Race Tech Gold Valves - Marzocchi Forks

Ducati Forum

Help Support Ducati Forum:

Joined
Nov 6, 2013
Messages
63
Location
Trenton, ON
Anybody try race tech gold valves in their Marzocchi forks? I decided to give it a go. RT doesn't list them on their site yet but they are for sale. You will receive an access code to their online valve search (DVS) for the shim stack configuration, included with the valves. Apparently, since the development is so new there is no data on the valve search function and you have to speak to their R&D directly for your shim solution. I wish I had known that before the purchase. I've had the valves for two weeks now and I have been unable to contact R&D. I think my next call to Race Tech will be to arrange returning the product due to lack of tech support. I would hope they would pay for shipping and not charge me a restocking fee under the circumstances.
I just thought anyone considering this project should know.
 
Received my shim solution on Feb 24th. Can't wait to get started rebuilding my forks! Will probably post a "how to" when I'm done.
 
Glad to see someone went this direction. I Have used their products in the past for both dirt and street and always been very very happy with the results. I am 230lbs and not easy, or cheap to dial in your suspension at that weight.

Look forward to the "how-to" hopefully soon.
 
Got my forks apart this week and discovered the cartridges are not like the ones in the manual on the Marzocchi website, as I hoped. There are no flats on the cartridge where you can hold it in a vice or get a wrench on it. I really wanted to do this myself but alas, I conceded and took the forks to a suspension guru. Sorry. No how-to on this one.
 
Would still be interested in an evaluation once you get 'em back. I've used Race Tech in the past with good results. And while I think the Marzocchis on the base are good, like everything else there's always room for improvement.
 
First, I like Race-Tech stuff, have used it for years, and just put a Race-Tech kit in an 1199 Sachs rear shock to use on my 899 track bike. That being said, I'd be hesitant as a consumer to revalve the stock 1199 Marzocchi forks with a race-tech (or any) kit vs. just putting in a drop-in cartridge. As noted above, there are some complications with these pressurized Marzocchi cartridges that make them more difficult to work on than a traditional Showa cartridge that many of us have worked on in the past. Also, the drop-in cartridges can be removed and transferred to another set of forks or sold down the road, so when you factor in the recovery cost of those vs. a gold valve kit/springs and labor, it's actually a lower overall cost of ownership to go with the drop-ins. And the drop-ins are much easier for a consumer to install themselves if they're comfortable taking forks apart. The Ohlins NIX30 drop-ins work really well on the base 1199, I ran them for two years and was very happy with it.
 
Great advice JarelJ and I will proceed with caution. Since I now own the gold valves and have already sent the forks away, I'm going to continue on this path. If it doesnt work out I'll get cartridges. Hopefully the Marzocchi can be developed.
 
Got my forks back today and will install them over the weekend. I won't be riding for a while yet as the snow is still melting and sand and salt are all over the roads.
After speaking with my suspension guru, he feels that the Marzzochi internals are quality components and that a Race Tech piston probably wasn't necessary - just revalve the MZ piston. Anyway, the RTs are in and we will see how it goes.

jyli19 Thanks for the cartridge offer - I'll keep it in mind.
 
Got my forks back today and will install them over the weekend. I won't be riding for a while yet as the snow is still melting and sand and salt are all over the roads.
After speaking with my suspension guru, he feels that the Marzzochi internals are quality components and that a Race Tech piston probably wasn't necessary - just revalve the MZ piston. Anyway, the RTs are in and we will see how it goes.


Sorry for not giving a review sooner - I've been busy riding and enjoying life.
I am about 195lbs with gear. Front sag is 38 mm with 6-7 turns in with the factory spring. Comp and reb are 3 clicks out. Forks are at the factory height in the triples. I also installed a Bitubo XXF61 shock and kept the factory settings. Rear sag is 25mm. Note this shock is about 6mm shorter than the Sachs.
My susp guru set the fork comp and rebound adjusters to about 3 clicks out in order to balance the suspension front and rear. Even with the adjusters turned in considerably, the fork still bottomed out at the track and to lesser degree on the street.
The guru said this might happen due to a "comfort shim" in the stack. The way I understand it, the comfort shim is the first shim against the piston, followed by a clamping shim. It allows for a plusher ride by allowing comfort shim deflections without deflecting the whole shim stack. The down side is for EG. On a long relatively easy braking where only the comfort shim deflects the fork could be through considerable travel, then you hit a large bump and it bottoms out.
I had the Pani at the track yesterday and the fork bottomed out on almost every session. I experimented with more compression damping but it didn't fix the problem. My last session I lost the front end and crashed while trail braking into a slow hairpin. I'm not saying that was the cause of my crash but the zip tie on my fork showed that it had bottomed out again.
Except for the bottoming issue, I thought the bike handled well, and it went where I pointed it. I was about 4 seconds off the pace of my usual track bike, an 08 gixxer 1000 - not bad for first time on the track with the Pani.
The damage on the Pani is mostly cosmetic and is amazingly minimal. I need a clutch cover, brake lever, rear brake pedal and bar end. The lower fairing got a tiny bit of rash on the lower ridge where it surrounds the clutch cover but I'm already getting a new one under warranty because it was melting on the exhaust.
My plan is to have my forks revalved this winter using the stock Marzzochi pistons and NO comfort shim.
Just a quick note on the Bitubo shock. You'd think with 25mm sag that the shock would be unbearably stiff but I found it to be suprisingly plush. I'm using almost all the available travel with no bottom out. Hope this helps.
 
I'm with you, track and comfort don't go together. If you want to go fast on a track get those comfort shims outta there.
Also having your rebound only 3 clicks out worries me. Makes me wonder if your forks are packing up under hard braking. Plus, how adjustable is your suspension if you think you need more damping than it was initially set up with? Balance your bike's suspension AND leave room for adjustability is what I recommend.

Front suspension typically bottoms out because of one of two reasons. 1: the spring just isn't stiff enough to handle the braking loads. If that's the case either brake earlier and lighter or replace the springs with something stiffer. FWIW, stock springs are rarely stiff enough for fast paced track use. 2: the springs are the right stiffness for you, the bike, and your pace but you are too stabby when you initially grab the brakes, bottoming out your suspension the instant you grab the brakes. Seeing your zip tie at the bottom might make you think your springs are too soft only to learn that with the next step stiffer springs the suspension doesn't move properly at full lean and you crash. :-(

I learned all this the hard way.
I was wondering why I crashed mid-corner. Turns out the problem started the week before when I had ...... brake technique and put in stiffer spring to keep from bottoming out. That's why I crashed mid-corner. (try connecting those dots on your own) "So to keep from crashing mid-corner don't stab the brakes at your brake marker", was the lesson there.

I put a gopro on my bike aimed at the left fork. That's how you can verify that during braking you are in the middle of the lower third of the fork travel. Mid corner you should be in the middle of the middle third. Exit should be the middle of the upper third. WFO is topped out hanging the front wheel in the air. :)

Hope this helps.
 
Back
Top