Rear wheel nut

Guys please help, I wish to remove my rear wheel, is the nut a normal clockwise thread or is it anti clockwise?
what is the torque for it and what is the the torque for the break disk bolts?

appreciate the help

greg

Nut is normal clockwise threaded, 55 mm socket needed for opening and tightening torque is 230 Nm. You does not need to touch break caliper or disc to remove rear wheel...

Thank you

If you’ve never taken it off before, that .... is torqued to like 600nm from factory


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you can use an impact driver or do as I did first time which is 3/4 drive 55 socket, powerbar plus extension (hydraulic pipe) sit friend on bike with brakes on and then stand on the bar! Make sure you mark the hub and nut with an engineers paint stick so you can re-torque it up to the same point. Not 100% accurate but pretty close.

Paul G said:

you can use an impact driver or do as I did first time which is 3/4 drive 55 socket, powerbar plus extension (hydraulic pipe) sit friend on bike with brakes on and then stand on the bar! Make sure you mark the hub and nut with an engineers paint stick so you can re-torque it up to the same point. Not 100% accurate but pretty close.

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I don’t think you wanna re torque it to that same torque, that’s way over 230nm


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I have re torqued it to 200nm and installed safety clip with zip tie...I could not get a t/wrench that goes higher
trust that is sufficient?

Captain Greg said:

I have re torqued it to 200nm and installed safety clip with zip tie...I could not get a t/wrench that goes higher
trust that is sufficient?

Click to expand...

I think so. Next ride just check it. I had one come off before when I was in Angeles crest, brother pointed it out so I just kept kicking the sprocket on with the back of my boot until I got back home 25 ish miles away. Wheel side would have been a completely different story...


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Next time you have it off stick a bit of Anti-Seize onto the thread, makes it so much easier to work with.

Captain Greg said:

I have re torqued it to 200nm and installed safety clip with zip tie...I could not get a t/wrench that goes higher
trust that is sufficient?

Click to expand...

As a note to all... fasteners deemed safety-critical should always be torqued to the proper value, no more, no less. Additionally, the threads should always be cleaned, and the prescribed lubricant (oil, grease, etc.), if any, should be applied prior to assembly. The cost of a few torque wrenches pales in comparison to what we otherwise spend on our bikes. A set of three torque wrenches will cover almost every operation in which safety critical fasteners are involved (engine internal/external, chassis, etc.). Don't be mislead by what you may have seen in some shops. If you go into a shop and the "highly-qualified, super-experienced, certified, expert master mechanic" is using his calibrated forearm to tighten safety-critical fasteners on a vehicle, turn around and leave. If the same mechanic followed the same practices at a government facility (for instance), he would find himself... well, he would find himself working at a service center.