Panigale 1199 Scratch Build

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Hello, I've decided to post pictures of my progress of my 1199 scratch build. Why build from scratch? Well along time ago when I was a teenager I knew a guy who built motorcycles from scratch and I've always found it fascinating. Also I've torn down a few bikes and rebuilt them in the past and I've always found it fun to do. Before I joined the military I was a service tech at Yamaha/Suzuki/Ducati dealership so working on motorcycles has always been my passion. I've been stationed in Japan now for 2 years and my biggest mistake was not bringing my 2013 Panigale 1199S with me (its sitting in storage). About a year ago I decided to undertake this project as a way to get back on 2 wheels. I'm also posting this thread as a way to hopefully get quick answers for some of the issues I run into, or if anyone wants to send free parts my way! One of the biggest issues I run into is finding hardware (nuts/bolts/washers) that I need. Unfortunately when I pick up used parts they don't come with all the hardware and I usually end up ordering from Ducati Omaha the hardware I need. I am close to having a rolling chassis. Some parts are US spec and some are Japanese spec so that the bike can pass JCI (Japanese Inspection). Here is the progress of the engine/frame/swing arm mounting.
 

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Hello, I've decided to post pictures of my progress of my 1199 scratch build. Why build from scratch? Well along time ago when I was a teenager I knew a guy who built motorcycles from scratch and I've always found it fascinating. Also I've torn down a few bikes and rebuilt them in the past and I've always found it fun to do. Before I joined the military I was a service tech at Yamaha/Suzuki/Ducati dealership so working on motorcycles has always been my passion. I've been stationed in Japan now for 2 years and my biggest mistake was not bringing my 2013 Panigale 1199S with me (its sitting in storage). About a year ago I decided to undertake this project as a way to get back on 2 wheels. I'm also posting this thread as a way to hopefully get quick answers for some of the issues I run into, or if anyone wants to send free parts my way! One of the biggest issues I run into is finding hardware (nuts/bolts/washers) that I need. Unfortunately when I pick up used parts they don't come with all the hardware and I usually end up ordering from Ducati Omaha the hardware I need. I am close to having a rolling chassis. Some parts are US spec and some are Japanese spec so that the bike can pass JCI (Japanese Inspection). Here is the progress of the engine/frame/swing arm mounting.
Looks like your having fun. Good luck with the build. I know how much work is involved in this, so you've got your work cut out!
 
IMG_4793.jpgIMG_4794.jpgIMG_4805.jpg

I also designed, and 3D printed a cap for the gps hole. Skip need in carbon fiber.


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Simon I can't make it out in your picture, but there's a rubber molding that goes between the fan and radiator to seal the space between them. Doesn't look like you have it there.
 
Yes the silicone molding is in there.
aa506e35453a0c6adcf9497d02f0a664.jpg



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does anyone know the difference between the .5 and the .02 speed sensor gasket? I'm building non abs and not sure what version I need. Also having a hard time locating a front muffler hangar.
 
IMG_4859.jpg IMG_4860.jpg
Tentatively installed the cooling system. I'm having issues with both deflectors. They re catching the grooves in the lower triple tree when turning the forks left and right. Any ideas? Still need help with the speed sensors too.


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Tentatively installed the cooling system. I'm having issues with both deflectors. They re catching the grooves in the lower triple tree when turning the forks left and right. Any ideas?
The deflectors work in conjunction with the plastic lower panel that attaches to the lower triple. If you don't plan on installing the panel to the lower triple, you should be able to disassemble the spring loaded mechanism to remove the deflectors from the rad support.

I completed a scratch build last year--take your time and enjoy the experience!
 
does anyone know the difference between the .5 and the .02 speed sensor gasket?
Are you referring to thickness of the shims? The shims will dial-in the spacing of the sensor to the abs ring--the service manual will have the specs.
 
The deflectors work in conjunction with the plastic lower panel that attaches to the lower triple. If you don't plan on installing the panel to the lower triple, you should be able to disassemble the spring loaded mechanism to remove the deflectors from the rad support.



I completed a scratch build last year--take your time and enjoy the experience!



Thanks, I have that plastic lower. I will install it and that should fix it.


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Installed the plastic lower and that fixed it. Also installed the exhaust. Japanese spec exhaust isn't pretty.IMG_4903.jpgIMG_4904.jpgIMG_4905.jpg


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After filling with coolant I got a leak coming from the thermostat housing where the thermostat flange bolts together, and where the hoses connect. I am pretty sure I had these very tight but still a leak. I've pulled it off and plan on re-tightening, adding RTV, and swapping the oem clamps for adjustable ones (which will be hard due to the tight space). And ideas or tips?


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After filling with coolant I got a leak coming from the thermostat housing where the thermostat flange bolts together, and where the hoses connect. I am pretty sure I had these very tight but still a leak. I've pulled it off and plan on re-tightening, adding RTV, and swapping the oem clamps for adjustable ones (which will be hard due to the tight space). And ideas or tips?


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I wouldn't recommend using RTV. It's not really an ideal permanent fix. If your thermostat housing is leaking from between it's two halves, then you will have to replace it in it's entireity. If it's leaking from between the housing and the cylinder head, then you will need a new O-ring. The torque figure for the three retention bolts is only 5Nm, so don't over-tighten them as you can easily distort the plastic and you will never get a good seal. Just smear the O ring with a little silicone lubricant before bolting it it into position. Also if you replace the crappy 'Norma' clamps with conventional jubilee clips, make sure you buy ones with rolled edges and a smooth internal band so they don't cut into the rubber hoses and finally do not over-tighten them (2.5Nm max) as you will distort the plastic tubes of the the thermostat housing. Better to have to nip them up if you get a slight weep post re-assembly, than discover you have damaged the housing by being too heavy handed.
 

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