Oil change

hello, im a 6 month ducati 1299s owner. yesterday i just hit 6,000km and i don't know if im asking a dumb question...but is time to change the oil?if so what oil do i need? how much oil? do i need to change the filter? what filter is best to use? and how to reset the oil signal? don't get me wrong but i used to change my oil in my Yamaha R1 every 2,000km. and to my "good luck" i live in Italy where everything cost much than other places. so i would like to do it myself, instead of taking it to Ducati to do it. some months about i let them put some little of oil on it and just that was 50 euro!!!....so im trying to learn how to do it by myself also is even a way to learn more about my bike. thank you

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ahhhh where to start.

yes you do need an oil change and filter.

there is a long thread on how to do this just use the search function/

Manual suggests every 12000kms, but I change my oil every 6k for road use or 3k for track bikes. It does make a difference, especially in how smooth gearshifting feels with new oil, which I like.

If you decide to change oil, get a 4L bottle, a replacement filter (which is not expensive), and oil drain bolt crush washer replacement.
I cannot remember how much oil exactly. Maybe 3.2L. But i normally use that as a starting point and check and recheck until it is just right.

Original oil in my bike was motul 300v 15-50w, but i prefer motul 710015-50w as it is a better value being cheaper, but I've used it before and it performs very well.

I find oil change a relaxing moment.


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So many choices in oil. I made the choice to put Motul 300v oil in mine and the K&N filter (KN-159). I have ran Repsol Racing 4T, Mobile1 4T, and many others in previous bikes, as long as it is motorcycle specific 4T oil, and I prefer full synthetic, I don't think you will hurt it much. I usually buy the 4L jugs, as they are generally cheaper, save around $5 in total. I have found the 4L jugs of 10W-40 for $49-52 locally, where the 1L bottles are closer to $14 each (of course USD). I am doing my first oil change tonight, and I have yet to look at the manual to find out the quantity to put in the bike, but most bikes are around 3-3.2 L with a filter, so having a 4L jug you will have enough, and still some left over.

I took the habit of doing an oil change every time I changed the rear tire. Oil is fairly "cheap" in terms of changes and longevity of a motor, and I would prefer to change more often then just what they recommend. I find that wet clutches are FAR better performing with clean oil, so changing every 3000 miles (5000 KM) is my general trend. That usually is when I change the rear tire on the bike, sometimes closer to 2000-2500 miles. Makes shifting buttery smooth.

I always change the filter when I change the oil, and I typically change the drain plug to a titanium plug with a magnet. That allows me to check for any metal shavings in the oil as well, just to make sure everything is going well.

From everything I read, you must go to your dealer to reset the oil indicator. It is a simple procedure for them.

1: If you so desire

2: 10w40 (15w50 if you're in a very hot climate - the ambient air temp chart can be found in your owner's manual that was included, free of charge, with the purchase of your Panigale) Motul 300v is the best oil that you can't go wrong with (don't bother reading up on the oil comparisons on these forums unless you need a degree in time wasting with a major in gauging out your eyes and a minor in useless information)

3: Buy a 4L jug and top off (let the oil settle through the filter/crankcase) until you're at the correct level... Typically between 3.2L and 3.7L (as per AntiHero's awesome write-up that can be found on this forum if you use the "search function" - mine used 3.4/5)

4: Use OEM replacement filter or the K&N filter (part# KN-159)

5: Take to dealer and tell them you need the light reset and that you changed the oil yourself (you're not doing a full "service" as per the owner's manual, but hey, neither do a lot of dealerships, and likely not one that charges 50 euro to top off your oil - I'd tell them to go .... themselves if they came to me with a bill for more than $2 for that, personally)

Good of you to be interested in learning how to do these things to your machinery yourself, and it is absolutely something that you can do yourself. Ensure to do this properly, as overfilling is not a good thing and engines typically do not like being run out of oil.


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I wrap the lower exhaust pipes with household aluminum foil before removing the filter.
Makes cleaning easier after the oil change.

guys thank you so much for taking the time to answer me. some of you told me to search for it here since is something old, but i couldn't it...sadly i was too worry about my oil and after writing this post I went there and for 6 deciliters I had to give them 30 euros ... oh and since I live in Rome they told me in case I change my oil, they won't turn off my signal since I got the bike in Milano...so yeah after reading everything you all said im ready to do my oil, the only think im missing is the oil drain bolt crush washer replacement but is ok I will see if I can get it. thank you again for everything.

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I have a question also. I'm going to do my own oil change on the R, I heard of people using 15w50 I live in Maryland, the motul 300V 10w40 is $52 4L, $61 15w50 4L... when people say very hot is that Weather of 90+ or very hot mean Arizona like 110. It can get 90-100 in Maryland but is the 10w50 more called for in my area. The shell 15w50 is in there now but the shop put that in as that's all they carry

Do yourself a favor and make an oil filter plug removal tool. The plug holes (actual plug/cap) are threaded. If you get yourself a couple of 4" bolts in M8x1.25 they thread into the cap holes and act as a puller for the cap. alternate the rotation of the bolts 180 degrees at a time and the cap will come out straight without damaging the case which has a precision machine finish.
so.

1 remove the two M6 bolts holding the filter cap on.
2 thread the two long M8 bolts into the filter cap holes. They will bottom on the side case.
3 rotate the M8 bolts 180 degrees alternating between L and R. Visually inspect that the cover is being extracted evenly as you are doing this.
4 there are two O rings on the plug. When you see the first one, the plug is close to popping out. Like others have said, cover what you need to.
5 use a pick tool to pull the old filter.
6 install the new filter (only goes in one way)
7 clean the cap and inspect the o rings
8 (dont screw this up) Position the cap back at the hole gently so that it is square to the hole. The cap has orientation so make sure it is on the right way. It will not install the wrong way. Use two slightly longer M6 bolts to reverse what you did in the removal sequence. Rotate the bolts in an alternating fashion to evenly pull the plug back into the hole. Remove the bolts and replace with the factory M6 bolts. Torque to spec.
This is a complete pain in the .... The fit of the plug to the filter chamber is tight and precise. i have seen more that a few butchered cases from guys not understanding the dynamics of the design. You dont want to scratch the case and you will if that plug gets out of shape.