My 2022 Ducati Panigale V4S is Finally Ready for the Track

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don't want to be the the grouch but...

std gearing...too tall
std switch gear ...too expensive
headlight still in there.. too heavy too expensive..
 
Hey thanks...appreciate your words. I'm going to leave the headlights there for now...I just tape it for track days. At some point down the line, I may get race bodywork and remove the headlights then. Will have to ride the bike to determine whether I'm OK with the taller gearing, especially for the tracks I ride most often. What kind of change did you make for the sprockets and switch gear?
 
lots of chat around gearing some worth a read (keep away from sharp objects!)
with the std switch gear your bike loom comes right out to the switch so if you damage it you may fubar the loom. Aftermarket switch gear has a fly lead so it puts the std loom inboard..out of the way.

look at Bikesport developments or others for switches.
 
Asking a question here I have no idea. So track guys gimme some info please.

Could/would he be able to change say the front sprocket to adjust his gearing? The reason I say front is for ease of swap? Do you track guys keep front & rear sprockets to "adjust" gearing based o the track your on. And if it's a track day do you make those adjustments between sessions?

And yes I'm the guy with a V4R ordered who probably will never track it! And I do drink a Latte sometimes (solo rides only) LOL!!
 
andyb said:
don't want to be the the grouch but...

std gearing...too tall
std switch gear ...too expensive
headlight still in there.. too heavy too expensive..
Click to expand...

Agreed except for hearing due to track dependency. With stock gearing at COTA, I was in the limiter in 6th for like 300m at the end of the back straight. Changed to 16/40 - problem solved.
 
changing the front 1 tooth is about 3.2 teeth in the back...sometimes that is way too much of an adjustment.

you pick gearing based on your speed around the track..you wanna be able to top out(redline) just before you have to slam on the brakes and turn the bike. If you hit your brakes to turn and youve still got 4K RPM to red line then your leaving speed on the table.

Also, say there are a bunch of tight turns close together, you could adjust your gearing so your in 2nd or 3rd gear through all the turns....if you didnt make an adjustment you might have to drop to 1st gear...some guys dont like doing that..

you can make changes at the track, there are "quick change" carriers where you can swap out rear sprockets, but if you make a large change you need to fit another chain since you may not be able to set chain tension otherwise.

typically, you ride a track, learn the track, and then make gearing changes for your personal preference.

Racers already have all this figured out and know exactly what gear to run on which tracks...
 
craig bush said:
Agreed except for hearing due to track dependency. With stock gearing at COTA, I was in the limiter in 6th for like 300m at the end of the back straight. Changed to 16/40 - problem solved.
Click to expand...

pardon?
 
SirJAG said:
changing the front 1 tooth is about 3.2 teeth in the back...sometimes that is way too much of an adjustment.

you pick gearing based on your speed around the track..you wanna be able to top out(redline) just before you have to slam on the brakes and turn the bike. If you hit your brakes to turn and youve still got 4K RPM to red line then your leaving speed on the table.

Also, say there are a bunch of tight turns close together, you could adjust your gearing so your in 2nd or 3rd gear through all the turns....if you didnt make an adjustment you might have to drop to 1st gear...some guys dont like doing that..

you can make changes at the track, there are "quick change" carriers where you can swap out rear sprockets, but if you make a large change you need to fit another chain since you may not be able to set chain tension otherwise.

typically, you ride a track, learn the track, and then make gearing changes for your personal preference.

Racers already have all this figured out and know exactly what gear to run on which tracks...
Click to expand...

exactly quick change rear sprockets and carrier.....and go down to 520 whist you are at it..
 
speaking of a 520... i know lots of people who run them...but man...its so damn small...and my bike has so much damn torque (1299)...freaks me out haha!
 
SirJAG said:
speaking of a 520... i know lots of people who run them...but man...its so damn small...and my bike has so much damn torque (1299)...freaks me out haha!
Click to expand...

here's a test. Get a match and hold both ends and snap it in the middle. now with half its size try to do it again....525 versus 520.....simples
 
Plenty of people who dont race go 520 because they heard thats what racers do, and quote rotating mass facts and figures to support their spending spree. It does make a tiny difference but you absolutely don't need to do it, the bike has plenty of power and whatever minor gains are not going to make a difference to your riding experience. To really make 520 worth it you also need racing chain that doesnt have o-rings and an aluminium rear sprocket- both are relatively high wear items which doesnt matter to racers but is less practical on the street. Ducati could easily supply a 520 setup on the S but they don't for a reason.

I would also ignore the forum re gearing changes, ride the bike and see how you go. Its highly unlikely you will be hitting the limiter in 6th for any length of time and in my experience 1st will get you around any hairpin turn. The bike does have a gearbox and a huge rev range so you will be fine even if you may like to go up or down a tooth at a later date.
 
andyb said:
Agreed except for hearing due to track dependency. With stock gearing at COTA, I was in the limiter in 6th for like 300m at the end of the back straight. Changed to 16/40 - problem solved.
Click to expand...

Fat fingered my response and didn’t realize until the option to edit had expired. 🤦‍♂️

“Gearing” and “ON the limiter”
 
Paul G said:
Plenty of people who dont race go 520 because they heard thats what racers do, and quote rotating mass facts and figures to support their spending spree. It does make a tiny difference but you absolutely don't need to do it, the bike has plenty of power and whatever minor gains are not going to make a difference to your riding experience. To really make 520 worth it you also need racing chain that doesnt have o-rings and an aluminium rear sprocket- both are relatively high wear items which doesnt matter to racers but is less practical on the street. Ducati could easily supply a 520 setup on the S but they don't for a reason.

I would also ignore the forum re gearing changes, ride the bike and see how you go. Its highly unlikely you will be hitting the limiter in 6th for any length of time and in my experience 1st will get you around any hairpin turn. The bike does have a gearbox and a huge rev range so you will be fine even if you may like to go up or down a tooth at a later date.
Click to expand...

I’m inclined to agree except for the chain - you’ll pickup a few hp due to less rotational mass, even with an o-ring chain. Whether or not the extra power is meaningful to a given rider is obviously debatable.

And like you said - unless you’re racing or on the limiter because of track layout, gearing changes are more preference than necessity.
 
What real difference does it make for tge elite racers then and really Why change anything then …🙄
 

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