Rapid bike install

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Jan 16, 2015
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does any one know how to disconnect the round metal injector cable nut in the first step of the install of the rapid bike. the space is very tight, not sure how its done. I have tried with my hand and with nose pliers but it won't budge.
 

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Throw a channel lock on it and twist. It's tight.

Ill second this one -- but I would suggest adding a towel or something to prevent marring. It is a tight fit and channel locks are what I used to remove it from my bike...with the towel of course. Just make sure you feel it lock into place when you tighten it back up -- loose connectors will give you all kinds of headaches.

Good luck with the install -- and if you have any issues, Yaman is always quick to reply to emails and it seems like anytime I have called him, he always makes time to answer questions.
 
They actually make the "correct" tool. Its for circular connectors (Amphenol,Bendix etc)
 

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Enough folks have done this mod to give me confidence that it's worth the effort.

After 15 months w/ my 1299s in stock form, I'm about to join the Termi slip on / RB Race module club. I put the sprint 08 filter in last summer so that's one step I can avoid.

I'll be doing the slip ons and the module at the same time. Any benefit to installing either the exhaust or the RB module first?
 
Enough folks have done this mod to give me confidence that it's worth the effort.

After 15 months w/ my 1299s in stock form, I'm about to join the Termi slip on / RB Race module club. I put the sprint 08 filter in last summer so that's one step I can avoid.

I'll be doing the slip ons and the module at the same time. Any benefit to installing either the exhaust or the RB module first?


at the same time.

RB module doesn't care.
 
I too used a towel over those lockable/adjustable pliers (sorry I can't think of the proper name for them at the moment!)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
They actually make the "correct" tool. Its for circular connectors (Amphenol,Bendix etc)

Not the exact kind in the pic posted by endodoc, but these should do the trick (amazon link below). Should help this job but also seem generically useful for other similar applications. Price is reasonable too.


SJPliers.JPG


https://amzn.com/B00170RES8
 
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RB is in, Termi slipons are "slipped on".

50 miles yesterday, 50 miles today. Another 100 or so and I should be in like Flynn.

Smoother throttle. Still a little choppy (on / off) when decelling thru ~3k to 3.5k RPM, but hopefully RB will cure that after a few more rides.

How many miles before most folks have their's perfect?
 
Its never going to be perfect. For most, better. It would be great if the bike just shipped with a decent "un locked" ECU out of the box but that didn't happen. The entire electronic system on these bikes do ensure one thing, your going to need to go to the dealer to fix anything and the ambiguity of their fault code system is dog poop. The dash should just have one warning light. "broken, go directly to your dealer with your wallet out". They actually ding guys to reset oil change lights.
 
Its never going to be perfect. For most, better. It would be great if the bike just shipped with a decent "un locked" ECU out of the box but that didn't happen. The entire electronic system on these bikes do ensure one thing, your going to need to go to the dealer to fix anything and the ambiguity of their fault code system is dog poop. The dash should just have one warning light. "broken, go directly to your dealer with your wallet out". They actually ding guys to reset oil change lights.
I loved Aprilia's RSVR "cut an ecu wire" and the race map was enabled! That was cheap and easy!
 

I was told that the RB begins tuning after 4000 rpm.

Ahh...thanks.

Based on this post it looks like nothing gets adjusted below 3500 RPM.

http://ducati1299.com/mechanical-te...ke-master-pro-software-info-3.html#post214340

So far the fueling is great up past 4k, but there is a chop right around 3k rpm (sometimes if I roll off slowly) that looks like I may have to live with. Id love to get it down to 2500, but I'm not gonna screw with it.

Update: Went for a ride tonight, getting better everytime.

Finally hooked up the s/w to see what's going on. Looks like it's making fuel mods all the way down to 2100 RPM, but no ignition mods below 3000 RPM.

RBFuel.PNG
 
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If you have pliers that'll work and you're just worried about marring or gouging, just shrink some heat shrink tubing around the jaws. Instant soft jaws. Cheap, quick, doesn't slip off, holds up surprisingly well, and just cut it off when you're done. Double up as necessary if you really need to put some ... into it.

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