Need a lower triple tree

My first time actually using a torque wrench on the lower triple bolts and go figure I snap one. Probably tightened these a dozen time by hand with no issue, pretty pissed with my self. Went with 5ft lbs and in pattern and still snapped the middle one.

Anyone have one they can sell and overnight me or does a vendor have an aftermarket triple they can get me quickly?

Presumably you've tried a stud extractor to remove the stricken bolt?

RickD996 said:

Presumably you've tried a stud extractor to remove the stricken bolt?

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Yeah didn’t want to come out. I’m going to try to re-drill the hole and use my tap/die set and make a new thread.going to the track this weekend so gotta get this done either way by then

Was able to drill it out and re thread the hole with an m8-1.25 thread (stock is m6) The m8 bolt head was a little big so ground it down a little bit and it all fits.

Never using a torque wrench on these again.

I've read that you have to tighten in a specific sequence to ramp up the torque. Can't go full pull right from the get go

rac1ngsnak3 said:

I've read that you have to tighten in a specific sequence to ramp up the torque. Can't go full pull right from the get go

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I know and I did it in pattern. Any set of pinch bolts you have to ease in the torque in a pattern. Like I said I’ve done this at least a dozen times on this bike. Maybe the bolts are just worn out.

brad8266 said:

I know and I did it in pattern. Any set of pinch bolts you have to ease in the torque in a pattern. Like I said I’ve done this at least a dozen times on this bike. Maybe the bolts are just worn out.

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Good to know. Might be worth putting in stronger bolts next time I have the forks pulled

Something wasn’t right there. 5ft lb is 6.78nm. The case cover bolts are M6 as well with a recommended torque of 13nm that’s 9.59ft lb. Your snapped fastener at 5ft lb (6.78nm) was well within the yield strength (tension) for that fastener.

Either that fastener had become defective or your wrench calibration is off. You mentioned using the (hand method) prior. Is it possible you exceeded the spec at some point hand tightening the bolt?

A properly calibrated wrench is always a “good idea”. An undesirable situation with questionable circumstances does not warrant a blanket statement of “never use a torque wrench” in my opinion.

endodoc said:

Something wasn’t right there. 5ft lb is 6.78nm. The case cover bolts are M6 as well with a recommended torque of 13nm that’s 9.59ft lb. Your snapped fastener at 5ft lb (6.78nm) was well within the yield strength (tension) for that fastener.

Either that fastener had become defective or your wrench calibration is off. You mentioned using the (hand method) prior. Is it possible you exceeded the spec at some point hand tightening the bolt?

A properly calibrated wrench is always a “good idea”. An undesirable situation with questionable circumstances does not warrant a blanket statement of “never use a torque wrench” in my opinion.

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Those pinch bolts are supposed to be torqued to 8nm (5.9 ft-lbs). Wrench could be off perhaps but I use it for everything else and it has been accurate, however I don’t use a torque wrench for 5ft lbs very often. Nor did it snap the other bolts, I think this particular bolt just gave up.

There is no way I’ve over tightened it before while hand tightening it since when I do that it’s out of expediency and don’t have much angle on the Allen wrench to apply much power to it.

I didn’t say I would never again use a torque wrench, I use mine all the time. I said I won’t use one on these particular bolts again, which I won’t and never did until today.

Got it. Maybe replace all the bolts just to be on the safe side

I have found that occasionally I need to set the torque lower then increase it to make sure, the range on mine is 0-35nm. I trust my hand more than a TW at the low end on a bike

Endodoc = king of mansplaining

What torque wrench are you using to read that low?

rac1ngsnak3 said:

Endodoc = king of mansplaining

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Did you find what I wrote misleading or inaccurate? Or were you just generally offended?

bp_SFV4 said:

What torque wrench are you using to read that low?

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Quality and calibration of the tools is a valid point. I use Proto USA. Mil spec certified, digital readout, extremely accurate. The big one is for the rear wheel nuts and swing arm pivot. Small click stops are for sensitive materials. The little blue and black one goes down to .60nm

endodoc said:

Quality and calibration of the tools is a valid point. I use Proto USA. Mil spec certified, digital readout, extremely accurate. The big one is for the rear wheel nuts and swing arm pivot. Small click stops are for sensitive materials. The little blue and black one goes down to .60nm

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Mil spec… ‍[facepalm]

rac1ngsnak3 said:

Mil spec… ‍[facepalm]

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Yes, Proto is on the mil spec vendor list for calibrated measuring equipment. Dude I get it, your a hack, you don’t know a lot and you’re obviously ok with junk. Is what it is. Oh and what happened to the rant about ignoring people, I thought you blocked me?

I asked about the torque wrench because I only have a 1/2" drive electronic one that I use on wheel nuts, calibers, things like that. The best thing about is that I don't have to convert Nm into Ft-Lbs. I don't think it could read that low and I've never owned a 1/4" or 3/8" one. I have a screwdriver style torque wrench but it goes from 10 to 65 in-lbs and is meant for scope rings.

bp_SFV4 said:

I asked about the torque wrench because I only have a 1/2" drive electronic one that I use on wheel nuts, calibers, things like that. The best thing about is that I don't have to convert Nm into Ft-Lbs. I don't think it could read that low and I've never owned a 1/4" or 3/8" one. I have a screwdriver style torque wrench but it goes from 10 to 65 in-lbs and is meant for scope rings.

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Its probably overkill on a lot of things especially non critical parts and parts that you have a feel for. However on other things its absolutely necessary to get the proper load on the fastener. Examples would be main bearing cap bolts, rod bolts, highly stresses engine parts etc. On some applications the spec doesn't necessarily pertain to the fastener itself but what it goes into. A good example of that would be a soft material (magnesium cases) which will obviously deform much earlier that a steel Ti bolt. 13nm saves the mag.

Additionally some fasteners themselves are "stretch" sensitive and need proper torque for proper yield in relation to the part. I torque everything that has a spec. That's how I was taught (Aerospace) same with thread lubricants, thread lockers and safety wire. Overkill, sure in a lot of circumstances but being in the habit of doing the little things helps prevent developing bad habits of not doing little things and its not that much extra effort. Yep firearms, same thing. All the mfgs have torque specs for things (barrel nuts, gas blocks, scope mounts, rail accessories. Some stuff, no big deal other stuff, torque, stake, thread locker, anti-seize etc.

I don't think the snake was offended he just has no skills and would not know what to do with any tools.

endodoc said:

Did you find what I wrote misleading or inaccurate? Or were you just generally offended?

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endodoc said:

Did you find what I wrote misleading or inaccurate? Or were you just generally offended?

Click to expand...