the best product on the market and these particular frame sliders are a prudent investment.

There are several members of this forum that have also fitted SATO frame sliders, so far all the feedback is positive.
 
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I've low sided my bike as have others I know one having a real decent crash the bike holds up really well actually .
I just use bar end sliders which hold the bike up as does the bodywork as well .
 
This was my next line of questioning and trying to figure out...

If these bikes are just not meant to have sliders... How are those R&G Carbon Fiber Tank and Tail protectors holding up on downs?

I've seen some of the race bikes that have the Tank slider, but nothing on the tail.


This all may just be the wrong place to ask these questions without having too many issues come up of opinions and differing thoughts.


I've low sided my bike as have others I know one having a real decent crash the bike holds up really well actually .
I just use bar end sliders which hold the bike up as does the bodywork as well .
 
As an engineer; I'm sure you have taken a look at the weakest link of the chain, so to speak, and both of these slider kits are attached to the weakest possible points on the non-frame bike. A slide on this is not going to end pretty. In fact; it is my position; and I'm sure Mark ail agree, that the point of contact of these sliders will ensure internal damage as the increase PSI per points of contact is dramatically increased, rather than the broad surface that is already present.

Let me clarify this one, I am not an engineer, just have access to the software at work (and a few bridge builders themselves)... I can agree however that this is weak points which is why I got to asking the questions.

Saving body work will be the least of your problems in any type of slide..
Certainly true... However there is a potential difference between bodywork outright destroyed and just needing a quick prep and re-paint

Point is; if you can't afford to be ready to wreck it and walk away from it; then you really shouldnt have it on the track

If that were the case, there would be a lot fewer riders and even less people willing to enjoy the sport of riding. No need to mention that if less people actively participate in riding, means even more ignorance to our sport. I have a hard enough time in a tourist town not getting killed by cagers.

I'm seeking information to help make an informed buying decision and try to feel good about justifying it. I do greatly appreciate all of this thought provoking conversation whether it be opinion based or facts based.
 
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Firm believer in frame sliders, high-sided in turn #1 a few years ago at Road Atlanta on my R1, bike slid from apex of turn #1 almost to the top of the hill. Only a minor scratch on engine case cover (carbon fiber cover), and the ball on the end of my clutch lever had grind down flat and a couple of scratched on fairing. That was it!!! I've installed the T-Rex sliders and I love the look and I have no intentions of giving you a report on how they work in a real world situation:D
 
I've installed the T-Rex sliders and I love the look and I have no intentions of giving you a report on how they work in a real world situation:D

Yeah, they do look quite beefy and capable of holding their own!

As for getting a report... I hope to never have to hear that someone tried out and tested the sliders, but we get them, for the "just in case". Same as people that do or don't believe in AGATT... We spend the money to hope to never use it but have it there, just in case.
 

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