Rear axle bolt fastener-thingy

JDBeretta · May 31, 2015

Hi guys, I was washing my bike this afternoon after a ride, and noticed that the back off clip on the rear axle isn't fully seated in the channel.

Any thoughts on this? I tried using a pair of pliers and a tool to put it back in, but that didn't work... Also, I'm not sure how that 90 degree piece would "hang" on flat surface outside of the loop that it's in right now.

Comments?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1433118738.477893.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1433118748.592228.jpg

Charliem90 · May 31, 2015

Hard to tell from pics but doesn't appear that the center pin is all the way down in the axle pin hole.

As far as clip tightness in the channel, I safety wire the clip on the left side bend to the center pin and take up tension on the clip so it's in the channel all the way around the nut (hope I'm describing it well enough for you).

JDBeretta · May 31, 2015

Thanks guys, I'm out playing with it now. I have it off and I'm trying to make it fit better... As long as I can be sure that the pin stays deep, should be good. I'll get the dealer to replace when I go in for my 1st service. Er. I mean oil change and light reset.

Macattack · May 31, 2015

mine was like that too from the factory

I had to pry the pin out of the bind it was in . it was like it had been torqued out of its hole and caught in the teeth from the factory . once it is out and off you can re- install it and find one of the holes to align it in ..
it may require it to be re-shaped a little bit.

I plan on safety wiring mine as they look like they could come off really easy .

bradp51 · May 31, 2015

JDBeretta said:
Hi guys, I was washing my bike this afternoon after a ride, and noticed that the back off clip on the rear axle isn't fully seated in the channel.

Any thoughts on this? I tried using a pair of pliers and a tool to put it back in, but that didn't work... Also, I'm not sure how that 90 degree piece would "hang" on flat surface outside of the loop that it's in right now.

Comments?

View attachment 13859 View attachment 13860

Thats not right. You need to make sure the vertical part of the pin is protruding into the hole of the axle itself not just the nut. Unlikely the nut will come off though with the torque setting they put these on at. They can be troublesome to get off. Just understand though if that nut spins off so does your wheel. That nut is the only thing holding it on.

JDBeretta · May 31, 2015

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1433124121.501062.jpg

This is the best I could get it...

ScrapperX · May 31, 2015

Theyre not designed to go all the way into the axle tube. They are designed to just catch the tube itself so you can slide axle sliders or pit bull stands in there.

bradp51 · Jun 1, 2015

ScrapperX said:
Theyre not designed to go all the way into the axle tube. They are designed to just catch the tube itself so you can slide axle sliders or pit bull stands in there.

100% Scrapper. It looked to me though from the photo that the OP did not have any of the pin into the axle. May have been wrong.

bradp51 · Jun 1, 2015

JDBeretta said:
View attachment 13863

This is the best I could get it...

It looks as though your holes are not lined up and it is bending the vertical part of the spring.

When it is fitted correctly there should be no stress on it. The pin should not protrude so you can slide a race stand in there. (as scrapper x pointed out)

If you line the nut hole up with the one of the holes in the axle neatly it should look straight and not bent.

I did this only a week ago after taking the rear wheel off. BTW I only tighten to 200nm and not the 280nm recommended. I am pretty sure others on here use the same torque spec for this nut.

Gecko · Jun 1, 2015

bradp51 said:
It looks as though your holes are not lined up and it is bending the vertical part of the spring.

When it is fitted correctly there should be no stress on it. The pin should not protrude so you can slide a race stand in there. (as scrapper x pointed out)

If you line the nut hole up with the one of the holes in the axle neatly it should look straight and not bent.

I did this only a week ago after taking the rear wheel off. BTW I only tighten to 200nm and not the 280nm recommended. I am pretty sure others on here use the same torque spec for this nut.

aaaahhhmmm, Ducati says 230Nm. 280Nm is way to much.
I do it this way:
1. Thighten to approx 210Nm
2. Loose the nut a bit
3. Re-tighten with 205Nm. then check for proper alignment of one of the four pin-holes to the nut. If no hole fits, thighten the nut a bit more.

Steps 1. and 2. are required to get all grease properly settled. Make sure that only a very thin grease film is on the axle and conus. To much grease is very bad!

I do it this way for all Ducatis and MVs. Never had any problems or complains from master techs. Attention: MVs are CCW, Ducatis CW!!

BTW a lot of ducati techs secure this "rear axle bolt fastener-thingy" with a small zip-tie. works perfect.

