Removing air from clutch Master Cylinder...pics?

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luke

luke

Joined
Aug 17, 2012
Messages
152
Location
Newport Beach, CA
So my clutch lever is way too close to the handlebar when it engages/disengages the clutch. I've read that all you do is put a rag over the [bleed nipple---I assume this is to catch spraying fluid?], then pull in the lever, open the nipple a tiny bit to let the bubble escape, followed by a re-tightening of it all.

Problem is, I'm mentally defective and don't know which part this refers to. Yes, I'm that bad with my hands. Is this lovely part near the clutch lever, or is it near the clutch? Anyone have a picture or video link?

Thanks!
 
Who gave you this advice? Holy crap...rag over the bleed? Its not a vagina man!

If you want to change the friction point, the spot at which the clutch engages in its arc, there is a large screw on the outside of the lever which you can move with your fingers. Push the lever slightly forward, then turn it. The lever will physically move closer or farther from the grip depending on how you adjust it.

If you have air in the lines, I leave it to you as Google brake or clutch bleeding. A rag isn't the way...
 
bp7178 said:
Who gave you this advice? Holy crap...rag over the bleed? Its not a vagina man!If you want to change the friction point, the spot at which the clutch engages in its arc, there is a large screw on the outside of the lever which you can move with your fingers. Push the lever slightly forward, then turn it. The lever will physically move closer or farther from the grip depending on how you adjust it.

If you have air in the lines, I leave it to you as Google brake or clutch bleeding. A rag isn't the way...
Click to expand...

:D
 
IF you want to check for air that may have risen to the bleed nipple:

- remove rubber nipple cover
- loosen bleed nipple 1 turn
- apply slightest pressure to lever and see if fluid weeps a tiny drop
- if no fluid shows, open nipple a further 1/2 turn
- close nipple and done

This worked perfectly well for me.
 
Xbox is absolutely right. My racebike loses it's "clutch feel" after a few weeks of sitting. Unless you have opened the system for repair, there is no reason to totally bleed the system for this inherent problem our bikes have. Crack the bleeder a 1/4 or half turn, wrap a rag around the area for safety sake, and slooooowly squeeze lever until fluid comes to the top of the inside of the bleeder. While holding the lever, tighten bleeder. If someone tells you that you need to use a hose on the bleeder, ask them how they get the fluid out of the hose where it connects to bleeder after they are done. When I do it my way, I don't have a single drip. I have yey to figure out how to get the hose empty before I remove it when done the other way :)
 
mrbrettbaker said:
Xbox is absolutely right. My racebike loses it's "clutch feel" after a few weeks of sitting. Unless you have opened the system for repair, there is no reason to totally bleed the system for this inherent problem our bikes have. Crack the bleeder a 1/4 or half turn, wrap a rag around the area for safety sake, and slooooowly squeeze lever until fluid comes to the top of the inside of the bleeder. While holding the lever, tighten bleeder. If someone tells you that you need to use a hose on the bleeder, ask them how they get the fluid out of the hose where it connects to bleeder after they are done. When I do it my way, I don't have a single drip. I have yey to figure out how to get the hose empty before I remove it when done the other way :)
Click to expand...

I won't take credit for this very simple and effective method, which I actually believe you originally posted May 2014 :)

Thanks again!!
 
It really sucks that this happens, but it is so easy to deal with, I've never made the effort to look into the cause. I can only assume it has to do with the angle the MC mounts? It has become ritual when I onload the bike at the track to bleed it a bit.
 
I bleed my MC twice daily at the track to maintain firm, positive pull (and not miss shifts coming into a corner, which really sucks). Takes 2"...makes a world of difference getting tiny air bubble out-
 
mrbrettbaker said:
Xbox is absolutely right. My racebike loses it's "clutch feel" after a few weeks of sitting. Unless you have opened the system for repair, there is no reason to totally bleed the system for this inherent problem our bikes have. Crack the bleeder a 1/4 or half turn, wrap a rag around the area for safety sake, and slooooowly squeeze lever until fluid comes to the top of the inside of the bleeder. While holding the lever, tighten bleeder. If someone tells you that you need to use a hose on the bleeder, ask them how they get the fluid out of the hose where it connects to bleeder after they are done. When I do it my way, I don't have a single drip. I have yey to figure out how to get the hose empty before I remove it when done the other way :)
Click to expand...

I put a hose over the nipple and put the hose's other end in a bottle on the floor. After I am done I take the hose carefully off the nipple and suction pulls the brake fluid in the hose safely down into the bottle (its like sucking fuel through a hose from your tank - gravity feed). I have yet to spill a drop when I disconnect the hose.

I had to do it yesterday as the Dragon Lady's clutch was suddenly non operational for the first time in three years. I changed the brake fluid at the same time as it was probably time to do so. :cool:
 
Don't forget to cover the dash.

I use a hose, into a 5g bucket, tiny little hole in the lid for the hose, and another to vent. Same bucket I use for truck brakes. Little bottles tip over or let the hose snap out splattering fluid all over brand new paint. I wrap the hose with a rag when I rip it off.

Using a rag alone is fine in the field.
 
mrbrettbaker said:
Zaster, was the new master different? I've love to know why these keep doing this
Click to expand...

Exactly, Master Zaster: please tell us more about your master disaster. The adjustment intervals are now much vaster?

I'm such a ....... ;-)
 
luke said:
Exactly, Master Zaster: please tell us more about your master disaster. The adjustment intervals are now much vaster?

I'm such a ....... ;-)
Click to expand...

Love it :D

Not sure what the dealership replaced it with but I'm told getting an aftermarket master is the only lasting solution.
 
Xbox said:
IF you want to check for air that may have risen to the bleed nipple:

- remove rubber nipple cover
- loosen bleed nipple 1 turn
- apply slightest pressure to lever and see if fluid weeps a tiny drop
- if no fluid shows, open nipple a further 1/2 turn
- close nipple and done

This worked perfectly well for me.
Click to expand...

Awesome tutorial. Ive been wanting to do a full bleed on my clutch since after an hour or once the bike is really warmed up the clutch can barely disengage. Even with the lever pulled all the way in its hard to down shift and IMPOSSIBLE to get to neutral. Once I found this method out, I tried it and worked!

1/4 turn to loosen the bleed nut and then pulled the lever in until I could see a bit of fluid reach the very end of the hole. Kept pressure on the lever and tightened the nut back and released. Now the clutch disengages where it should be, with out having to pull the lever all the way in.

So many thanks again, this has saved me a trip to the shop.:D
 
Well, the new OEM master didn't fix the problem.
There is an unofficial fix CR112(TSB-15-001) that did the job though.
Since it is not advertised by DNA you need to ask your dealer.
 

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