Mobil-1 5w-30?

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Hey chicos,

So I have always used Mobil-1 10w-40 full snyth 4t racing oil. The thing is, it is a track bike only and I change the oil every 3rd track day or so.

At $70 per 6 quarts, it is an expensive change. I see I can get the Mobil 1 5w30 full synth for around $26 per 6 quarts. Due to the volume I am changing, should I go to that? Or would you stick to the 5w40?

Thanks!
 
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go to amazon get castrol 10w 40 or 10w 50 it is roughly 48 bucks for 6 qts. problem solved and great oil. full synthetic
 
10w40 or 10w50 is fine. get the 10w50 as the ducati asks for 15 w50 the first number means nothing unless you are running your bike in very cold temeratures. 8.25 a qt no tax free ship vs 13 for amsoil plus tax and shipping vs 18 for motul youre changing your oil enough where its not going to make much difference you can even use rotella t6


http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-06412...sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=castrol+10w50+racing+rt
 
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5w30 does NOT have enough sheer strength for track use. You'd have to use at least 10w30. 15w30, 15w40, 15w50, or 20w50 would be a better choice.

More research is needed.
I use 20w50.
AMSOIL 20W-50 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil

20w50 breaks down into 10w30 eventually, in my testing. But 5w30 breaks down into crap in my testing.

there is no difference between 10w30 5w30 at all. the 10w is how the oil acts at temperature. the w means winter weight.
 
In a perfect world, that's correct.

But if you've tested oil and engines to their failure point, there's a big difference. Especially in shear strength. Seems that oils with a larger 1st # walk all over the protection levels of lighter oils at operating temps.

5w30 is not even close to the protection level of 10w30. Even with the last # being the same. It ain't easy getting oil to swing that much. That's why 0w30 is only available in full synthetic. 15w30 would stomp 5w30 in testing.

10w40 can break down as it ages. Down to around 5w30 performance. 5w30 breaks down into crap. My truck takes 5w20 or 5w30. For towing in the summer, I switch to 10w30. 10w has a much better shear strength.

15w40 is king of all my testing. Possibly why darn near every large generator engine uses it, or straight 40w.

What about 15w50? It breaks down to 10w30 performance levels quite quickly. Henceforth why those engines are quite strict about oil changes. Before that though, it's performance was excellent. Makes sense. if the oil is only used in high performance or race engines, who cares if it breaks down quickly, if the trade off is superior protection during the normal maintenance window.

Also keep in mind how hot the Panigales run in traffic. That's not easy on oil. We don't need to waste $$$ on oil here by sticking to specific brand. But this is not a good spot to save money either. As long as you get proper decent oil, like the variety others have mentioned, you're good to go. But using very cheap auto oils, I don't recommend.
 
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while i agree with you buliwyf i will say a track day is about 110 miles total a day if he is changing his oil every 3 track days it doesnt matter brand he uses
 
I agree. Any decent brand will be fine, in the proper viscosity.

I'm not certain what auto oil will do to the clutch, so I'd avoid auto oils.
 
In a perfect world, that's correct.

But if you've tested oil and engines to their failure point, there's a big difference. Especially in shear strength. Seems that oils with a larger 1st # walk all over the protection levels of lighter oils at operating temps.

5w30 is not even close to the protection level of 10w30. Even with the last # being the same. It ain't easy getting oil to swing that much. That's why 0w30 is only available in full synthetic. 15w30 would stomp 5w30 in testing.

10w40 can break down as it ages. Down to around 5w30 performance. 5w30 breaks down into crap. My truck takes 5w20 or 5w30. For towing in the summer, I switch to 10w30. 10w has a much better shear strength.

15w40 is king of all my testing. Possibly why darn near every large generator engine uses it, or straight 40w.

What about 15w50? It breaks down to 10w30 performance levels quite quickly. Henceforth why those engines are quite strict about oil changes. Before that though, it's performance was excellent. Makes sense. if the oil is only used in high performance or race engines, who cares if it breaks down quickly, if the trade off is superior protection during the normal maintenance window.

Also keep in mind how hot the Panigales run in traffic. That's not easy on oil. We don't need to waste $$$ on oil here by sticking to specific brand. But this is not a good spot to save money either. As long as you get proper decent oil, like the variety others have mentioned, you're good to go. But using very cheap auto oils, I don't recommend.

Thanks!

Bike is never in traffic, it is a track only bike. Some of my tracks get to 110 degrees though, so even when hustling the bike will ping 200 degrees.

I think I will stick to 10w40 and keep my change routine.
 
Back in the mid-90's I raced an FZR400. Ran Yamalube 20w40 exclusively. Then decided to switch to a Valvoline 10w40 and coincidentally spun a rod bearing on the first weekend of changing to a lighter oil. I run Motul 15w50 in my 899.
 

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