JDBeretta · Jun 1, 2015

ScrapperX said:
Theyre not designed to go all the way into the axle tube. They are designed to just catch the tube itself so you can slide axle sliders or pit bull stands in there.

I just put it like that because the piece itself has become oblong and looks like it wants to jump out...

JDBeretta · Jun 1, 2015

bradp51 said:
It looks as though your holes are not lined up and it is bending the vertical part of the spring.

When it is fitted correctly there should be no stress on it. The pin should not protrude so you can slide a race stand in there. (as scrapper x pointed out)

If you line the nut hole up with the one of the holes in the axle neatly it should look straight and not bent.

I did this only a week ago after taking the rear wheel off. BTW I only tighten to 200nm and not the 280nm recommended. I am pretty sure others on here use the same torque spec for this nut.

This nut is easiest to buy at...?

JDBeretta · Jun 1, 2015

Actually, I just need the measurement, if anyone has it handy. I'm at work (yay) and don't have my digital caliper or my bike here. 46 or 41? Or something different.

PS. Sorry for sounding like a complete noob with my terminology. I am not new to mechanical work, just new to Duc.

Zelnik · Jun 1, 2015

Hmm.. Now you make me neurotic. Why not grease it up,you dont get the correct nm? Also i read on the torquewrench & manual, to >never< go back a bit and re-tighten..

Gecko said:
aaaahhhmmm, Ducati says 230Nm. 280Nm is way to much.
I do it this way:
1. Thighten to approx 210Nm
2. Loose the nut a bit
3. Re-tighten with 205Nm. then check for proper alignment of one of the four pin-holes to the nut. If no hole fits, thighten the nut a bit more.

Steps 1. and 2. are required to get all grease properly settled. Make sure that only a very thin grease film is on the axle and conus. To much grease is very bad!

I do it this way for all Ducatis and MVs. Never had any problems or complains from master techs. Attention: MVs are CCW, Ducatis CW!!

BTW a lot of ducati techs secure this "rear axle bolt fastener-thingy" with a small zip-tie. works perfect.

Gecko · Jun 1, 2015

Zelnik said:
Hmm.. Now you make me neurotic. Why not grease it up,you dont get the correct nm? Also i read on the torquewrench & manual, to >never< go back a bit and re-tighten..

There are actually multiple different "philosophies" how to tighten the nut.
You'll get the correct torque anyway. IMHO it doesn't matter whether it's torqued with 200Nm or 230Nm. But if you really torque it with 230Nm and wait a year, it's a real PITA to open the nut again without making ugly marks into the nut.

About re-tightening: The point is to give the wheel a chance to re-align after the first tightening after balancing the grease film. When I had to change wheels on military jet fighters, I was even obliged to do this three times with increasing torque.

bradp51 · Jun 2, 2015

JDBeretta said:
I just put it like that because the piece itself has become oblong and looks like it wants to jump out...

Sorry looks like I typed in the wrong torque figure. Note Geckos post. I personally think 230nm is a little too much. A bitch to get off. Lots of posts about that.

Thanks for keeping me honest Gecko. cheers

DoubleD · Jun 8, 2015

Gecko said:
aaaahhhmmm, Ducati says 230Nm. 280Nm is way to much.
I do it this way:
1. Thighten to approx 210Nm
2. Loose the nut a bit
3. Re-tighten with 205Nm. then check for proper alignment of one of the four pin-holes to the nut. If no hole fits, thighten the nut a bit more.

Steps 1. and 2. are required to get all grease properly settled. Make sure that only a very thin grease film is on the axle and conus. To much grease is very bad!

I do it this way for all Ducatis and MVs. Never had any problems or complains from master techs. Attention: MVs are CCW, Ducatis CW!!

BTW a lot of ducati techs secure this "rear axle bolt fastener-thingy" with a small zip-tie. works perfect.

Thanks Gecko,

this is great info. Sorry to be so clueless, but how would you attach the zip-tie to hold the "rear axle bolt fastener-thingy" in place?

Gecko · Jun 8, 2015

DoubleD said:
Thanks Gecko,

this is great info. Sorry to be so clueless, but how would you attach the zip-tie to hold the "rear axle bolt fastener-thingy" in place?

Like that...

bradp51 · Jun 8, 2015

Gecko said:
Like that...

You need to find a red zip tie.

Rear axle bolt fastener-thingy

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