Replace rear shock absorber

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jyli19

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Jul 17, 2012
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Takes less than 15 minutes.

The key is to upload the weight off the suspension enough to allow the rear wheel hang just a hair line off the ground.

1. Put the bike on the front stand, placed a piece of plywood under the exhaust canister and jack up the bike using a floor jack. (2 mins or less)

2. Remove plastic covering the front end of the shock, loose both 8mm bolts. an extended length (1.5") 8mm hex socket would be ideal. Lift up the rear wheel slightly and wiggle the bolt loose in necessary. (3 mins)

3. Grease the joints and bolts before placing the new shock in. Hang tight both front and rear bolts evenly, then torque it to 45nm. (3 mins)

4. Unload bike from jack, unload from front stand. (1 mins)

5. Remove shield from old shock and attach to new one, optional (2 mins)

check your sag, test ride
 
Better hang up the rear or put a block between the tire and the rear frame...

If none works at all, the exhaust setup is pretty strong though...
 
Phil - you did a great write-up for me to mount my Bitubo, but I still had the dealer do it since I had a few things to do there. The level 2 Duc mechanic did exactly what jyli19 describes in the OP. He used a piece of plywood under a car jack that fit the entire width of the brace between the two exhausts about 2-3 inches back from the front part of the can. I watched it come up and there was no movement at all in the exhaust or any other part of the bike. I think it may actually be designed as a factory lift point it seemed so rigid.

BTW - my Bitubo XXF61 from Bellissimoto.com is so awesom, I just ordered the Bitubo ECH-29 Nitrogen-charged fork cartridges. And, I just worked a deal with Randy for the new Rotobox RBX2 Carbon Fiber wheels! All to come in a new post...
 
JeffD said:
Phil - you did a great write-up for me to mount my Bitubo, but I still had the dealer do it since I had a few things to do there. The level 2 Duc mechanic did exactly what jyli19 describes in the OP. He used a piece of plywood under a car jack that fit the entire width of the brace between the two exhausts about 2-3 inches back from the front part of the can. I watched it come up and there was no movement at all in the exhaust or any other part of the bike. I think it may actually be designed as a factory lift point it seemed so rigid.

BTW - my Bitubo XXF61 from Bellissimoto.com is so awesom, I just ordered the Bitubo ECH-29 Nitrogen-charged fork cartridges. And, I just worked a deal with Randy for the new Rotobox RBX2 Carbon Fiber wheels! All to come in a new post...
Click to expand...

Jeff.
We have to catch up this week. Thursday bike night at the sandwich bar?
 
Yes, it awesome on this bike : 3 hours to put the belly can and 10 minutes to swap the shock...

My choice a TTX markII!

mpub.jpg
 
More regular between start and end of the track session.

And i think the set up is finest for the tyre life. ;)
 
littlejohn said:
What does the TTX MkII have over the stock OE unit?
Click to expand...

I couldn't get the OE unit on my base to work correctly....though I'm a bit larger than most Panigale owners. The Ohlins worked well out of the box and better with a bit of tweaking.

I think Ducati missed the boat with its OE damping rates.
 
The OE unit may work for somebody, but definitely not everybody. What the Ohlins does is the range of adjustability, clicks that your can feel, so you can dial it in the way to your liking. The Sach OE unit on the base was so bad, i can twist the adjuster all the way in or out without knowing which is which.
 
Cloner said:
I couldn't get the OE unit on my base to work correctly....though I'm a bit larger than most Panigale owners. The Ohlins worked well out of the box and better with a bit of tweaking.

I think Ducati missed the boat with its OE damping rates.
Click to expand...

jyli19 said:
The OE unit may work for somebody, but definitely not everybody. What the Ohlins does is the range of adjustability, clicks that your can feel, so you can dial it in the way to your liking. The Sach OE unit on the base was so bad, i can twist the adjuster all the way in or out without knowing which is which.
Click to expand...

If it's just damping, then surely going to a suspension specialist to get the OE unit re-valved is much cheaper and better than buying a whole new unit.

If the MkII has new more advanced damping circuits, then I could understand...
 
The lowest part of the engine actually sticks out below the exhaust so a piece if wood and a jack work fine. With the "S" model you will need to lift or remove the fuel tank to unplug the wires from the shock.
 
Can i just install my new ttxgp shock right out of the box and let the suspension guy adjust it or do i need to change the length at install? If so do i copy the oem sucks shock?
 
I found this to be an effective way of removing weight of the rear shock. I only moved the linkage to 'P' due to the occasional passenger but the need to remove the weight off the rear suspension is the same as when replacing the rear shock.
 

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BurnCycle said:
I found this to be an effective way of removing weight of the rear shock. I only moved the linkage to 'P' due to the occasional passenger but the need to remove the weight off the rear suspension is the same as when replacing the rear shock.
Click to expand...

Just jack it up enough to take the weight off the suspension correct?
 
I just used a ratcheting nylon strap and a rafter in the garage. Lift the bike by wrapping it around the subframe.
 

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